94extreme

naah. he ticked off the g/f and got slap, slaped..

ok, i'll play: location: central

yeah, definitely

that's what i was thinking too.

most likely the heat shield. if this return to center steering problem appeared right after you got it alligned then you should go back to that shop ASAP because they messed something up.. on the strut: you got everything retightened like you're supposed to.. my truck doesn't have the struts so just shooting in the dark here..

alt. or V. regulator but most likely a ground issue. what they ^^^ said about the battery.

grinding indicates sand/dirt in there but doesn't really mean the thing is shot. if it is not loose (ability to "pop" it) then it should be fine.. disassemble the joint, clean it thoroughly, pack with grease and reassemble. the heat marks on the outer part are normal and even new ones have them so don't sweat that..

plywood is kool but i wouldn't use particle board (OSB and the like) i also like 3/4" better. done this many times.. whatever you use DO NOT use any kind of bricks.. concrete, clay or otherwise.. they don't do that well in compression as one might think.

looks pitted. i'd just get a new one guys.

exterior of the wires being cracked or just looking old.. that's the only visual clue.. if you lift your hood at night sometime and see a rock'n roll show you better get some new wires fast on my first pathy, the original nissan plugs lasted about 90k miles.. this one one thing i completely spaced through the years.. there was hardly anything left of the plug (diode). :o the truck wouldn't start when it always did on the first click of the key. i normally check my plugs once in a while (maybe once a year) and when they are bad i do the tune up. from what i have noticed on all my different vehicles is that cap and rotor get used up the fastest.. wires seem to be the most long lasting - two sets of plugs easily.

sure but if there is nothing wrong with the axles themselves why waste the money? two boots $30.. done.. jmho.

a pair of each!! i have 25dollar lights on my truck and i am pretty impressed and more then happy with them..

nope, all you need is some sockets, pair of pliers.. you'll need the 12 sided kind of socket for the bolts that attach the cv to the t case (14mm?) BFH, vice, breaker bar.. jack & stands. and a set of torx.. some grease to regrease the running hubs. may wanna check the bearings, (you'll need the inner seal) and check all of your steering comonents while you're there.. i think i ended up throwing some new bj on there while i was doing this... good luck

wow. cv boots are 12-$15 and include the grease...reassebying the upped bj is prob the hardest.. one of my joints didn't want to come apart no matter what i did.. i ended up driving to a town and going to a machine shop where i used the guy's bfvice and bfh and bfbreaker bar.. and it came apart like butter. it's not a hard job at all... you should be able to knock it out in a half day or so... now, if the cvs are shot really bad it will give you a shimmy, fo sho..

fluids where they need to be? dunno about the nissan PS pumps. see if you can even find a rebuild kit for it.. i just looked. i didn't see any kits. new one is $140, ouch http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....ype=251&ptset=A

what code(s) are you getting?

a torch, a welder and some sheet metal.. of course some skill would also help.

that's not the striping he is referring to.. only the earliest models had them.. not sure if i ever even saw them on anything besides red trucks..

lol, yeah i pinned it a couple of days ago.. trying to avoid yet another one of these...

very similar.

i google smilies sometimes and this came along sometime..

sounds like you need to get under there and have a looksy.

there is an aftermarket rubber "tub" for the back. not sure what brand mine is since i hardly use it but i'll try to look at it for you sometime.

lol. derogate