nunya

just looked up a 1998 fsm and on page EC32 I find to no surprise a match to the 97 specs posted by pathfounder there KOER (key on engine running-at idle)at 34psi(235kPa) vac connected/ 43psi(294kPa) with the vac disconnected the vacuum line in question would be the one to the fuel pressure regulator

As stated a few times, the plug IS steel and yes of all places the factory is going to use the correct tool to install something. To think there's some random idiot just standing there on the assembly line with a 1/2" impact jamming the plugs in until the gun stops or something is just ignorant. The transmission drain plug is the most exposed to the elements of all the steel-in-aluminum plugs so it is generally going to be the first and worst to get corroded in the good and hard, add to the fact the general population don't get their oil changed regularly let alone care about the fluid in the transmission but odds are it gets checked WAY more than it gets drained so the fill plug will break free before the drain plug. as Simon stated, please do some homework and check facts before you go spouting out incorrect info everywhere then getting mad that it's wrong (there are a lot more members here that are IN the automotive field day in day out than you would think, and are outside just the Nissan world as well) and remember from the guidelines:

Think there's some suspension in the way to do that, plus there's a reason the X guys swap TO a wd21 tank from a setup similar to a HB

definatly the guide plate for the transfer case shifter. The "top" in that pic points towards the front of the truck when bolted on, the side against the creeper is the side that goes against the transfer case. Probably removed to take the handle out for easier movement of the t-case when removing/installing the transmission

no worries, just know it from hands on experience

Gotta bore the hubs still, had some of the 'steel rally' six luggers with the bolt on centers and chrome trim rings. (these guys https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTfTTuRux_Ai5ZEzHrD-pvld0Ldjs7oaJTxv9ZH0KZqDEyHp0d25g ) they don't fit over the hubs without help.

http://colbywan.smugmug.com/Cars/Pathfinder/i-DcJtVZR/0/XL/2011-10-2211-45-31HDR-XL.jpg Titan 17s (pic belongs to colbywan) http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/silvertondevil/95pathy/evans_creek_07_29_10/IMG_2231.jpg toyota steelies (image belongs to silverton) http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/joshasta/IMG_3851.jpg sr5 4 spokers (picture belongs to shasdakota) http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/joshasta/IMG_3912-2.jpg painted sr5 4 spokers (also shasdakota's pic) http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk99/damattman24/HPIM1183.jpg s/c Xterra wheels (TheMattMan would be this pics owner) theres a couple wd21s with other stock wheels on em for ya

There's 2 wd21s I can picture in my sad running sr5 aluminum Toyota 4 spokers, they require different lugs (I'll look them up when I'm on my desktop comp if one of them don't chime in before hand), Colbywan and his ZAV have six spokers off a newer Nissan that the hub had to be bored on (check his members rides thread, they DO look sweet and blend with his trucks look beautifully IMO). Laxman I belive had S/C Xterra wheels on his r50 and had to work the hubs as well if my memory serves me right. There was a wd21 for sale on here (can't remember if it was a part out or truck sale) that had chevy steelies on it (with hub work as well). That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'll try to hunt some of those pics later as well (if I don't forget )

From my 1988 FSM, if you have a z24 powered truck (I4 2.4L) you have a R180A up front and a C200 in the back/ VG30i (v6 3.0L) you have a R200A up front and a H233B in the back, transmission options do not affect this (page GI-13) As for gear ratio, there is a tag under the hood on the inside of the right fender near the firewall, the bottom right number on this tag will be either HG43 or HG46 IIRC. HG43=4.3 gears/HG46=4.6 gears. If you have a LSD diff in the rear, there should be an orange tag on the axle itself (they are strong little buggeres so it may be under layers of grease and paint).

Highway/pavement tire Kinda generic tread pattern IMO

Thank you Towncivilian for linking it. Saved me from having to His problem WAS solved so read through the whole thread (or juts the last post on page 3 )

Just got home, didn't even get to look yet saves me a hunt (or pulling one of mine off) good job though

Patience and prying. Start at the top and try to 'pop' the clips out 1 by 1, the verry last one (at dash level) does not clip, only slides in. I got a piece off laying somewhere I'll look for and take a pic later to thy to give you a better visual

x2 the guy who wanted a small fee probably has the correct tool (which Trogdor636 gave a good link to show what your supposed to use) and would want to complete the task, not scratch his head and ship you on your way the same way you pulled in (sounds like a typical chain shop with tech school kids)

you could always do something dorky as a temp needle till you find one like glue one of those little plastic sammich swords as a needle or I've seen zip ties made into needles already. not the cleanest looking but gets by and is defiantly a more 'unique' approach as a get-by (i personally think someone had their hands in those gauges to start with, having white needles on an orange numbered gauge) for your vin question I probably overlooked being answered at the top of this page too, "JN8" = multi purpose passenger vehicle . The 11th digit of the vin is what plant it was from, "C" for Tennessee "W" for it took a trip from the good ol' island of Kyushu

manual transmission... the ultimate anti-theft device

x2 Right here is most likely your issue as mine does the exact same thing because of this.

93+ grey is easier to match aftermarket stuff to, 92- brown-grey is more sweet Nissan goodness, but neither hold a candle to rapist red

good on you for #1 repairing, not just replacing #2 doing it correctly and giving some good explanation and process photos #3 not ignoring the and correctly drilling/tapping/re-installing all hardware back to right I hate doing prep work for bodywork, but like painting. Nice outcome with it

We understand the basics, it's not a needed thing on a wd21 is uncc's point. Thats generally one of those 'jeep things' that they have to worry about.

The "brownish-grey" is what I have compared to the "standard grey" that was also used (have a set of the standard grey front buckets that don't match if I were to use them) and my door panels match perfectly and are from a 90-92 (leather truck at that). When I bought my clino, the cover WAS listed as grey and matches my dash exactly. As for ordering carpet, I'm assuming your goin for one of those aftermarket "perfect fit" kits? (that you need to cut and make fit anyway... I've installed many of them). Be a nice time to think of a cool contrasting color or one that might hide dirt better as options as well (the door jam tag should have a trim code as well and maby ask one of the Nissan techs/parts slingers/someone with FAST for the 'technical' color name as well)

Threw the heads for the 4runner in the back to take to the machine shop we deal with and gave him a $20 splash of fuel (was hovering near that 1/4 tank mark)

You could make it your way and have a local reputable driveline shop balance it...

could have been something that was loose and you tightened when you put the front end back together from the CV job

think before you type please... your on a family site and wouldn't want to offend any of our female members with your poor choice of wording.