laxman0324

ill state the obvious just to make sure...check to make sure everything is replaced properly and there are no visible faults, if there are then do a little troubleshooting...if you just replaced the wire put back in your old wire and start it up and see if the wire is whats doing it...if you replaced both, try replacing one at a time to find out what is not working properly

woah, 175 to pull the driveshaft? thats at least 2+ hours of labor they are charging you for, and it would take you maybe 20 mins to pull it on your own...maybe if they pulled the cv's as well...please tell me they gave you the parts back. and wd21 is the codename for the model range, which is the first pathy ever made-1995, i have a r50, which is a 1996 pathy - 2003 (i believe)...my old mercedes was w163, my accord cd5, ive noticed using the codenames isnt as popular for the pathys as it has been for my other vehicles. id do what others have said, check for your pathy in a junkyard and pull a diff off of one of those (check the gear ratios first), let us know how it all works out

did you check out the site navy posted above? that site and courtesynissan.com has them and im sure you can find them on ebay...wouldnt hurt to check ur local junkyards or craigslist as well

I agree with everything simon has said...its def. not worth dumping your pathy just because you had a little mishap. Get them to remove the front driveline, make sure the cv's as well because with the auto hubs they still spin when the tires spin. Get it home and get it to a mechanic you trust. You should be able to pull a diff out of one in a junkyard or i think some of the members were saying a certain jeep diff would work there, i would trust them over me as some of them own wd21s and i have an r50. good luck and let us know how it works out

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 check that forum out, i was thinking about getting them and i just got them on...took me about 45 mins max, bout the same if its your first time with this but you know how to do work on the truck, if not a shop could do it and you could probably talk them out of a full hour of labor...maybe

if you get a set of manual locking hubs for it you would then stop the front drivetrain from spinning even in 2wd and you could limp it home, i just got one for my r50 for $100, with that low of mileage i would not junk the thing. If you really want to though, PM me with the price.

are these seats really that much different between the years? I have a 97, and i thought the leather was pretty good for being 10+ years old

i hear ya about some ppl takin it to seriously, i mugged one guy randomely and every time hes online he tries to mug me and loses, probably 10 times or so now, and i just mug him back and take his cash...he is successful in trashing my rig though... right now im level 57, I have a pull strap, super grabbers, injected V6, the one ton tcase, and light duty chrome, and the farthest trail ive beaten so far is the rig snapper...i only own a three car garage, i make no money btw my number is 8187

haha j/k man i havent seen em but they would be cool

i want to know the price of each piece or a full set b4 i bother him...hoping a member who had them would post

I was considering going NGK, but i think im going to go with bosch as well...after owning the Mercedes and all of the Bosch parts breaking down it makes me skeptical and theres a tool in the little roadside jack kit that gets to number 6

x3

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-OEM-CENTE...sspagenameZWDVW these are the kind i have, these arent mine, just a sample i found

and exactly which kind, because the pre99 and 99+ have different center caps. I have a 97 SE with the chrome center caps, and I just got the manual hubs so im not gonna need two of the caps nemore

thats all you got out of that? Funny, cuz i spent more time figuring that out then reading the thread as well...

ohhhh i didnt know that...right now priority number is gettin my pathy on the road, its been sidelined for over a month now and ive been driving a 97 Saturn POS...maybe after xmas i become a donor

ok someone tell me how to add friends...i have all of you under my contacts but i dont know how to make you friends i lied i ended up getting hooked on it now...right now im level 25...building stats ill post later tonight when im done what i have

ill go one step further and say i really doubt it because of the switch for od on/off that is integrated in that handle...maybe you could do something creative with a shifter that has a nitrous switch in it or just not have a switch but the fact that its there makes everything harder

ok so i just straightened everything out with 4x4parts.com. I am replacing the entire cv axle assembly with both boots, and i got the Mile Marker manual locking hubs, not the Warns. I did some research online and Mile Marker stands by there product with a good warranty, so i figured id save some $$$ and give it a try. I will see if the installation is any different and try and take some pics and let you guys know. Thanks for all your input, im sure youll here from me when i go to do the installation with some problem i run into.

i think something came up, i was gonna buy something from him and pmed him over a week ago and he hasnt responed, but i havent seen him post since then... he seems pretty reputable i give him the benefit of the doubt

Could you pm me the seller you got them from? Ive seen a few advertise them for our year, but dont know if its bs or not. I wasnt sure if just buying the regular tails from a newer pathy would plug directly in. I wasnt really going for the better lighting (though that is a bonus), i was going for the better looks. I was gonna use either the ones you have or the QX4's from 97, which just has the amber part clear. I love the look of the clear turn signal lenses, i did mine as well and think it looks great, im just wondering how my fully loaded SE came with the black grill and bumpers instead of the chrome

i would never do that...now it makes sense

is the additional power the rear driveline experiences due to the loss of the parasitic cv axles really enough to overpower the rear driveline? i just dont want to be afraid to push my pathy if i need/want to. im not lookin for sports car performance but i would like to have a little fun when i want to...

so now your saying that when i use 2lo with the hubs disengaged and i try to have a little fun i will break parts? Thats no fun im not tryin to do burnouts or anything, but if i need to get out in a hurry and the wheels start chirpin i dont want things breaking

i was just gonna figure out when i got there... by the way i have a couple questions about the function of these hubs...when i have it on off i have no 4wd capability...what happens if i shift the tcase into 4wd while the hubs are off? will this cause any damage? when i shift i turn the hubs on, tcase in 2wd is it like the hubs now with 2wd? Then when i shift into 4wd im really in 4wd?