nige

check the intake hose between the filter box and intake manifold for cracks, leaks, loose clamps etc. Make sure all the vacuum lines running off it are good too. surging is a symptom of an intake leak after the maf.

yes, we had a plan to add a lateral support that bolts to the side of the frame to give that end more strength, it's just tricky because you don't want to make it hard to take the bumper off and on. the spine is .25" wall

what are you gonna do with the truck? If you are running trails, i would get some new 31" tires and armor first, then wheel it and go from there. Just make sure you do everything to prep the truck for off roading first. Yours looks well loved so make sure everything is mechanically sound before you venture off in the bush. also, add a cb to your list. it can save a life, or at the least a long walk

get something with a lifetime warranty. I think NAPA has a premium bj with it.

that would be a good idea. Water causes them to arc on the manifold instead of sending the current to the plug. get some dielectric grease and fill the bottoms of the boots. That should keep extra water out of there and give a good, clean path for the current to follow glad you figured it out

I agree with kingman. My engine always does that after you give it a good wash. It usually takes about 15-20 mins of running to dry it out., but you might need to spray some compressed air adn then wd-40 near the ignition stuff to completely dry it out. I tried dielectric grease on my boots and wire connections afterwards and it works better than nothing at all.

Tyler, if they cut you a big cheque to repair it, lmk, my brother is selling his 98 r50 as is with the same paint color as yours. the doors aren't rusty, and there are lots of good parts on it http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1998-Nissan-Pathfinder-All-Records-2nd-Owner-Good-Shape-As-Is-W0QQAdIdZ244010766

If the floor looks like that, i am wondering what the frame looks like. why not buy a truck that has a good 5speed in it? if your gonna part out this 'winter beater' in the spring, it would be nice to have a 5spd right there instead of going to look for another one.

i love it, but black ice and freezing rain on pavement can be sketchy

i've been using this air compressor for a couple years now: Titan Air Compressor It's works really good, and sometimes Duncan puts them on sale.

nismojunky suggested I race the engine after going through a muddy puddle one time. It kicked it back to life and it's been ticking ever since. Put a little digital panel voltmeter in your truck. they are under 10 bucks on ebay, and you can wire them to something under the dash. They will tell you when the alternator isn't pulling it's weight.

alternator is probably on it's way out

hey Dodgysam. I think all of the R50's around here have 33 spline axles. Not sure if Aus and NZ'ers got something different.

me too. Maybe if the log got wedged under the chassis and blocked the truck from getting pulled forward by the winch, but I imagine the winch would bog down, or you would realize the truck isn't moving before you just "pulled itself right off". The ARB bumper is a fine product. It only has a few welds holding it together as most of the angles are bent into it. Also nothing says you can't grind the paint off it and weld whatever you want on it (more light tabs, limb riser mounts etc.). By all means, you don't have to use it as is out of the box, Most people i know cut theirs in half and weld it back together so it fits a body-lifted truck properly. I challenge anyone to go buy or build something better and when it happens, i would love to see how it turned out. MuphDivin, show us some of your handywork; even if you haven't made one for a pathfinder/hardbody yet flexin94, you can look in my members rig thread for pictures of an arb that was modified for a body lift. I'm not sure how it would work with a 6" body lift, but you can get an idea of what you need to do to make it fit. If you change your mind, you can weld an old trailer hitch on the front of your frame and mount your winch on a plate with a receiver. Splurge and get the synthetic winch line. It's lighter and easier to care for than the traditional cable.

You can buy an electronic flasher that will solve the fast flashing you get after swapping bulbls. it's a lot easier than having to put a load equalizer on each line. http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=6

I am Mine are pro comp 1069's 15x8 3.75" neg. backspacing Pro comp Mud Terrain 33x12.5x15 They rubbed on the back and front of the front fender at full lock and stuff. I cut some of the fender away and pounded down a pinch seam with BFH. In the rear, they gobbled up the back of the stock fender flare on the passenger side, and caused a pretty big dent when they caught the bottom of the back of the rear fender. I've cut most of that metal away now and the factory flares are so flexible, they don't get damaged by the tire rubbing. When I REALLY stuff the back tire, they just barely graze the body right over the frame rail. I have no rear bumpstops, 3" body lift, 3" rear coils, rancho 5112's and a mildly lifted front end(need to reindex the t-bars). anything else you need to know, just ask. I think they fit very well with trimming, but I have never had a brand new set of 33's. Mine were about 1/2 worn out when i got them. I know some can be like 32.5" O.D. and some brands are closer to 33.5" O.D. That extra inch makes a difference when the wheels are at full lock and suspension is workin

cool, i never knew it had one on there. I guess you could tap the hole, add a fitting and run vacuum hose from it to somewhere that stays dry

you could throw a tarp over the hood like the aussies do. It works really well for keeping the water from splashing under the hood. Of course this does nothing if you don't have gap guards in your wheel wells. If you are going to wheel in a place that has a lot of muddy water crossings, i would get/make a snorkel. The tarp won't really help you if you get stuck in the middle of a water hole and lose your bow wave; neither will an airbox mod if you happen to dip the drivers front wheel in a deep rut submerging the headlight. Extend the breathers for your differentials to inside the cab, silicone around the distributor cap, manual hub dials, dielectric grease in all the spark plug wires. There is also a breather on the starter motor that you should extend to keep the water out of that too. Make sure your door seals are in good shape and you have no rust holes in the floor. It will slow the water spilling into the cab. Have a tow strap and recovery vehicle ready in case you don't make it all the way across and stall. If you can quickly retrive a stalled truck, it will minimize how much water you get inside. Once it's in there, it takes forever to dry out and instantly ruins your interior. I would get rid of the carpet and hope your leather seats don't get wet. Drill a hole in the lowest point of the floor boards and put a plug in there to drain them if they happen to fill up. I like how the russians fasten all the electronics (comms. radio, ecu) to the cabin roof to keep them dry, they really aren't shy when it comes to the deep stuff.

After letting my rocker panels rust out, I decided it was time to get some rock sliders to protect them. I got a good deal on some 2x3" 1/4" wall steel, and some 1 7/8" or so tubing and took the material over to Bender's to start building a set of sliders. We decided to make them bolt on, so they could be easily removed for repainting and cleaning purposes. The first thing we did was get the measurement for the length, which was just long enough to clear the front tires. The ends were cut on an angle so they don't catch, and capped with 1/4 plate to protect them: After that we made some stand offs out of 1/4" plate and 2x2" square stock. I drilled mounting holes in the frame and got some hardware to fasten them with. We clamped everything together in the right position and tacked them together: Bender welded them up and I took them home, gave them a coat of self etching primer, and a quick rattle can job the day before I left for Moab. When I got back, Bender and I bent the round tube and tacked it to the outside of the 2x3. That was the hardest part I think. It was tricky to get the angles right and have the tube somewhat flush to the 2x3. I don't have any pictures of that process, just the finished product mounted on the truck: From the side: you can see how much they stick out from this angle: The 2x3 tubing is supposed to take the brunt of an impact while the round tubing offers a place to stand on as well as act as pivot points for trees etc. They are also useful when there is no dock at the boat launch. The round tube is also thick enough to take some bumps off rocks, and support the full weight of the truck when lifting with a jack. There are 2 supports for the round tube to make sure they don't bend in the middle. They are cut from the same stock as the 1 7/8" round tube. The only other thing i am going to do is go to the skateboard shop and get some grip tape for the tops of the round tube. The paint gets scratched too easily if you have small pebbles stuck in the treads of your boots. So same as the rear bumper, i would like to hear your thoughts on the sliders. Is there anything you would have done differently or change? I like all feedback, not just the good stuff. Now we just have to figure out what we're gonna make next

OK, i got some good pictures of the "finished" product. I think we will still modify the "wings" to make them a bit stronger by welding some supports to span the bottom of the wing and bold to the frame so you can still remove the bumper. I had to chop out the bottoms of my rear quarter panels (they were rusted to shiat anyways), but I am very pleased with the way it turned out. It slides into the frame which we also reinforced and is held on with 4 large bolts. It also has a 2" receiver with safety chain attachments, 3/4" shackle mounts and these nice little waterproof LED floodlights for extra area lighting. Here is a rear view: and one from the corner: As with the rock sliders, I have already taken a couple hits with it in moab and the last few trail runs i have been on with the CNTC. It's held up very well and i am thankful i have it. my old chrome bumper would have looked pretty sad by now. So what do you guys think? is there anything that you like or would have done differently? I don't want write all this and not hear any criticism.

i still use my factory bottle jack, but now I need to put it on top of one of these deck blocks to give me enough lift: you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a pathfinder jack in the junkyard

the FSM outlines how to test the functionality of the O2 sensor. I think you need a multimeter and a paperclip to jump the terminals. FYI i'm on my 3rd o2 sensor. the first one threw a code, the second one didn't I unplugged the second one and the truck ran better, so i replaced it. I need to test the one i currently have because my engine is running rich.

these new fram filters are much better than the orange ones. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1845821&page=1 they are built as well as any other premium filter out there I used to use the tough guard series, but i have never sacrificed one to see whats inside. I did cut one open after I changed it out for a new one, and everything was still intact. Now i have been using napa gold and they work fine. I will usually change my filter at 5000km and then change the filter and oil at 10000k. I used to use castrol, but i have switched over to synthetic oil. I tried mobil 1 and now I use royal purple since the last 3 oil changes. I didn't notice a difference in power etc. The oil is still dirty when I drain it. I hear that you won't realize the benefits of oils with detergents immediately. more like 4 changes later and by that time, you will have forgotten how it drove that long ago. 5w30 winter 10w30 summer

pathorado chevfinder as in chevron lol

i am pretty sure the recessed side faces out. wait for someone else to chime in. post a pic of the washer. i don't recall mine having that part in them.