MY1PATH

u should take pictures as you do it. It will provide usefull for the next person to change front rotors or studs like you are doing.

the lynch pins I used had a cruved wire intead of squre, I put them back the brackets (on the vehicle) after the seats are out and ocassoinaly use curved wire as tide down points. And sliping a lynch pin in is allot quicker than ligning up a bolt hole.

"and we will part it out or sell it as is. " you could jus hit em up for the bars & guard. buy it and part it yourself or buy it for thos parts, put a tranny in it and sell it for more.

thanks for playing guinea pig on that, let us know if the poly squeaks!

I don't like the design of the AC ones; the way the tube stops @ a gusset for the BJ instead of running all the way to the end and doing away with the gusset. I think the SLR UCA's used to look like that too?

man the rancho spindle is BEEFY! was that meant for fixed camber or would washers go under the ends after the shims were installed? heres calmini so we have more of them together.

and I belive I was corrected to 10 o'clock. full thread here http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=389718

Oh u have dual trip, I just threw one of those away, I'll dig it up, its from a stanza but the only physical differance is the posts for the reset and those can be swapped over.

do you mean the trip meeter or the trip(meter) and odometer? Both are mechanical units run off the spedo cable. If its just the trip your reset button may be stuck. try pulling it gently outward and see if the gears engage and start working again. If not you can pull the cluster out and look I think I have a handfull of spare trip meter parts. maybe even a whole meter 1)bezel; 3 screws under the top of bezel and 2 under the bottom corners. there are 2 hidden snap clips so it POP! off when you pull. Disconnect switches and lights and set bezel aside. 2)culster; 4 very visable screws in each corner. pull straight out and unplug all wires. 3)dissaemble; 6 tabs hold the clear plastic on and 6 tabs hold the frame on(you can actually take the clear plastic and the frame off together) 4) now you just have the white back piece with all the guages, unscrew your spedo FROM THE BACK (so you don't have to mess with the needle) push the unit out and inspect.

when strut rods are as bad as kingmans was(or even a little less); you alignment changes every time you go over a bump. and thats bad for tires. I have rancho 9000's in back and I'm very pleased with them. comfortable on road, but ajustable so you can meet offoroad demands as well.

do they fit thru the stem or did you have to break the bead and put it in that way?

Ok well, I got a hold of some centimatic balencers from a guy on NOR, they should be here next week and I'll see what can be done. I have rear disc to so we'll find out how they are with those calipers too.

I ran the hoses foward around the motormount and then back along the framerail to the tranny x-member where my filter is. doing it this way makes is so the only thing near the headder(i have thorleys)is the adapter that goes into the block.

in 2014 my pathy will be emissions exempt for life! 25 year rule, For cali vehicles at least.

use wd40 to clean up that formula 5, makes quick of sticky situation. then you can use rags and alchol or acetone(if you so desire) to clean up the wd40.

Imo the B!t¢# Is getting the whole thing level again when it keeps t-bars settleing on me.

43252- this inner seal is most important because the outer seal is just for grease and when this leaks it can dilute your grease. 43232- If you trust that this outer seal will keep your thick grease in as long as the inner seal is not leaking then you can leave it alone and this can be a DIY job. Just inject some thick grease thru the bearings with a needle. 4310H- I could not find in a parts store when I did my disc conversion so I used sealant on the flange instead.

so why doesn't my 89 have that?

I think it was about 1200 out the door for 5 of them mounted and balanced. they just did a re-balance for me for free last month.

2 things about the front, if your lifted you can use a longer connecting bolt, hell the energy suspension kit does and if you sleve the center for A pin I see no propblems, If you drilled it when was level then it should go back together when its level.

x2 on the lift ammount. 2.5 keeps everything in working range, I'm a little over that and my cv's bind a little @ full drop. A diff drop kit will be installed in the future to reduce CV angles.

procomp was also in a big lawsuit for their tread coming off or something like that. I've never used em and news of that lawsuit a while back deterred me. However; I have been very happy with my Nokian Vatiiva MT's, a little more expensive but there are plenty-o-tires that will burn bigger holes in your wallet. Click to enlarge

87-95 heldlights are compatible and some hardbody pickuplights were the same as well. they whole assembly from the pickups can be swithced as an option too. Whatever route you go I recomend you do a direct battery relay for the lights and ditch the undersized stock wires. Even with cheap bulbs you will notice more relyable ligting that is brighter as well; http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

my mechanical cluster does not have the electronic regulator. There is an analog 'pulse regulator' (as I call it) inside the cluster. it is a flat spring with a wire arround it that touches set screw. as electricity goes thru the wire it moves away from the set screw. when Not contacting, the fuel and temp go down & it relaxed till it touches the set screw. once contacting the guages go up and it moves away. It does this so frequently that your guages hold thier position rather than go up and down. run some 400 grit between the screw and spring and trun the screw clockwise to increase callibration.

I think its just a matter of preference, and conveinience, people do pay for conveinece... and putting a $50 disc behind each wheel is more convienent than filling each wheel up with airsoft pellets. and is only has to be done once instead of every time new tires are installed(not like thats a big differance but still) Anyway, I got ahold of them; "I want to order your balencers for my '89 pathfinder(4wheel disc). I have heard some years ago that your 300-305 model interfereswith the brake calipers on some vehicles. I see now that your 6 0n 5.5 modelis now 300-556 just wondering if ths has resolved the issue or not. eitherway I'm willing to try it and find some work-arround if need be. Do youaccept paypal? " "THE 300-556 IS MADE IN A DIFFERENT WAY BUT HAS NOT CORRECTED FOR THE FITMENT ISSUEREGARDS JERRY" so probelm not solved...