MY1PATH

Don't hold me liable if you do it and its hard to find hardened washers in varying thickness so you may have to use a single standard washer to match the EXACT thickness of the existing shims. Locktite won't hurt as long as its not permenant locking. the key is your 80 ftlbs of torqe and having enough threads engaged to sustain that torque.

I think its all gravy for a High temp VG with 28lbs of boost and a big cam trying to push 280+HP. the plenum spacer might be some benifit. Email the guy and see if its compatible with a "pathfinder manifold swap" or just tell him you have a pathy and you want to know if its worked for somone with the swap. I can't remember his name but he was very helpful and eager to help when I had questions for him. The cam gears on the other hand would be Very worthwhile esp if you had a cam that already had the intake advanced more than the exhaust.(JWT, NisMo & early Z for certain prolly others as well I just don't have specs to prove it.)

I thought nissan matic-d was being phased out but the PN was being used for a newer (incompatible) fluid I would be weary of that, incase you get the wrong stuff. I would also just stick with DEX 3, its affordable, its simple and its been working fine for many people. any AT owners wanna chime in?

x3

I think it is! I think flex and compress more @ that thickness which would allow the bolt to back out and then they all flip upside down and fall out.....I use vayring thicknesses of hardened washers. If you have dumpped your shims you will feel a bump every time you step on the brake, thats the UCA spindle sliding up and down the bolt.

well the 2 TBI injectors will run a 3.3 swap and still have more to give. 3.3 swaps have been done with the 3.0 MPFI injectors as well with no issues. A mild cam and low rpms on a V6 are not gonna warrant it so save your $$$ for other things (like ajustable cam gears)

x2 there is a gear driven pump that shoots oil @ that very location.

I'm sure many people are actually beyond the 3/8" limit. The Calmini puts me about 2.5" & right @ the limit. Then I had BJ spacers made using .25" total thickness right now but I might go up to .375" if I do a diff drop and that gave me a little more. Warning BJ spacers of 1" and 1/2" have done some serious damge to stock uca's. I can't recall any incidents with aftermarket UCA's but it is possible especially if it sees allot of trail. BJ spacers also increase Maximum drop which is hard on CV's That said, the Calmini UCA's are pretty beefy so I don't have much concern running a spacer.

Schneider said they will do my custom spec. as seen in the attched below. However, I hate it when I ask 5 questions and only get one answered. "same price" by the way is $224.99

not quite, @ least for the mechanical units (up to 93). gear ratio and tire ratio must be considered... this list should get you close. 4.36 and 31's is a 17 - 4.63 and 31's is an 18 4.36 and 30's is an 18 - 4.63 and 30's is a 19 4.36 and 235/75r15 or 70r15 is 20 but with 4.63 its 21 and if you had tiny little 205/75r15... I dono maybe there is a 22...

when your camber goes negitive(top inward from lifting) your toe goes out becuase the top center of the knuckle leans in but the TRE pushes the point foward of that outward. The nissan spec says that if more than 3/8" of shims are required the vehicle should be lowered untill alignment can be acheived with 3/8" or less. this keeps enought threads in your frame with the stock bolts 3/8-1/2" of shims I recomend getting 60mm bolts. less than 3/8 use 55mm bolts or it will bottom out (stock is 50mm +3mm pilot tip) I strongly reccomend keeping to the 3/8 or less rule. besides whats wrong with a little more downtravel to soak up the dips and yes slopply steering makes alignment difficlut because they may get a diffearnt reading each time they put it on the rack. the same applies to balljoints and in extreme cases strut rod bushings.

I wouldn't go to mechanic for that... off by 9MPH @ what speed?Ex if your going 69 the speedo says 60 and if your going 35 the speedo says 30 thats the speedo gear, an easy fix the speedo gear comes right out and one with differant tooth count pops right in. they range from 17-21 teeth, I think 17or18 would correct the example above if you had a 20 or 21 tell me your tire size and gear ratio and I can narrow down what you should have.... If its always 9mph fast no matter what the speed its the needle just pull it off and re-postion it (be careful! they are brittle and so is the clear plasic over the guages)

lets put it this way, when visiting my laws I found a dirt lot where some guys had used and earth mover to make some quad jumps. I dono if you know what doubles are but its a jump with a gap before the landing and these gaps were as wide as the pathy.... Yup!My pathy was bone stock @ the time and I went jumping and it was fun! Now the thing about well made jumps is there is a definte side to jump from becuase it has a lip that pushes you upward so you can reach the landing. well I got cocky and hit the landing side and fell short of clearing the gap. I slammed into the backside of the lip and once the suspension rebounded I lumberd over it. tucked up bumper, crooked headlight but it still felt fine driving 700 miles home the next day. How's that for durabilty? Now I wouldn't reccomend being that hard on it on a daily basis without proper mods you get the idea... Hit a few trails, cross water no higer than the bumper, avoid seriously off-camber paths and climbs where the terrain makes a V shape pushing in on the wheels and you should be able to maintian your daily driver just fine.

any 15" 6 bolt 5.5" pattern with 3.5"-4.25" back spacing and 7"-10" wide But for the Ideal fit, 3.75"-4" back spacing 7"-8" wide these are found on on w/d22 xterras & frontiers , w/d21 pathfinders and pickups, r50 pathfinders.... aloso found on toyotas but you need hubcentric adapters or to properly countersing the holes to a proper lug-centric seat.

I just thought to check this today (2 years later lol) no matter where the timing is set it advances +30degrees @ 4500rpm (VG30i) 15BTDC->45 @ 4500rpm 12BTDC->42 @ 4500rpm 10BTDC->40 @ 4500rpm I did some research and the vg30e and vg33e ecu will comensate if the base timing is not 15. So by the time you reach your power band the advance will be the same unelss you have turned the cap beyond the ecu's ablity to compensate (which may cause other problems)

Further more Bosch is a japanse brand. I just installed a bosch capa and rotor and it is allot nicer than the neighoff set I had before. The plastic moldings were allot nicer the terminals were more solid and the sockets for the wires were machined and srewed in instead of stamped and pressed in. the Bosch Has BOSCH laser cut into the top of the cap and says made in japan on the inside. the Neighoff just says made in usa and looks cheap compared to the bosch. that and some NGK V-Powers.... Runs great now!

final update, on the way back I "took a wrong turn" @ 101 and enjoied an extra 100 miles of windy roads no breakages!

If Delta falls thru... (I'm thinking they won't do what I want as I'm already having trouble comunicating with them) I may go with the Schneider 256-H or see if Schneider will do my custom spec.... or spend big bucks on the NisMo #1 cam (255/256 .425/.245)

I'd be curious to see... If you put your ecu in AFR mode if it thinks you are running lean becase its only getting reading off one manifold. I have heard that our Heated-type o2 sensors need a reading from both manifolds going by it and need to be close to the manifolds as possible to get an accurate reading but I wonder how much truth is really in that. maybe you can bust a myth for me....

I'm pretty sure the stock injectors will be fine for a mild cam. larger injectors are typically used for Blown motors were the ammount of air forced in is beyond the stock ability to maintain AFR. you might also consider the 256-H grind from Schneider. It may be very similar to the Nismo #1 cam but @ about 1/2 the cost I think it will produce the closest to what we are looking for. If Delta falls thru I may go with the 256-H or see if Schneider will do my custom spec....

where's the o2 sesor now? is it running off only one manifold now? how's it run?

260/260 .420 is mild depending on how they degree your events It should be a decen cam with power near @ 2k rpm. similar can also be expected of the 256/256 .425 again dependig on degreeing The 264/264 .392 should produce a decent Idle because of its low lift. tho this cam tagets good Idle but kicks in high (3-3.5k rpm iirc) it will actually be very decent as far a longevity becase the short lift and long duration give it lobes that are not as sharp so they wear slower. All the cams you listed should last fine in your engine, if it were me I would go with one of the first 2 or you can wait and see how my custom grind turns out and buy a set of those thru me.

so if Mat does develop a lighter track and for some freak reason its under 10k will you be buying Mat's Tracks? they'd still be pretty heavy wouldn't they?

SO I sent my info to a Bad e-mail adress @ delta cams... Just got off the phone with them today after giving my specs one last look over. their price has gone up in the last 4 years, "125 a stick" so thats $250+tax. For me thats still a better price because I'm not paying for shipping and for all you others out there its still pretty competive. I added 252/254 spec sheet in case they don't like my .5 degee increment on the lobe center. Delta Camshaft welds up the cams before grinding so lobe centers can be ajusted allot more than other re-grinders. This process also makes it so they don't have to take any material off the base of the cam so lifter life is impoved over other re-grinds.

Calmini steering $629.95 Strong & durable but uses differant TRE's (+ extra @each end of the CL) and the older idler bushings used to wear out pre-maturely. http://purenissan.co...21_steering.htm HooHaa CL $229.00 + Dual steering box Mod $25-45 Jy parts (less than 1/2 the price of calmini) Upgrades the existing CL to 5/8 spherical busings and retains use of stock TRE's 2nd steering box elimates the Idler arm weakness since it rotates on a 1" shaft supported by 3 sets of needle bearings. This combineation is IMO the strongest and most reliable option available and you can replace your TRE's @ any auto shop becase it will be and original PN. http://purenissan.co...21_steering.htm http://ruggedrocksof...php?topic=908.0