laxman0324

I was wondering if any of you knew of a good place to get the Projector style headlights the R50's in your area had. If anybody knows of a good place or a junkyard or something where you can get them, I would be extremely grateful if you would be kind enough to ship a pair to the US for me (I pay of course), and some extra compensation for your hard work. Maybe if enough R50 owners would like a set, we could get a group buy, and I could distribute them to whoever purchases a set. For those of you who don't know what they look like, xplorx4 (sorry i dont remember which ones are caps) has them, ill try to post a pic of it in a few mins, just let me know if you dont want your pic xlporx4. Thanks, Mike

how much for the parts?

Suspension: 1. Ironman, lift height, ride, quality? (I can get these for about $130 for a full set, and I will need to buy shocks and struts before installing them, but would I need a camber adjustment bolts as well?) 2. AC, lift height, ride, quality? (The sprins alone cost almost $300 before shipping, and with shocks/struts upwards of $700+, and camber adjustment bolts) 3. OME, lift height, ride, quality? I know OME is the most expensive, and honestly I would rather go with the largest lift, but I need the experts to weigh in. I have an opportunity to possibly get a set for a better price from AC after they messed up my CV axle order, but the Ironman lift seems exotic since nobody talks about it much or has it, so any advice on them would be great. TIA, Mike

Jack the rear up, spin one rear tire, if the other spins in the same direction you have LSD, if it doesnt then you dont...it might have a tage on it saying use LSD oil only or something like that

took me 20 mins bye myself to remove the sunroof and drain assembly and get access to a good 3 inches or so of space btwn the headliner and roof...

Can you elaborate on why you are fine with those viscosities over recommended? And if someone could add in the amount that the transmission takes, as well as the coolant system, brake system, and power steering...im going to do it all this summer after the first paycheck...better to keep her running then making her look good sitting in the driveway broken.

Welcome back...sucks bein low level guys though

There will be no lights for a t-case leak, or for many leaks, so waiting for lights will not be fruitful practice in the long run. It took me about 5 hours on my own to take my T-case out and put a new one in on my Mercedes, and the pathy has a lot more clearance around the top of the case, so I wouldnt rule out doing it yourself...i think youd be surprised how easy it is

I see. I can't even think of them as seperated by one model year. The 3.3 just seems like one of those big old slow V6's like Chevy still does, and the 3.5 seems more like the new wave of V6's with all of this valve timing changes and all. Its wierd to think how my moms Pilot (insanely fast and that vtec :tonguefinger: ) is a V6 just like my slow old Pathy...its also amazing how American cars still have to rely on V8 power to keep up with the V6's from the Japs...hopefully the new V6 in the CTS will be a good engine. Ill go ahead and add this

agreed

I'll admit the green looks great but theres that big thing in the left rear window...it should be a Raven, thats the only way to go.

I dont think the rear diff is any bigger, and I know for the 97 SE the LSD was an option package with the black grill and black instead of the chrome bumper caps.

Does the 96-99 have any advantage off road other then looking more rugged? I would love to have the additional power of the 00+, but it all depends on what your needs are for performance. The 3.3 is pretty slow, but when you get on it it will go, and ive driven many miles on the highway with mine and am satisfied. Trainman: what really makes the 3.5 a better engine? Ive heard nothing but good things about the 3.3, and those 3.5 have problems with the power valve screws or something?

Every other car I've been in idled between 600-750, I'm just making sure its not a symptom of a problem.

ooooookkkkkkk...i started to last night and fell asleep reading it, but next time im home i will have to check that out and remove the skid plate and front bumper to find out about this clunking im getting (hopefully)

1. It is a clunking sound, definitely not a rattle... 2. I thought I read that the TPS is cheap to replace anyway, so I was just gonna do it along with the other sensors and all the spark plug related stuff One other possible symptom I noticed, when I drive the truck for maybe 10 or 15 minutes, then go in a building for a couple mins and come back out, when i restart the pathy it starts at 1.5k then goes down to 1k then back up to 1.5k like someone is revving it and letting off. Don't know if this is normal or not but just stating.

I have a 97. I will def. look into replacing the rear coolant sensor, the other O2 sensor, and everything with the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor...anything else i should do for the tune up? Im planning on doing the fuel filter and seafoaming to clean out carbon deposits. Thanks for all your help.

1. I checked like simon said and it all looks good in the fender under the hood, is there any way to check with the wheel off? 2. I guess I will replace the other O2 sensor, the right one was replaced right when i bought it. Now what purpose do the two rear O2 sensors serve? And what is the cap, rotor, and PCV valve? Do you know of a good place to buy these parts? And how hard are they to do?

@zonian: I know all about the MAF's, pretty popular part to fail on my old Mercedes. Isn't there a specific cleaner for the MAF, i thought CRC made it? Are the metal prongs really that sensitive? My engine runs great on the highway, its my bushings that are giving me the death wobble at anything over 60, scary to drive. @Simon: Thanks, I'll have to check that out next time I have it back home, I'm back at UMD now so I can't check it.

1. Ill have to check that out, is there any way I can visually inspect these without taking things apart? 2. I bought the truck two months ago, so I have no idea if its been cleaned or not but I was gonna do it this summer with the TPS sensor anyway. Im getting a on again off again CEL, I believe its for an O2 sensor, but my mileage has been 18-19. What all do you mean to do bye tuneup? I was gonna do plugs and wires, and clean out the TBI and crankcase and all with seafoam, and I was going to change ALL fluids this summer. Wouldn't the MAF throw a code?

Thats great to know these can really last that long with routine maintenance. Now, how long do the trannies last? Mine has 112,000 on it and the trannie shifts as smooth as butter, except when cold.

Ok, Ive gotten a few things fixed, but now I have a small list of the last few things i need to fix... 1. I have something moving around in my front suspension/steering that moves whenever I go over a bumpy path of pavement or anything like that, and i can get it to move around at slow speeds if i turn the wheel back and forth... Anybody have any suggestions of what to look for? 2. During hard throttle, hard enough to keep it in the same gear, but not downshift (AT), the engine seems as though the power supply isn't constant, it seems to go in and out of throttle, if you watch the tach, you can see the tach rise, then pause for a second, and you can audibly hear the engine do it. Is this a sign of bad plugs? Throttle position sensor? anything else? I just had the oil changed and they didnt mention anything about sludge or anything, so I doubt its that. 3. Where is the TPS located, how hard is it to replace, and where is the best place to purchase it? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad TPS? My pathy idles at around 900 after warmed up and in park. 4. Where is the coolant temp sensor located, and all the same questions as above. My temp gauge is always right at the middle when warm, so does this mean that this sensor is fine or what? Thanks for all your help in advance, I'm really loving this truck, but just wanna get it into the best running shape I can so I can get many good years out of it. Mike

I dont have any crossbars on mine any more. It turns out the cross members are glued on to the roof, and the glue had come undone, so i used a candle lighter thing and heated the glue up and pressed the bar onto the roof for a minute or so, and it has stopped so far, thank god. Thanks for all your help.

Its def. not any of that, i have the sunroof off and the sunroof cover off and i know it is that...i have shoved screw drivers in every gap and bang on the roof and i still get the noise...its driving me crazy, especially since i found it but I CANT FIND IT!!!!

So I have had a rattle just behind my sunroof, but now that i removed the sunroof and the shade and everything, i know it is coming from somewhere on the crossmember that goes right over the passenger compartment. I have jammed long screw drivers, meter sticks, everything in every gap i could find and it still rattles... My ides are either to... 1. find some way to remove the crossmember and leave it out 2. Cut a hole in the headliner, and get a bunch of cheap leather gloves from home depot, cut off the cloth, and jam the leather in every gap i can find... does anyone know how much weaker to roof structure will be without that crossmember? This noise has been driving me freaking crazy, it only occurs at 50+, but most roads im on are that. Thanks, Mike