MY1PATH

Could over filling with oil cause this problem?

I think a 18mm spark-plug non-fouler woud work. just drill it out and weld it on the pipe where you reamed the old one out, the threads should be the same. Available at your local automotive store. Spark Plug Non Fouler PN 42009 made my "HELP!" auto repair parts Not my Pictures, just a sample of somone elses o2 seonsor work.

take some measurements and then get a magnaflow from summitracing.com

/\ yeh what he said x2 The second biggest downside I see to having variable ride height is that the srping rate may not be consistant at all. I can see it very easly turning out too soft in lowered mode, when you want it stiff for on road driving and too stiff in raised mode, when you want it softer so that it does not break the terrain loose under you. also what will it do do your articulation? IMHO creating a variable ride hight system for a pathy is no siple task (due to IFS) and creating one that behaves apropiately in all conditons would be a very advanced and likely expensive system. but if you want to tackle it I suggest you start with; a SAS or Re-design your IFS so that both control arms are mounted on a single vertical axis and are exactly equal in length from pivot to ball joint top and bottom. this will make your camber stay the same. and both control arms would have maintain caster w/o the use of a compression/tensoin rod. sorry to sound descouraging, I'm just trying to think about it realisticaly. If you can make it work (and not blow$$$$ and find a simpler answer)than make it work. But I'd hate to see somone do all that kinda work & $$$$ and have it not turn out the way they wanted.

this thing is going to be A BEAST!!! a pathy w/ 250ftlbs of torque @ the crank and under 3000RPM. Your awesome because your pathy will become more awesome.

I sopose the phantom grille from AC's could be made to work with the pathy if the bars where the lights go get trimmed off. I bet It would still look pretty good to. I just wouldn't really be phantom anymore cause the lights are visible. And On that note this weekend I trimed a HB grille to fit my pathy lights cause it was the cheapest grille I could find (was sporting chiken wire for a while)and I like the "v"style grille better. I did not do the headlight conversion because I already have $$$ invested in the existing style lights. I think it looks pretty good, I gotta make a filler piece to hide the gaps above the lights (HB lights sit about 1" higer) but I will post pix here after thats done.

ditto I like the idea but; I think I read about a few ppl doing this on differant forums(can't remember which) and I think their biggest problem was heat. the 350 block is so big that even pushed against the firewall it did not leave enough room behind the radiaor for anykind of fan to effectively move air. I'll see if I can find where I read that...

so are you gonna do it? what happened?

your bolt spacing is 6 on 5.5; that is 6lugs and a 5.5" bolt circle diameter. I think the frontier wheels are the same but the backspacing(distance from back of wheel to bolt surface) may be differant. if it is too much greater than what you have now (and I'm guessing it is) your wheels might rub the frame and if is is too much less than what you have now your wheels might rub your body/fenders. maybe somone w/ a frontier will pipe up about what their backspacing is. IMO I think on and IFS pathy its best to stay between 3.625"-4" backspacing with rims no wider than 8.5"

where did you get the poly from?

IMO manual windows never seem to fail. If this is you 1st gen pathy were talking about you might find a manual window from an older JY pathy or HB I think it should just swap over. as far as power windows go I have replaced both of mine; the problem (both times) was that there is a nylon slider on top the window track that a cable goes thru to pull the window up. every time the window is used the slide gets worn down by the cable untill 15-20 years down the road it starts dragging and then it breaks. when it does the motor eats up the extra slack (since it is nolonger being held up by the slide), gets tangled and jams. If you keep trying to work it the motor burns up but most replacements come with the motor anyway(pain trying to untagle and mount to new track). The dealer wanted 50 for a track and 80 for a motor to go wiht it and I belive its the same as original. I got my motor and track off e-bay for $60 and it has a pulley up top instead of a slide. the install was a tad tricky getting the window to line up with the new track while reacing arround inside the door but it runs allot smoother and I doubt it will ever break again because of the pulley design. edit: Here ya go! E-bay; CarpartsWholesale same guys I bought mine from

I've tried many diamters and settled with 2"-2.25" myself. I thought the combination of 2.5" and headers was just too much and when I reduced it I felt a little improvement in my low rpm range and no differance in the other ranges.

theres also another screw; when your engine is "in warm up" there should be a fast-idle-cam with 2 tick-marks on it pushing down on your throttle. the screw grimgreg was talking about ajusts how much it increases your warmup idle. there is a smaller (flathead IIRC) screw toward the top of this cam where its actuator is, this screw sets the temperature that the fast-idle-cam starts to back off. Hope that solves it.

rolling down a hill in neutral and with the aerodynmic profile of a brick my pathy will still maintain 60ish untill the ground flattens out

I read on AC's forms about modifying the steeing pump to get more preassure & flow on deamand. I think they mostly do it for hydro assist but it could help the stock steering system if you don't go overkill w/ it.

I think the key term we want here is torque and I'll agree that its harder to get low end torque I hear turbo and I think high rev hig hp street fast etc...but forced induction can put power in the low end if its a super-charger because it is always on does not need "spool time" You may think that a the mods you looked @ individually dont do much, but remeber that all mods effect eachother and add up more when there are other mods already in place. For example; lets say you have to vg30's 1 stock and one with headders. the stock one puts out 150hp and the one with headders puts out almost 160hp. now throw the same cam in both of them. the stock vg30 gained 15hp but the one with headers gained 18hp. In this scenario (using fictional numbers for gains) you can see how mods may interact with eachother for a few more gains. And the gains get bigger the more mods you have that work well together. IMO I think a modest cam, cam-gears, headders and full exhaust running single pipe with 2.0 pipe or 2.25" pipe max (esp w/ headders too big and you'll lose bottom end), a decent intake mod (simple as a k&N if u like) and maybe an MSD Ignition box all working together would give you more than just a "fractional power increase" I think it might surprise you. My thorley headers made a noticable differance as well as full exhaust (I have also been getting better mpg too) and the rest of those mods I'm holding off on untill I do a 3.3 swap.

IIRC ppl had the most problems with the 1" and I'd have to search but I don't recall any instances with the .5". the page states "Will require maximum torsion bar re-indexing" I don't think its so much the ball joint position as it is keeping the uca closer to the stock angle while lowering the LCA so that it does not throw off your camber as much. I had .25" spacers water-jet-cut out of stainless steel. After I installed them, The alignment shop said they had an easier time getting the camber to spec and that they had to use less shims to do so.

Nismojunky I think your sig. is a little tall

x2 A stabilizer will make the wheel harder to turn quickly because it stiffens up against sudden movements. my steering feels heavier under sudden movements I don't know if thats sopposed to dampen a dangerous jerkreaction or if its just mine.

I'd like to know why not? If a 98 3.3L will go into a 95 & older 3.0L; the bell should bolt up so what won't... Is the hump on the wd21 not big enough for the r50 tranny? Shifter in a differant spot? x-fer-case on the wrong side? spline counts? tell me if you know.

I guess you haven't snooped much of the z31 forums have ya. the stock vg30 bottom end is bullet proof coming with forged internals and rated up to 600hp stock. these motors have been pushed very hard in other vehlicles, don't let the pathfinder/pickup shell fool you. It may cost a bit but the is hope. http://www.vg30et.com/ http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/2N6VG30.html http://z31.com just look for stuff that worked for the Z31; cam-gears, cams, ecu, z31 heads... we've got more room in our engine bays than the z31. ok srry to rant. I just don't want ppl thinking its totally hopless, its not cheap either but things can be done.

I cut about 1/8 off of each side of the round piece so i could put a crecent wrench over it.

DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! Ok srry, that sounds really exciting!!! And I wanna see what that motor does in a smaller lighter vehicle. 3.3 into a w/d21 has been done a few times and I think it seems semi straight foward for the mechanically inclined (esp if the 3.3 comes with alt, pump, and a/c compressor) everything else bolts up from what I've read.Good luck with the wireing and don't forget to swap over your throwout bearing as the manual tranny bearing is differant from the auto. You'll be the first I've seen to do a 3.3sc swap! EDIT; keep us posted!

use the search function "JCG coil" and other variants, Its a popular "poor mans lift" and has been coverd several time here theres prolly even a how-to with pictures. The t-bars ajust with 19mm wrenches and there is aloso a write-up on that here if you search.

"when aimed correctly"? are they harder to aim? narrower or wider beam? I know the lights on my dodge stratus have such a wide beam that its impossible to find the "center"of the light on a wall to aim them. Its not like that is it?