laxman0324

So the filter change itself went fantastic, but the stupid little strap that holds it on has one of those typical 10mm rusted off bolts that Nissan loves to use. Since I couldn't fit a drill up there and did not want to grind around gas lines, I had to use tin snips and cut the rusted strap. So now I have what is pictured below. If I leave it like this it will move around a little and possibly over time come out of the strap. My only thought right now is to try and get a pair of hose clamps and try to clamp around either side of the strap, maybe diagonally. If anyone has a good idea let me know!

Wow that looks great...I like how much tighter it is to the body than most of the bumpers available...

So you are blinding people enough with the lift (which I don't have a problem with) and now you will blind them by putting HIDs in housings designed for regular lights. Personally I have loved your build and love your Pathfinder but that is just irresponsible. I am in no way attacking you personally but I just hate when people do this.

Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 and Mobil 1 filters.

5 Speed with the VQ35. About as much fun as you can have in an SUV. 5 speeds have 250 hp but less torque I believe.

Here is what the Haynes manual says. Sorry if the orders get mixed up.

Well what happened for me was I was driving at 70 and heard a noise like a rock in the wheel well then the vibration and very slight noise started, so my first step is to get the wheels re balanced in case I lost a weight (which is what I am hoping). Anyway keep us updated on what happens with yours in case others have the same issue...

What ever happened with this? Did you figure out the cause? My truck just started getting a weird very light vibration along with a slight roaring noise above 65...

The 99.5+ have slightly larger rotors. Slightly. I am pretty sure the wheel issue was with 15" Nissan steelies and a few aftermarket models. I seem to remember some people had no problem getting them to fit and some people had to grind down the calipers a little to get them to fit.

Return the HID kit because our lenses are not compatible with the light output from those bulbs and you will be blinding oncoming drivers to get good light for yourself.

Glad to hear it's a short job. I do think Nissan V6's are great motors, and I have no issue with leaking. The problem with the design is the baffles accumulate sludge if you use regular oil and that contributes to the oil burning. I am confident when I make the repair this motor will last me a long long time. Mike

I need to replace mine as well. R50's apparently have a horribly designed valve cover and regular oil sludges up the oil channels. Since I am burning oil I figured they would be a good thing to replace. I have the FSM and it says nothing about removal. I can send it to you if you want and have an email provider that will accept a large file. I also have the Haynes manual at home which I can check tomorrow and if it has info scan and post it up. It doesn't look too bad, something like 10 bolts per side and a couple hoses, and the oil filler tube and some intake brackets are on the driver's side valve cover. We will see... Mike

Haha the good old Lincoln Locker. Thats the cheapest way but the tire wear and noise issue are enough to be concerned about for most people...

You lucky dog! Sucks you had to do some cutting but I would gladly to fit those babies as well! I am looking forward to seeing those bad boys lit up! Are you going to use the little city lights or are you going to leave them out of the equation?

Yup...now go kick that manager in his testes...

Somewhere in that paragraph i said that. There is only a rotation at the ball joint when the spring compresses or expands. No rotation at the lower strut mount (where the camber bolts are).

The connection for the lower strut mount to the lower control arm should be rigid, so no rotation. I only have one bolt in on each side right now but I think I want to get another set as I am at the very limit of being within factory specs. I want to get as close to zero camber as possible. The ball joint guy was correct the ball joint is where the rotation in the front suspension comes from. The rigid nature of the struts lower mount is why they suck so bad. As the suspension articulates the camber curve is horrible. More advanced setups maintain the same camber through the entire articulation.

First thing I would do is manuals all the way around. Make it standard in every vehicle, every trim level. Ditch the CVT for cars and focus on a dual clutch auto as most companies are going to. Cars: First shrink EVERYTHING to the size they were in 95. And every performance oriented FWD needs LSD. Nothing ruins the fun more than tire spin on a FWD. Sentra needs a coupe. Altima I'm cool with minus the CVT. I like the Maxima, maybe a coupe (though that would be a large coupe). Definitely needs a manual. Maybe AWD as an option since this thing is so big and expensive. SUVs: Make the Xterra a little smaller. IDK about a 2 door since I don't think it will sell that much. Solid front axle and factory lockers, etc. as a factory off road package. Pathfinder...hmmm...I kind of like where it is now barely fitting a third row, and idk that it needs solid axles if the Xterra takes the off road role. Maybe do an air lift suspension like the Grand Cherokee is doing. Armada...I say dead. IDK what current sales are but unless they are fantastic kill it. Trucks: Make the frontier smaller with an off road option like the Xterra. Titan...pull your head out of your ass and offer work truck packages, regular cabs, V6, heavy duty lines, etc. Time to put up or shut up. If the Titan can't succeed get rid of it. As far as sports cars I am cool with what we have, but why is the Z so damn expensive? I think an entry level cost of 26-27k for the Z would make sales skyrocket, and I don't see what costs so much that it can't be at that price range. Crossovers blow but they sell. I say give the Juke attitude to the Rogue since that size sells like hot cakes and keep the Murano. Nothing else.

So when I bought my 01 a couple years ago the owner had shut the door on the only key fob and destroyed it, so I had to buy one online (ebay). It worked for two years and stopped about a month ago. I replaced the battery and now it works sporadically at best. Every time I walk up to get in the truck it will open the doors fine, but about half the time I leave the truck and push the lock button nothing happens. So does it sound like I need to get another new fob or any ideas why this could be happening?

I have carried around 1000lbs in the rear of my R50. I had the rear seats folded and half a ton of pellets spread all through the back of my Pathfinder twice to get a ton of pellets home. With the AC springs I saw at most 1" of sag and the ride quality was almost the same as unloaded. I have been very impressed by my AC springs so far. I do not think these will work for you because they will create 2+" of lift with very little sag, so you will have a muscle car rake.

Tyler. If you cannot get the TJM to work. PM me. Name your price. I want. And nice job on the QX4, though now you have HID headlights that you cannot use anymore. I'm excited to see you build another R50.

I am more than satisfied with my LSD rebuild. I have had no issues and the traction is terrific (not to mention the tail happy nature on wet pavement). Good luck with it and I can tell you another set of hands makes taking apart and putting together the diff a lot easier...

If you look in my LSD rebuild thread you will see the factory 2001 configuration, which I think is rated at the same breakaway torque 1996-2004, so I would guess the information you found is incorrect. Even if you look at the Desert Runner stock configuration it wasn't ideal, and that was at least as tight as any WD21 if not tighter.

And he is correct. Factory had barely any alternating disc/plates. Simply rearranging the factory ones would probably give you pretty nice results... Check out the pics in this build thread, you will see stock configuration: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22182&hl=LSD+rebuild

I seriously doubt that. I did a lot of research on this subject and found most of the issues are from people that make mistakes when rebuilding their LSD, not the configuration.