nunya

I'm a 'member' on the FB page, I couldn't tell you 97% of what happens on FB period though. I only actually log in anymore to get rid of notificAtions I my phone or respond to a direct message. I'm here and staying here

First off, I always service rotors/drums as a match pair per axle whether it's resurface or replace, brakes ain't an area you do 1/2 the job and go 'meh, close enough'. The name on the box don't mean anything either if it's a low grade semi-metallic line that has a lot of metallic in them, they will squeal fresh out of the box. (Pulling the pads and a scuff with some heavier grit sandpaper can sometimes remidy this). I'm a firm believer in cleaning correctly/lubing correctly the friction areas as well. Were the pins the calipers slide on pulled/cleaned/lubed/free? How about where the pads slide in the brackets? (Not a fan of lubing where the pad/caliper meet, from experience and personal experiments all I noticed it to change was more brake dust on the corner it was done to and maby 1/32 max of quicker wear through the life of experimental sets on the side it was done to. Not enough to completely condemn doing it but enough to keep me from wasting lube doing so). Was the warning chirper (if applicable) on one of the pads bent during installation or out of the box? It can happen, believe me it can definitely happen.

Keep a milk crate in the back? As stated, they ain't off road friendly but from experience living in a salt state and seeing many vechiles on a regular basis and watching their slow deterioration, GoRbino and Lund seem to be a pretty common names outside of dealer installed bars with no names on them. Make sure you have a way to rinse them inside-out as that's how I see most if them rot.

When I got mine (wife got them for me a few years ago, I think she went to CARQUEST and used the shop discount) they came with the ball mount. You say you don't have tools to cut so just return them and get the actual correct ones that come with the hardware, not the ones the air freshner stocker said were the right length.

Photobucket had a free app you can download on your human centipad and you can use the codes in your posts

That could be a dill of a pickle... Haven't found a jack in a junk car to make mounts and try myself

He's the one I was thinking, thank Kyle!

I live in Pittsburgh... Pigeon.

I don't remember off the top of my head who, but I know someone just took the cover off and left the bumper bar there. And I deleted that double post for you

I actually zinged a crank pully off a KA hardbody once. You shoulda heard the bang when it hit the skid!

That's why there's more than one!

Overkill is under-rated

emptied about 20 Reeses peanut butter cup wrappers off the front floor

He is the primary, not the 'alternitive'

87 grade gasoline has removed plenty of aged stubborn sticker residue/glue from many vechiles for me with optimal results. Not I didn't say this is the best choice, but it has done me well

A quite useful tidbit of info making my concern null and void, learned my new fact of the day early

May just be the pictures but to me it looks like the edges of your grill sit at angles as such \___/ where the 'mesh' one looks the be a truer vertical, more a I___I. I would say make sure you get the matching filler pieces that fill between the headlights and grill, just to make sure as well

Those ain't even worry enough to e station wagons.. Crossover, the lowest of the AWD field!

Those ain't SUVs...

I've got factory Xterra carpet mats in the front of mine, identical to the factory front mata I took out only a different shade of grey an say "XTERRA" instead of "NISSAN". Perfect fit as well.

Per the FSM (and my Wagner produced bleed sequence book) the 'correct' sequence is 1. The LSV (load sensing valve)-if applicable, not all trucks have one. 2. LR. 3. RR 4. LF. 5. RF. Why is it 'backwards' from 'normal'? Don't know, but it is written as such for a reason and it has never given me a problem doing it 'right'.

Zerks fittings, I has them

Hey hey! You may be the Miata driver but I'm the token possibly one...

There is a member or 2 here that have lowered caR50s (WOT being one to mind but I can't remember off hand if his was 2wd or 4x4). While there is absolutely nothing wrong with lowering a 4x4, the Pathfinder knowledge around here suspension wise is generally more stock-lifted based so unfortunatly the tech area might be a little vauge for that particular inquiry. There are plenty of tricks though all pathfinders can share no matter what altitude they are at.

and there used to be a red 4 door that ran around here with crank windows and a 2.4L. I wanted that thing...