JeepRescueService14

rear main...?? that musta cost some $$$ well i dont think they can sleeve that one butget some engine brite and clean your engine off WHEN COLD, then start it up and see where it somes from... if it still comes from the back (between the trans) it could be a galley plug ( not likely ) or the seal was done incorrectly good luck

ground clearance is everything... youd get 2 inches from jgc springs after they settle with no spacers added, but you need 1 in ball joint spacers and an alignment to lift the front 3 in.. not to mention re indexing the t bars.. thats the cheapie suspy lift i have... if you dont know how to adjust toe roughly dont add your bj spacers... unless you are at an alignment shop!!

pumpkin, third member, diff, rear end.. same thing.. there is nothing servicable (or weldable, unless you're a butcher) in there besides the gears, clutches and bearings.. when your gears are going they either howl, or they just go bye bye. and your with bearings they just howl and sometimes a light grind all the time.. although... since i have the same noises it might be a good idea to check the oil for water and junk ...

oil would be blue exhaust...

dude, dont worry its a growling type noise from your rear end like in parking lots or when making tight turns like u turns???? mine makes the same noise and my posi works fine.. its just the clutches... TURN THE RADIO UP!

hey high tech bumpstops! ball joint spacers.... ANOTHER REASON TO LIFT YOUR PATHY!

exactly... im almost happy with the pathy.. some more suspension junk, a PA so i can yell at chicks from the inside, and a light bar on top for ... JEEP RECOVERY... HAHAHA

man.. over here, if you get your rig stuck in azusa cyn overnight, 2 things are gonna happen... either the rangers are gonna drag it out with their dozer and winch or the bandits are gonna steal yer stuff! HAHAH!

yea, make an air compressor out of it for airing back up... just add some slick 50 or some good n slippery stuff to it before each use.. its been done before, id do it but its too hot here in EL A

WHOA!!!.. those 2 bugs in that pic were boning!!! what is this like, insect porn??

find a hole in the wall axle rebuilder.. i got mine for 40 ea rebuilt

even the real serious mudders... Dana 60 axles.. gm 14 bolt difffs beefy u joints... you want badass?? you gotta pay for badass.. thats why the pathy is gonna stay at 33s.. im gonna watch badass break in the mud from the littlel hill i climbed! HA HA HA! bottom line.. pathys are made for our lil VG30.. thats it!

realistically, larger displacement engines do not need to be so fine tuned or high strung and can be calmer and more powerful through the whole powerband.. sure, you can supermod your VG30 to make as much power as a 350 and make 350 HP between 6000 and 6500 rpm.. when youre offroad youre not always gonna be at 6000-6500 rpm.. or am i lost in 1973???

if you havent done one, dont try it unless you can do it with someone who has.. If you know your way around nuts and bolts pretty well go for it! but remember... DOING THE JOB TWICE SUX...

1. buy good spray paint! not that cheap junk! 2. throw 3 or 4 LIGHT coats on it.. Krylon flat black.... simple thats it. unless you drive in sandstorms all day long, is not gonna look like crap

not on MAF sensors and junk, but there arent ( i dont think so anyways.. correct me if im wrong) any more sensors past the butterflies... you want to clean the idle control passage not spray it on the sensors... anyways if thats your problem, thats an easy solution

No replacement for dispacement.. chevy probably has the cheapest horsepower per dollar ratio... but you figure for a 4x4 you want torque everywhere on your powerband, like a V8.. not the peaky power like the twin turbo motor... or a rotary, those are badass

i never worked on my pathys engine yet but i had a crown vickie and had the same problem.. but no codes.. Anyways, the idle control passage in the throttle body was restricted with gunk.. that may be causing the poor idle and stalling.. check it out, or get a can of carb cleaner and spray it in the butterfly, opening and closing it, while running, revving and at idle... fixed it for me

maybe you were floating! HAHA! you got lucky!

yea. VERY VERY little...

easy as pie man... no complaints. rides a bit different, but as to be expected tho

HAHAH i was reading this cause i was bored and i came across this.. WHOA...air is a fluid??? well that gas, liquid, solid theory... goes right out the window... Gas, compressable... Liquid, NOT. whats the difference

if your tranny fluid smells burnt or nasty, and never have changed it in 500000 miles. LEAVE IT ALONE... all that gunk, that nasty varnish, thats the stuff that keeps those seals sealing, and those clutches grabbing... ive seen a bunch of trannies die cause the oil was changed in them.. atf is a high detergent oil so thats why... ATF is also good to add to engine oil a day or 2 before you change your oil if you havent done so in 20000 miles or so... helps loosen up all the nasties that build up...

yea.. exactly.. if i wanted a badass muddin machine id get a K5 Blazer and uhh yea 44s, big block, yah know all that good junk.. i like my daily drivin, easy gettin into, A/C havin chick gettin, 4x4 that does more offroad than some GM and fords.... gotta admit 700+ hp outta the box is like... yea.. shear power..

400 HP??!! whoa must be a HUGE electric motor if you figure your high end V6 makes say 250 hps well, you talk horsepower like you know horsepower... Chevy knows horsepower.. youd have to sell, a lot of stuff http://www.paceparts.com/product.asp?0=239&1=242&3=209448