MY1PATH

the stock CL has a mini BJ on each end of it. these mini BJ's can allow for allot of slop & twisting. HooHaa removes the mini BJ's and replaces them with a stiff sperical bushing utilizing a larger 5/8" thru bolt. I actually replaced a new-ish CL with a HooHaa and STILL felt a good diferance. Soon to come will be my invinsible pitman arm...

get this, I took a steering box off of an early 80's d21 the other day and all the bolts came loose very easily, the box itself dissasembled easliy(so far) and the gear oil in there(manual steering) looked brand new. something so old and not a single seized bolt. Just my luck because I only had tools for a much smaller job and just happened to have a crecent wrench and lug wrench of the right sizes.

when I replaced my tach motor and calibrated it changes were exponetinal. it always stayed near same @ idle but would climb faster or slower thru the rpms as I ajusted the potentieomer screw untill the needle matched my digital pickup. makeing sure it was acureate from idle all the way up to 6k was a very noisy process lol. I would be neat to see if one really could in stock condtion but unlocking the limiter could be expensve (jwt ecu $400) and the cost of failure could be allot more.

I think every nissan with a centerlink stering can benift from a HooHaa CL. Reguardless of where or how you drive it makes things allot smoother. http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

^Also a good information to have

carquest did not have any Last spring when I rebuilt a tx10

Idono, I've never heard anyone claim above 7k on a stock coputer before this thread. Was your tach calibrated? Is it possible an electrical spike or a frequency spike may have caused it to read high just before the shift? It may be possible, maybe I'm wrong. I know people in the z crowd have changed an ecu with valves and springs and reached the 9k range so its not like its toally un-reasonable. just questionable. I know the sound of my engine gets quite differant as i enter the 6k range under load but, 89 tbi, maybe the springs are more worn out or maybe I'm mistaking the sound I hear for something else like 2 injectors trying to keep up with 6cyl going that fast.

so why does the PS pitman need to be used instead of just reversing the existing one?

In my area, sta-lube and royal purple are the only local purchase brands that make a GL-4 spec lube. you are correct, GL5 may contain chemicals that can degrade bras and bronze syncromesh gears found in our transmissions. It will not harm our differentials or our t-cases. But if your t-case fwd seal is worn it will mix with your tranny. the GL4 specifation has a requirement that sreens for those harmfull elements. I just use redline because sta lube in 75w90 is getting harder to find (local vendor now only carries 75w140) and I can order reline directly for less than I can buy royal purple. In fact I just ordered a gallon over the hollidays and it still arrived in 3 days.

I just saw it on PHO looks pretty good: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1525326221.html

B's GF (MallCrawler99) Hope you will have lots of fun with your pathy and happy (early) B-day.

GF, that was one of my guesses after I posted. LOL did she get an R50 for her birthday or was she just screwin arround?

Ok is this real? B knows how to find this kinda stuff! and he signs with an upppercase B and he's already got the better crawler platform having a WD21. what would he want with an R50? gotta be a joke right?

a sales man told me If you've had new tires you might wanna consider new shocks. I think he was implying that the life of a shock is compareable to the life of a 50k tire? personally, I just do the bounce test; push down sharply on one corner if it feels like an unchecked spring they are worn out if it "bounces" noticably or cycles 3 or more times they may be worn if it returns to ride height with very little extra motion they are fine

3.0's and 3.3's come used from japan @ a very low price. ($700-1,200) with 50-80k on them. What happens is in Japen the have inspections every 2 yrs to keep the roads clean if the vehclie has a drip RMS, oil pan, somtimes they don't care they just put in a new engine instead and the nearly new engines get imported to the US where we fix (or don't fix) the leak and install em. I wish you luck and not to be a smart ass but please keep your timing covers on if your get a new VG.

this in really tight reverse turns I can feel my lsd clutches slipping. when I had an extra disc in the LSD the tires would bind and slip instead it was a little bumpy. the other day I felt this again and I checked my diff fluid It was low so I assume this made the friction higher on the lsd causing it to lock up more.

If you're ever gonna fab stuff a 1/4" chuck DotCo's are nearly indepsnible @ my work. you can put a sanding arbor on them for sandwheels, scotchbritewheels and polising discs. or use them with rotary files or any other 1/4" accesory that can tolerate high speeds. We use them for cutting, cleaing, polisihing, hand routing and more. A good Air drill is ruthless and relible if you want to drill heavy stuff. Impact wrenches are very good to have but remember to only use impact in the off direction. and My other personal favorite for inflating,deflating and checking all in one; http://www.amazon.com/Pistol-Grip-Air-Inflator-Easy-Read-Gauge/dp/B000LMKB42/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1UQAF8LMU5GR6&colid=1M98SLUJDGLMJ

My theroy is that a slower bounce comes from fuel cut(still lean vapors to burn) whereas a spark cut would bounce faster(can't burn without igniton)

if your tems sensor things its cold it will continue to foul plugs with a rich mixture, also if you gap your plugs too small they will not spark hot enough to keep clean. (gap= .032")

well not having a timing cover will def lead to belt slipping issues...

yes it will stop for you. but I belive a member here had a belt slip when it was bouncing off the limiter... I think he was in a mudhole of sorts so water may have slicked the belt or maybe being under load did it many others (myself included)have not had anything happen in many similar situations

that was almost 6 hours ago I think you can plug it back in now. It worked for me, did it work for you?

Both would be Ideal, the drop would keep your panhard closer to paralell to the axle which increases its effectiveness and ajustment would allow it to be properly centered if the drop didn't center the axle. then again I been thinking about lifting the axle side of the rod to raise the roll center and make it more stable. I think Packie88 got that idea stuck in my head.

x2