MY1PATH

I don't think I did specifically, but I do belive I had pitures and Info showing my Aftermarket Lights and how I adapted An HB grille to fit them. The headlights were all over the place ON ebay. All kinds of ppl claiming theirs is better than the other but the truth is they are the same, made by the same company(eagle I think) and sold under differant labels. If you can't find em anymore have you considerd an HB ligth conversion? V I THINK The Square sealed beam headligt is a common one used on many older vehicles. I THINK Hella Makes a comosite replacement for those. I don't think its vechle specific, but more like beam-type specific(fits many vehicles) I used a HELLA Double relay from summit racing so that 1 relay is for high and the other is for low. I ran the relays off the passenger headlight wires and taped off the old driverside ones.

there is a drain hoses for the sunroof, you may want to pull your headliner and interior trim to check that out too. I think they run from the corners down thru the a-pilar but im not sure. cloged, or cracked will cause cabin wetness on a rainy day

there are composite housings for the hardbody and they use H4 combination bulbs(high/low beams in one) These are a good choice for lighting however, I do not reccomend going HID. a conventional hallogen bulb emits light in all directions evenly, the corrosponding reflector is designed to emit a light pattern based on this light output. A HID bulb emits light outward in an arc, when used in a hallogen fixture not as much light is directed correctly back @ the reflector. The result is a beam that comes from a brighter bulb and looks brighter to oncoming traffic but is not really much more effective for the divers visibity because the refletor is not designed for that light pattern. Your best bet, Is to get the hardbody composite fixtures, run a good quality high output bulb and wire up a direct battery relay so that your hallogens don'd suffer any voltage drop; stock pathfider wireing only allows about 11.8 or lower voltage to bulbs a direct batery relay allows full battery/ charging voltage to the bulbs (13.4-14 volts) goto check out Daniel Stern Lighting for more info, how-to's and wotnot I have aftermaket euro style pathfinder composite headlights(better beam filtering and pattern than oem) and a direct battery realy. and I am 100% satisfied with my light output, my low beams are more than enough and my friends say my brights are like daylight! HOPE THIS HELPED

yeh my door jamb has info for 29" tires but I know for a fact my dad bought it new with 31" the tire size is listed wrong but they put a "disreguard prevous label" sticker in there with appropriate PSI ratings.

yeh, PM Alkorahil he might be able to help you out...

actally I run conventional(dino?) or blended in my engine. I don't run pure synthetics in the engine for the very reason you said above. It also makes the dipstick easier to read lol

- I considered plastics and composites but shy'd away because I did not want to worry about how the combination of oil & heat would interract with them. also tolerances are not as precise, if you torque dwown on it the shfter bushin might sit too low in the tranny.- HOWEVER, if you could find a hard block of nylon, that would prolly be a good solution. machines easy, good on heat and oil an doesn't compress too much. I belive the shifter bushing and shifter socket are made out of nylon. - SHARE AS MUCH AS YOU LIKE! I searched long and hard b4 doing this and hopefully somone else will not have to. all I ever found for the w/d21 was ppl cuting their handle shorter or using a 240/300zx shifters which are just shorter handles. I did not want a shorter handle to obtain shorter throw, I wanted a shorter degree of throw with the same handle. So I looked into how other vehicles did it and then did it myself.

if you keep it 2wd you can use the 6" IFS kit from total chaos and run the HB glass fenders. that would make a sweet rig for mobin it on rolling hardpack & gravel. make a jumper out of it to...

wow those are some beefy legs on it too. you could prolly take a chunk outa your frame and those would keep it sturdy with no noticeable effects. good work.

I don't like that many hitches are a ground clearance issue and high bumper hitch can cause a high-tounge issue(sability) when towing.(sometimes) getting stuck sux but using a drop ball or other to lower the touge on a trailer is easy. heres what I'm gonna get!

you want one? Material cost is about 80-100 bucks for a 1'x1' bolck of 3/4" or 1" plate aluminum. (thats why I metal bonded scraps together) I can't do too many projects @ work but if you like I can get the material and bring my spacer to a mill shop as a template. If you get 4 ppl in on it... 1x1 is enough to make 4. and then ad the cost of macining and welding (no idea) my guess is a minimum $75 commitment from each person if it turns out to be less then ajustments will be made, if it looks like its gonna be more I'll dbl check w/ ppl b4 proceeding. don't forget the need for cores or spare shifters to be choped and weled. OR if somone on here has the tools @ home (or more feedom @ work) and wants to do it for less they've got all the knowhow from my pictures; make a template and have at it!

AGREED! I can't make sense of how that would work against the tranny, My response to him was; "what killed the tranny was not knowing about the TSB and leaving it underfilled for 190K" not extreme at all, temps running just under half durng the day and about 1/4 @ night and many miles futher north where the nights are even colder. I mean comon, it only moved a quarter if not less it was from the tranny, only 5th gear @ any rpm. It may have beeen a fluke but it got quieter when I added oil to the engine. maybe a full oil pan absorbs noise/vibration from the tranny. Its actually due for one, I think I'm going to use a "high mileage"oil designed for old seals to slow it untill I find the leak. thanks for the input yall

It hasn't leaked noticably in town, I think 1-2 hrs @ 4,000 RPM made it go so fast

UPDATE: over 15,000 miles. 700+ nonstop(cept 4 gas) on the way down I'm really happy with it

I got back to washington last night, no major issues. I had the chance to meet B, good guy!, while I was in cali. We talked about the probem and looked under the vehicle. we found lots of oil on the frontside of everying. something was leaking pretty bad. At first we thought it was the overflill of my tranny leaking from my shifter(I hadn't sealed it) but I checked my engine oil @ my inlaws and it was low.After my first Qt I thought ok, so i burn oil now... and the 2nd I thought i blew a seal. the noise also went away; I'm thinking maybe when the oil gets below a certain level it magnifies the noise of 5th gear(the overdive box is in the front of the tranny right?) DOES THAT MAKE ANY SENSE? well roughly 700miles and another 3 more qts of oil later I'm back in washington. I notieced in spits of higer rpm(35-43k rpm) and higer engine temps (needle 1/2 way vs 1/4) it leaked a little faster. GAS mileage averaged about 18.5 most the way w/ 2 ppl a dog and a bunch of luggage & holliday gifts, so I guess the only issue would be finding the leak. I read somthing on here about rear-main seals... Is that it? I'm clueless as to whats involved. I'm gonna poke arround in a fewa days for other possible leak llocations; pan-seal, preassure sensor, relo-kit.... anyd insight would be appreciated.

PM sent, were gonna hit the road soon

complete package package rebuild from japan, I think I've put 20-25k on it since it was replaced. right now I'm in morraga but I will be driving up to mendocino today. Dad says the mechanic told him, when he replaced it, that low rpms in high gears is what wore out the old one and "made all the gears loud" I did let the rpms get as low as 1800 b4 downshifting in the hills @ grants pass on the way down but that was 500 miles ago. it didn't start untill I got in and drove yesterday.

Ok, 700 miles from home, the drive to cali was fine. parked for a few days and today when I got on the highway 5th gear was loud. 5th has always made a differant sound but now there is allot of gear noise in the cab only in 5th. I checked the shifer boot to see if sound was leaking arround it and then I pulled the shifter and topped off the oil. I did 5.1L of redline mt90 not too long ago and I thought maybe the synthetic was too thin and slowly leaked... nope, it is very full. I'm gonna have to drive it back north no-matter what, so I guess if its warning of a pobem I'm gonna be forced to encounter it. So now I'm wondering WTF is the problem... any ideas? the facts: tranny is 4 years old Oil level is not low viscocity is correct shift boot does not seem to be leaking the exessive noise

WOW prices went up! I think paid less than 400 for mine.

If your going rhino crazy, I bet it would be good assurance against your windows breaking from a loose stone or branch... seeing, becomes a problem so I haven't done that one yet. you could take the carpet out of the back behind the passenger seats and rhino that, make some metal backs for the bench seat and rhino that too.

as far as highway driving, would there be any noticeable difference between rubber/urethane bushings vs johnny/currie joints? I'd like to switch to Johnny's as long as it doesn't effect my highway/ high speed driving

I am very happy with my thorleys... 50-stat lega!

when I get my alignments done they usually check my TRE's and BJ's, they had noticed when my old CL was getting a little loose and they did not say a thing when I brought it in for another alignment (same week) with the hoohaa installed. and It was pretty obvious, I painted the thing blue b4 installing it.

If you can, I'd say the "easiest repair" route would be to drill and tap to the next size up but I don't know if the UCA will be strong enough after being reamed... wher the bolts go into the frame there is a nut welded to the other side of the frame. I think the "best repair" would be to weld new nuts in place (somehow getting in there sounds like a PITA) as a compromise see about getting helicoil installed for the original size bolt, this will give you new set of threads that will still be very strong.

I reccomend going with a HOOHAA centerlink, the cost is compareable to a new one and it won't wear out like an oem one. It also increased the life of your other steering components. HooHaa CL This is not just a 4x4 steering mod, I reccomend it for anybody who has a nissan pathfinder of pickup, or same steering system etc. it offer smoother road handling, enven compared to a new oem CL and better conrtol everywhere else you go.