laxman0324

I have been looking and summit racing has three different ones listed here http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...+115+4294925130 two by ingalls engineering and one by moog. Then AC ones for 30 bucks on their websites. Which one is going to be best with my two inch lift, and do I just get one pair or how many pairs will I need? Also, can anyone tell me if this is the strut mount thing that KYB has a garbage version of? http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...+115+4294925130 If this isn't the right one, which one is it and where should I get this? Im probably going to lift mine in the next couple of weeks... Thanks, Mike

Looks nice. I would just take a knife before it cures and cut around the round pieces on the front because those are all bolts to hold the bumper on the frame and the caps together...just a suggestion if you ever need to remove the bumper since it will be a lot harder to cut through once it cures.

So I got the westin tail light guards because I thought westin is a good brand, but the brackets just dont seem to mount right...does anyone else have these and if so could you snap a pic of the bracket mounted? I really wasnt expecting to drill into my taillight to mount these since the screws are right there but i dont know what other options there are... Thanks, Mike

I bought mine like this, but I have a friend with 70k on his OEMs, and they were GARBAGE. Really squishy and lots of body lean. The KYB's are much tighter and like I said not much body roll. They can get choppy over really rough sections of road, but the doesn't bother me, im not expecting sedan quality ride...

KYB has excellent struts. My truck has KYB struts and shocks in the back and I love the ride. Not a lot of body roll while turning but they still soak up bumps well. I would definitely go with KYB struts/shocks, but I just heard the KYB bearings are not good, so stick with OEM. I just realized you misread Navy's post and I misread your post. He said the KYB bearings are garbage not the struts/schocks...

You know they are trying to do them all up and down 95 from DC to northisde 695?

they wear out really quickly i believe...

suggestions for what would do it? just some random rubber pieces?

Yea, they are from NZ I believe, but Im sure Japan has them as well...I was pricing them and the best I got was round 1k...Ill pass

The second part is warped rotors...the vibration at speed i imagine is bad balance, but i dont see why it would be inconsistent

Yea to get it tight it rubbed some pain off of the bumper, i was gonna hit it with some rust neutralizer as well as flat black rustoleum...ill hit the light bar as wel, thanks for the advice...

its glue...somewhere in the long paragraph i said that...i need to get some fine grit sandpaper and take care of it...before i cut the fins off the back of that plastic piece i tried gluing the switch onto the plastic piece and it just made a holy mess...im anal about a clean car, don't worry about that :tonguefinger:

Thanks man, the QX4 lights had reverse lights on the tailgate, not the pathy QX4 Pathy

Look in the pic for the relay, all the way on the right hand side is the fuse for the cable going to the battery (yellow), and the turn on wire (white) has an inline fuse as well.

Ask and you shall receive...check out this link http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry297225

And now I need your opinions on what to do...I already ordered the tail light guards in black, but I wasn't sure if I should still buy the updated taillights from the 00+...fire away...heres a pic to imagine on...also, if I do get those, do you think they would look right with the taillight guards?

Ive asked myself that many times, as soon as someone does I will have them and bi-xenon projectors installed...

So I got my grill guard on with the new bumper and caps and all, and installed the KC daylighters...First Ill give a little detail... 1. I got the grill guard off of ebay from this company http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Grill-Guard...sspagenameZWD1V 2. I got the KC's from http://www.performanceproducts4trucks.com/...&pid=109515 and I got part number 803558. Ok now I wired the turn on (supply) wire to the parking light right by the battery and mounted the relay right next to the battery, and attached the ground for the relay right under the screw for the relay. The wires for the KC's I just fed up in front of the radiator and through the grill, and wrapped the exposed wires in electrical tape so they are less visible. I fed the turn on wire and the load wire around the engine bay by the windshield, zip tieing the wires to various parts away from the engine. As suggested in another post I removed the bracket covering where the clutch would go and fed the wires through there, then put the cover back on while not squeezing the wires too much. I attached the ground for the switch to a bolt in the footwell, and I put the switch in a factory looking location by drilling out the plastic cover under the security light and cutting off the fins on the backside so I could fit the switch. The switch is a little messy since I applied a little glue, just ignore that. Ok here are the pics. This one is the switch (thanks fukinitupagain for the inspiration, but mine isnt as good as yours) This one is where the clutch plate is This is where I mounted the relay This is a pic with everything turned off And heres a pic with the parking lights on and the KC's

Those lenses are different then a pathfinder...Ive seen pictures of the light output and the light is scattered all over the place, including other drivers eyes...I wish it wasn't because I would do this in a heartbeat but unfortunately the reflector design on the pathfinder isnt compatible...this is just IMHO of course...

R50s are the same, any R50 headlight should NOT have HID installed unless you retrofit a projector or a new housing that won't scatter the light...your light pattern will be all over the place and you will blind other drivers...a projector retro would be cool though

yay im special ...got the grill guard on and the KC's wired up to come on with the parking lights when the switch is on...yay

nvm...found this link with more searching http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...amp;hl=firewall

Well I have my KC's mounted and wired up, all I need to do is run the wires through the firewall and into the switch...my question...how do you get through the firewall...i spent 20 mins searching on the truck with no luck finding any holes...how did you all do it? And good descriptions and possibly pics would be great if you have them... Thanks, Mike

no til tomorrow when i get home..its the mounting point for the bumper bracket, the screw goes in the front and then there are two bolts pressed into that mounting point, the rear one has the nut on it...in the accident the mounting point bent and that rear nut is pointing down some and its sitting about half an inch lower...im driving my grandfathers Volvo XC 90 in the meant time, fun SUV on the road

Ok well I got the old bumper off, put together the new bumper, moved everything over to the new bumper that I needed to, and found out my mounting bracket on the bumper driver's side was bent to hell and the bracket with the red arrow on the truck is bent too...any suggestions for how to straighten it would be greatly appreciated...and ill throw in a pick of the mille marker hubs since i didnt before...