laxman0324

The connection for the lower strut mount to the lower control arm should be rigid, so no rotation. I only have one bolt in on each side right now but I think I want to get another set as I am at the very limit of being within factory specs. I want to get as close to zero camber as possible. The ball joint guy was correct the ball joint is where the rotation in the front suspension comes from. The rigid nature of the struts lower mount is why they suck so bad. As the suspension articulates the camber curve is horrible. More advanced setups maintain the same camber through the entire articulation.

First thing I would do is manuals all the way around. Make it standard in every vehicle, every trim level. Ditch the CVT for cars and focus on a dual clutch auto as most companies are going to. Cars: First shrink EVERYTHING to the size they were in 95. And every performance oriented FWD needs LSD. Nothing ruins the fun more than tire spin on a FWD. Sentra needs a coupe. Altima I'm cool with minus the CVT. I like the Maxima, maybe a coupe (though that would be a large coupe). Definitely needs a manual. Maybe AWD as an option since this thing is so big and expensive. SUVs: Make the Xterra a little smaller. IDK about a 2 door since I don't think it will sell that much. Solid front axle and factory lockers, etc. as a factory off road package. Pathfinder...hmmm...I kind of like where it is now barely fitting a third row, and idk that it needs solid axles if the Xterra takes the off road role. Maybe do an air lift suspension like the Grand Cherokee is doing. Armada...I say dead. IDK what current sales are but unless they are fantastic kill it. Trucks: Make the frontier smaller with an off road option like the Xterra. Titan...pull your head out of your ass and offer work truck packages, regular cabs, V6, heavy duty lines, etc. Time to put up or shut up. If the Titan can't succeed get rid of it. As far as sports cars I am cool with what we have, but why is the Z so damn expensive? I think an entry level cost of 26-27k for the Z would make sales skyrocket, and I don't see what costs so much that it can't be at that price range. Crossovers blow but they sell. I say give the Juke attitude to the Rogue since that size sells like hot cakes and keep the Murano. Nothing else.

So when I bought my 01 a couple years ago the owner had shut the door on the only key fob and destroyed it, so I had to buy one online (ebay). It worked for two years and stopped about a month ago. I replaced the battery and now it works sporadically at best. Every time I walk up to get in the truck it will open the doors fine, but about half the time I leave the truck and push the lock button nothing happens. So does it sound like I need to get another new fob or any ideas why this could be happening?

I have carried around 1000lbs in the rear of my R50. I had the rear seats folded and half a ton of pellets spread all through the back of my Pathfinder twice to get a ton of pellets home. With the AC springs I saw at most 1" of sag and the ride quality was almost the same as unloaded. I have been very impressed by my AC springs so far. I do not think these will work for you because they will create 2+" of lift with very little sag, so you will have a muscle car rake.

thannkkkkksssss...... sarcasm is fun! But seriously, that came out a little more ferociously than I intended...my bad. Reliable power is a good thing and thankfully when looking only at the Pathfinder world of VQ's we have been fortunate to not have any serious repetitive issues (yes the butterfly valves are an issue but 10 minutes or research and a little bit of time remedies that, so as intelligent car people I think we can look at that as a minor issue). Back to the Xterra issue. I think I would actually prefer the VG in an X instead of a VQ because the VG behaves more like a truck motor. It is torquey and has lots of balls down low which I think fits the feel of something like an X better than a smooth high revving VQ motor. Having had both motors with over 100k miles I think they are both great, but personal preference in my Pathfinder led me to the 5 speed VQ motor, it is much better suited for my 90% highway driving.

For all the good things you say, that is garbage...stop being so ignorant about anything other than small block chevys or ancient pathfinders...R50's are great trucks and VQ35's are great motors. As are VQ40's. Get over it.

Tyler. If you cannot get the TJM to work. PM me. Name your price. I want. And nice job on the QX4, though now you have HID headlights that you cannot use anymore. I'm excited to see you build another R50.

I am more than satisfied with my LSD rebuild. I have had no issues and the traction is terrific (not to mention the tail happy nature on wet pavement). Good luck with it and I can tell you another set of hands makes taking apart and putting together the diff a lot easier...

If you look in my LSD rebuild thread you will see the factory 2001 configuration, which I think is rated at the same breakaway torque 1996-2004, so I would guess the information you found is incorrect. Even if you look at the Desert Runner stock configuration it wasn't ideal, and that was at least as tight as any WD21 if not tighter.

And he is correct. Factory had barely any alternating disc/plates. Simply rearranging the factory ones would probably give you pretty nice results... Check out the pics in this build thread, you will see stock configuration: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22182&hl=LSD+rebuild

I seriously doubt that. I did a lot of research on this subject and found most of the issues are from people that make mistakes when rebuilding their LSD, not the configuration.

I'm interested...

So the pictures show whats going on. One of the bolts for the upper sway bar link bracket has a captive nut that is no longer captive, so it will not be coming off. I removed the sway bar link and still don't have enough room to fit a socket on the control arm bolt. How in the world am I going to get to that nut without cutting off the bracket or drilling out the bolt to remove the bracket? Let me stress I would really like to keep my sway bar. My only idea was to use and offset wrench but I do not like the fact that wrenches are 12 point with these nuts that are notoriously difficult to get off. The last thing I want is a rounded nut. I would appreciate any ideas!

Ty, I'm sorry about the damage and the complete idiocracy of people. I hope this fiasco somehow benefits you (don't know how but here's to wishing). Keep us updated man. Mike

Im fairly certain the only options are: PCV catch can and replace the valve covers...I read an article from a guy who tried to clean them by flushing them many times and it just didn't work well enough to justify not replacing them...

haha this page has gone a little off, but when someone says more better and that they want a man tranny in the same post it deserves to be pointed out... and i would only consider a trade for an excursion 7.3L diesel...

That I did. 250hp+5speed=about as much fun as you will have in an SUV...especially with my rebuilt almost locked LSD rear... And a stock pic...

I speak Russian ok, but I read and write it better.

im dieing to see finished pics...

That is great! Ty, I think you can manage that, eh?

I did a little write up on how to remove the sunroof it is really easy...PM me if you need pictures, but basically you pop off the side plastic pieces and take off 4 or 6 bolts and off comes the glass panel, just be careful with your alignment when putting it back on...

They will not fit because their bolt pattern is a lot tighter than ours (meaning the bolt circle is a smaller diameter).

Nissan got smart with the VQ R50 and put in a little metal piece that catches the oil that comes out and directs it over the subframe, so strategic placement of the oil catch pan makes for minimal mess. Of course this is without a skid plate on since I have the 4x4parts.com one and have to take it off each time

Because I was picking my nose while reading replies... I think you are going to make a good choice just make sure all things maintenance related are caught up on and you will be looking at thousands of solid miles from a great vehicle! My Pathfinder has 117k now and I have no noises of any kind...

Since when has the VQ35 not been a bulletproof engine? There is one little issue with the butterfly valve screws but first of all if you get a manual like me you don't need to worry about them and second of all I would much rather loctite a couple screws than change a timing belt. The VQ35 is a highly award winning engine that is still used today in the Xterra and Pathfinder (upped displacement to 4.0 but same motor) and in many Nissan cars. I test drove a couple Xterra and did not like them at all, the ride was much harsher than my lifted pathfinder and they were very clumsy on the street. Also, the cabins were very cheap looking and feeling, a Pathfinder will net you a much nicer cabin. And I am 6'4" and I would be uncomfortable in the back of my pathfinder, I can't imagine being the in the back of an Xterra! R50 Pathfinders are finally getting some aftermarket support so the future of our parts availability and variety is only going to increase from here, so I think nthe Xterra advantage there will diminish over time...