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tmoore4512

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Everything posted by tmoore4512

  1. Exhaust leaking into the cab!!! Wooo hoo!! Its next on my list...fixing the exhaust I mean...I will probably just cut out the rust under my seats, and weld in some sheet metal...under coat it and good to go! My kids have not yet complained though, not that I am waiting till they do...haha
  2. The last picture of your suspension is only partially loading...I think there was some sort of an issue? Maybe on my end... Form and function!!!
  3. Yea, the green O rings are better suited for longer life. Auto Zone sells a multi pack of the rings you will need. Shouldn't be a problem to locate one that will fit.
  4. Okay, so I went out and took some quick pictures...it is REALLY difficult to take pictures with this dang camera...I was trying to capture both at the same time in the same picture...just didnt work out that way...lol I hope you can see what I am talking about...when I get it on the lift, to actually do the exhaust...(If that ever happens) I will get a better picture. I was told that it was a resonator, then further research advised it was in fact a "pre cat" nice... That last picture you can sort of see the end of the pre cat, as well as the actual cat...?
  5. Yep, 2 cats...just got off work...will get you some pics in the AM. Hell, I will go take some right now...let me put some pants on....
  6. I like your drawer man, I am going to have to do that to hide some of my gear...nice!
  7. You can get away with making your own for around $20 bucks. I am not 100% sure that the metal pipe really helps any more than the stock stuff with a higher flow filter. Remember, intake equals more air in...but without proper exhaust, that won't help much.
  8. You can make a cheap snorkel with pvc pipe bro. I have done it several times with different vehicles. May not get you the ladies, but will keep your motor from hydro-locking on the intake side...
  9. Best thing to do is the headlight mod found here: 88's HEADLIGHT MOD THREAD It entails adding relays, which our trucks do not have...thus taking the strain off of the switch. I did it to mine, due to the same exact issue you are having...I did not have to replace the switch. Pictures of the harness making process are here: MY HEADLIGHT MOD Mine is no different than 88's, but had to be done... Don't end up on fire like I did, do it before it causes any major issues... (It made a world of difference in the headlights as well...)
  10. In reference to the winch cable first: Have had both, synthetic and standard steel cable. Have broken both, but I have to be honest, the synthetic broke under LESS pressure than the steel cable. The cable ONLY broke when it was in such a bind, (and the winch was a PTO setup on a deace and a half) that it had to. The truck we were trying to pull out, ended up staying where it sat for several months, buried...until it dried out enough to go and dig it out. I say all this because my current winch, (sitting in my car port) has steel line...because I removed the synthetic and replaced it...Not saying I dont like the pretty blue and purple and even yellow...colors of line, I am saying that in my experience, I have had less failures with standard steel. Only ran synthetic one time, and it broke...never again. Form your own opinion. Now onto the rock sliders... My truck apparantly had step bars at one time. The bars are gone but the frame mounts are still there. I am thinking about using these to have "Removeable sliders." Not 100% sure though, I know if I did the pipe weld, it would be strong as an ox, but the 1/4 plate mounts look pretty solid... Going to score me some smaller tubing...
  11. Yea, too bad my dang alarm doesnt work...dont even have a remote for it...and Nissan wants like 60 bucks for a replacement...LOL
  12. Whoever had my truck before I got it, already put em in. They fit up in the stock hole just fine. Now they dont have the clearance issues kiwipete has, but I am sure they are just cheapo speakers. (Mine, not yours Kiwi!) Did you build that drawer man? I need one...thats nice...
  13. I guess it depends, bro. If whoever had the truck before you, had it aligned while sagged, then it will be off when you get it back up to height, and will need it again...or if it sagged since...its hard to tell. Most shops will check it for you, free of charge, and let you know if you need it or not.

  14. I have ran flowmasters for years on bigger motors and love them. Magnaflow is great too, but both companies are not cheap. Jones muffler's makes an EXACT copy of the 40 series FM, and its $39 on ebay. They also make glass packs and other muffler designs as well. I am not sure what I am going to do just yet. I know both my cats are clogged up, and my stock exhaust is rusted and clinging to the truck with what little life it has left... Was thinking about the 60 delta flow, but have not found a you tube vid, or a truck with one that sounded halfway decent... As already stated: Form your own opinion.
  15. Ima just weld a piece of swing set to my manifold and cut it off at my rear axle! Thats what my neighbor said, and did...man it sounds like hell...(it is a K5 blazer...) Maybe thats what I need...hahaha
  16. You will have to get an alignment after you do bro. Just FYI

  17. Your right, I apologize. However the information is vital if the bars are already cranked and your still sagging. Basically, loosen the top nut, and place a 19 mm wrench on the lower nut, then use a ratchet and turn the bolt, it will raise the front. But make sure you do both sides the same...

  18. The exhaust is something I have yet to tackle on my rig...it is currently rusted out, and just sort of hanging on for dear life. I have been reading reviews, and watching you tube vids about different mufflers and the corresponding engines pushing them to get an idea of what I want. I had an interesting traffic stop not too long ago. It was an early 90's S10 with the 2.5 4 cylinder. The guy had put a 40 series muffler on it, and it sounded surprisingly good, at idle. When he left the stop, the sound reminded me of a ricer, but none the less... I will probably go with the 2.25 pipe, just because my exhaust guy prefers that...why? I dont know...
  19. The 134 drier should drop right in. Then get the retro fittings and pull a vac on the system. Let it sit and see if the microns drop. If it holds, your golden. Pull it down as low as it will allow, and then charge it up...You may want to use a "First Charge" which has some oil, and conditioners in it as your first can. Truth be known, 134A will drop right on TOP of R12. The EPA is a bunch of idiots working for Bill Cosby and Al Gore. I have been doing A/C work for years, and its all the same...(except for 410A, that stuff sucks.) If you lived closer I would do it for you. I have all the gear, and do most of the patrol cars on my shift. Autozone rents the pump and gauges.
  20. Wow. That is pretty wild. Glad everyone is okay!
  21. Thanks man. Here is a link to 88's re-index "how to." It is what I used to get my t-bars right.

    http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038

    You will have to cut and paste as the comments section wont allow for HTML URL's

  22. Anytime bro, that is exactly what these forums are for!
  23. Makes it difficult to find gears as well...unless you REALLY want to spend a ton of cash...
  24. Gas mileage is average with non ethanol fuel. The lift is nice, as there is no other like it around, which makes it unique...and now it stands out, like a sore thumb. Oh well. I enjoy it, and rarely go off road myself...it is my DD as well.

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