MY1PATH

Oh no, $500 is one hell of a deal! Too good of a deal to pass up. I was originally going to turn it. service the SC and sell the whole 'Kit" for $2k and use the money to build the block into a 10:1 3.3 Then I decided I wanted a toy and that if I found another deal that good I would turn that one. Then I found a NIB short block so that got turned into a long block quick and the ER block can get rebuilt for something bigger in the future. Now that one in Phoenix Gilbert CL is a good deal but the stuffs all modified, no problem if it fits your plans and there are enough parts to make your intake work so all you need to source it the bet drive.

yeah, he can add at a cost EGR to anyone that requests but he is not paying 10k per product for the cert because he will never make and sell enough to CA customers to earn that 10k back. Right now he only has enough parts to make 2 more sets and then he is probably done with pathy headers. Contact him via his website if you are serious about buying. BTW my thorleys are almost here, I guess I'll get actual measurements my self...

The way see it, just because you can see through it does not mean it flows better. The thing about perforated core mufflers is that hot exhaust gasses expand through the perforations and when the expand they cool and slow down. Then the next exhaust pulse slams into the back of the cooling expanding one and also slows down. All these pulses expand through the core but must eventually contract again at the other end where they are competing for space with the remaining gasses the did not fully expand through the core. This action interrupts your scavenging which relies on High exhaust pulse velocity to create a vacuum at the collector to pull the next pulse behind it and thus draw more air into the engine during the valve overlap period. Baffle mufflers, when the baffles a sized correctly, keep the gasses from expanding too much and keep the velocity up. There are MANY different baffle designs some are very restrictive (OE and OE replacements) and some flow pretty well. Of course, good baffles like flowmaster and Perforated core/ glass packs both flow way better than stock and the flow difference between the two styles is not anything you will notice in the seat of your pants on a daily street driver so go with the sound that pleases you most! I love the sound inside and out of my magnaflow with a turn down . My other pathy has a FM50 which is quieter at idle and sounds great from the driver seat and all around outside but it has a bad drone in the back seat at about 2800-3k but I think that may be due to it having such a steep transition to the stock tailpipe.

they go for allot but if you already have an VG33ER and your looking for a replacement because you are too dumb to service your own Eaton M62 you buy one of those allot of them also require a core charge. I've seen a COMPLETE setup go for $2k But I've also got my hands on complete ER minus A/C compressor for $500. Oddly, the heads milled and put on a NIB 3.3(10:1), the SC is sitting in a safe place and the ER block is gathering rust.

Here's how to get the wires and vacuum line up there. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34808-vacuum-gauge-install-fuel-saver-style/?hl=vacuum

I say its a bum deal because all your getting is the charger. you still have to source the upper intake bowl, the lower intake manifold (it is different), the intake tube, the throttle body and the 3 support brackets for the intake tube. IF all that was included THEN it would be worth it IMO. Sorry to rain on your parade but $400 for an incomplete part, you might spend up to a grand completing it and then another few hundred for tensioner pulleys accessory brackets and an ER a/c compressor which needs custom A/C lines to work with a pathy. I happen to have all of the above except for the compressor and custom A/C lines. Yes, I am close to supercharging. P.S. I would not run the SC on a 3.0. the crank snout is smaller and adding an SC puts allot of load on it. Not to mention, if you use a 3.3 the ER crank pulley fits perfect and the larger snout is strong enough.

I've been through a few, the little tabs crack or shear off sometimes and then they rattle. Never tore one off or completely destroyed one, just the ears that hold em on are the weak point.

I think the Nissan Forklift is Propane. There maybe be significant differences in pistons and "injection" etc

Don't know what all your doing but since your radiator and A/C will be disconnected; you could remove the core support and slide the boddy straight back so you don't have to lift it as high.

i miss zeros when I'm falling asleep. can you fix it?

Used OEM D22 Frontier ended up being my solution. It started off at 24.6 and ended at 24.2 once it was all cleaned up and hard spots removed...

So here is my USED OEM D22 Frontier flywheel all cleaned up. It started off at 24.6 and ended at 24.2 once it was all cleaned up and hard spots removed... 0.20" was machined off of it to get all the hard spots off and all the rust was sandblasted off the back side. It Lost about 6 oz doing all this.

I the end, it will all be fine, I just wanted confirmation on the clamp size before my set shows up.

The collector is where all the primaries meet not where it meets the rest of the exhaust. so its going 1.5" primaries (x3) ---> 2.5" collector---> 2" down/crossover pipes ---> 2.5" Y pipe. David pointed this out to me He REALLY doesn't like it lol. On the other hand, I can see how a reduction in diameter (usually .25" not .50") keeps velocity up until the merge with the other bank.

my longtubes are 2.25" crosover from 2.25" collector. the short tubes are 2.0" crosover from 2.5" collector. Its ruducing a whole 0.5"

Last weekend I drilled out the upper pin on the wifes 93 and punched it out. Pans changed and I had to put it back together so I sanded the rust off the pin and brushed out inside the busshings and knocked the old pin back in with fresh grease. It was tight before, now it feels like new (for now). At least the upper one is ready to come out again when I decided to do the lower and all 4 bushings.

That part that comes up is a 2" Lap Joint Clamp... So the crossover pipe is 2"? that's kind of a step down considering the collectors are listed as 2.5"

I think they are called NEO3. Flipping tiny! http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/instrument-cluster-gauge/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,NEO3,21,241:

My Vg33 Does not have it. but then again the filter is up front. Both my VG30 have it.

Well summit was straight honest with me, I emailed before buying and they got out the scale and said their listing was wrong. Your best bet is to find a Used VG33 flywheel from a frontier or xterra. They are 25 lbs oem, a little less after 200k miles but still over 23lbs once you have had one resurfaced.

Well, the added beifit being a dual sunshade as well. I forgot all about those, I wonder if that R50 is still in the JY.

If anybody is interested, I can do REAL before and after Dyno's on my 3.3 swap so people have an idea of expected gains for my kind of swap. Taken with a grain of salt, not all dynometers are the same. SOME have been referenced as higher or lower than other machines down the street. (up to 20hp difference on big muscle cars).

When i was 5 I would sit in my dads lap and shift gears in parking lots, we were acutally driving when I did this and the 89 was brand new. So I guess I've been driving this pathfinder for 23 years! Its aproaching 270k the engine has been overheated a few times and fuel flooded real bad lots of times but it still runs good enough.

Bosch and NTK o2 are the best ones you can buy. I think they also cost the most...

Custom tranny gears? I must have missed that one, I thought he just swapped 5th gear and got taller Diff gears. The 30A had a few different gear ratios over the years. Once I make enough power to use 5th more often think I want to install a higher 5th out of a newer 30A transmission. Oh, documentation, I can't forget that; nicoclub.com/fsm 94PF MT section SDS and 02X MT section SDS.