MY1PATH

3.70 gears for a pathfinder? I never said they were all gone, I just said allot of them were gone.

after changing vacuum lines check out my TBI info page in the pinned section. the little thermo sensor under the dome shaped cap loses its setting as the metal fatigues. Ajustments in 1/8 turn increments make a big differance. You need to close the hood to let it heat properly. the proper setting is for it to completly close the valve to the stove pipe when the intake is almost hot to the touch. Messing with it won't ruin your engine it just changes how your engine warms up and restricts how freely your engine breathes when its open. I often leave that vaccum line plugged in the summer and when crossing water since warm up is not an issue and I don't want it to suck up water.

the winch version has more sutry mounting points higer up.

The euro cams are not nismo cams they are stock for non-USDM. I did inquire about the nismmo #1 and #2 wich were on the catalog at the time and they said not-available. You could try with the springs, ya never know...

I think lift is top of lobe to center minus bottom of lobe to center. thats how re-grounds make more lift without adding material. they just subtract from the low side.

my guess is that if it is the tranny itself, the damage was already done before you got it and putting the cooler on just helped it last a little longer. x2 on checking the TC first. check all the basics. Might I also recomend a superior shift transmission kit go into the replacement. It seems like a pretty simple install and its designed to correct the errors known to be common with a high mile tranny

do they still exist? allot of that wd21 nismo stuff is discontinued. (CAMS, fenders, swaybars, headders, exhaust systems, brush guards... all gone)

so what page are you seeing this Cam lift spec? On EM48 it stateds standard lobe height of 1.5566-1.5641 It is also known that the actual lift of the 3.0 cam is 0.393 and 0.366 for the 3.3 the eurospec has the same lift but with a longer duration. It behaves like stock but it keeps pulling where the USDM would start to fizzle out.

I love it, ppl can depend on me for rides, I pull idiots off the side of the road. I show up to work on time and get to hear about how so&so can't get their 2wd pickup outa the driveway... its fun stuff, drifting in snow, attempting to climb snow banks etc...

Do you have any products like Rain-X over there? wipe your windows with that and you'll have less fog. Or if your cheap, smear you windows with a THICK dish soap solution and whipe it off with a dry towel. I used to do this in locker/bath room mirrors to keep kids from drawing obcenities in the fog.

May I reccomend getting some XJ 3" lift springs from rough country($120) and cutting the pigtail off. Their spring rate is nearly Identical to the stock pathfinder and will offer a stock feeling ride that is 3" taller. I really like mine but some would rather have a stiffer ride for load hadling characteristics. All other rear lift options (Grand Cherokee, Ford, 4x4 parts, calmini, emu etc...) all have stiffer spring-rates than stock.

maybe your coolant is low. When its low you get air in the tubes that circulate fromt the heater core to back to your radiator because these are the higest ones. Open air relief plug (found on rear drivers side of intake manifold) and Top off your coolant to 1/4" below the fill neck. Replace relief plug and Run your engine with the radiator cap off while looking thru the fill neck. Top off as needed so that you can always see fluid above the core. Wait for thermostat to open, you will know it is because the upper hose will heat up and you will see the fluid rushing by the neck. shut off engine,Top off your coolant to just below the overflow hose and pump the upper hose with your hand to relive air. Replace cap. Process can be repeated but it usually only takes once time unless the heater core has been replaced or emptied. I had the same problem and that is how I fixed yesterday. My wifes 94 had the same problem but it was because it was like 80% water so I re-filled it with 50/50. Now both my Pathfinders have nice hot air as soon as the needle starts to lift above the cold mark. Also, for cold climates you can run up to 75% coolant to help the engine retain more heat because "coolant" does not cool as well as water.

E-bay and junkyards... they are often called fender liners and sometimes called "inner fender"

X2 on the cold Idle settings and coolant sensors + check your "stove pipe" its a intake heater hose that draws hot air from arround your exhaust manifold.

FYI "exteral spring compressors" are called strut compressors because you cannot fit a compressor inside a strut.

I guess I'm pullin the cluser and checking my "OD OFF" bulb

If your looking for compare any compatible Billet kit will do. They have some on summitracing. Here are 2 parts my wish list on summit. (not sold as a kit) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-2178ERL/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-1178ERL/ I think Earl was one of the first to start making "afordable" billet adapters years ago(after my cast one failed) I'm sure you can find cheaper ones that work just as good... *searches*

Oh certainly, the cast units will work. I just don't recomend the one I got because my case was worse than any others I seen and I prefer the Billet ones. The one I had didn't have any areas machined out or enginered into the casting for tooling so when it was as tight as I could get it by hand and still dripped(Oring was oiled and had not torn) I grabbed one of the webbs with a wrench to put another 1/4 turn on it and the web snapped right off and a hairline crack appeared following one of the casting seams That was a no go for me and more webbs broke trying to remove it to replace it...

Also more blow by gasses which means more oil in your PCV lines. and hey again, contributes to the smoke factor. Maybe its not such a dramatic effect with our 9:1 VG's But other Higher compression engine can get this pretty bad tho...

I'd wait for a Claibrated speedo before you go boasting MPG. If your speedo is 5 mph off at 60 then your trip meter will say say 65 after only going 5 miles and that accounts for ~1.25 mpg gain if you were getting ~15 before. I'm not saying you gained or didn't I'm just saying its hard to verify the accuracy. you can get new gears for your speed sensor at the dealer or you can by an electronic calibration chip for like 40 bucks and wire it in yourself.

TC that is a nice flex shot! And1 for IFS I would venture to put one of those up for TOTM...

yes, but you did that and you were ok with it right. The PO had her work done by "professional mechanics" for the last 15 years (big pile of recipts to proove it) Its one thing to do something getto in your home garage its another thing when you let $#!t like screwed up dizzy's and pry-bar alternator belts leave your shop thinking your coustomer will none the wiser...

I'm sure the ports match its the same engine. I think I heard some time ago about somone putting G35 headders on a murano. I'm sure the job was custom but you've got a start, even if you have to cut and relocate 1 or 2 pipes you still have a headder plate that bolts to you head.

Did the TD use the same tranny as the KA?

My E-AT switch lights up an orange square on the swithc when its on but is there Is there a power shift Light on the dash? Maybe the bulb is out... Speaking of out bulbs Do these rigs also have an "overdrive off" light in the dash? this is for my 94, I may add an OD light if it doesn't have one. P.S. I like your hide able sig.