Frenchy

If need be take your time to clean every single ground thoroughly. I used to do Automotive Mechanics under Nissan and at the Training center in Ontario California the Instructors and Engineers stated that Nissan Has Very Poor Grounds!

The Inhibitor Relay is simply a starter interlock at a basic level. For an auto it will not let the starter engage unless in Park or Neutral. For the Manual it makes you push in the Clutch pedal or press and hold the interlock switch on the dash(mainly meant for OffRoad purposes for the dash switch). With what you have going on I would highly recommend getting another set of eyes on there to see what's going on. I suspect this could be something simple and silly as there is no good reason for this to happen.

I can't speak for Read Head and I only heard about them within the last year. Marvel I found out about years ago after dealing with a very poorly made A1 Cardone Garbage Rack on the 280ZX. It literally was a night and day difference

If I replace the box it will definitely be a particular band. That brand I speak of is Maval Gear. I ended up getting a steering rack from them for my old 83 280ZX I had. Yes it was reman but it was AWESOME

Yeah I still got nothing on the Polyurethane replacement at this time. At the moment I have a Lares on the way and RoclAuto was the best price including shipping. As for the current feel in steering you can tell there is an initial lag going left or right. Mind you I have good steering linkage, already took care of the strut rod bushings and cups(that was a huge difference alone) and I'm still on 31's at about factory height or just above. As much as I won't argue that the control arm bushings to to be considered, I'm suspecting the rag joint now. And don't worry I have already made the adjustment on the steering box

A steering coupler alone being polyurethane would not transfer that much vibration to the cab. You're probably thinking of the engine mounts. I've seen those cause a lot of vibration on an old S10 I used to have. That was something else

Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if the original coupler is plenty soft being 31 years old. Of course Nissan doesn't show a replacement part by itself and I have seen the Lares coupler. I did a simple look on the Lares and it seems to be a decent one for what it's worth. Compared to others I can't speak much. As for a Polyurethane Coupler I can promise can feel much better especially when it's the correct composition. That is the key thing with Polyurethane.

So I have a suspicion that my Steering Coupler/Rag Joint is a bit worn out. That said I am curious if anyone might know if there is a Polyurethane replacement available? As much as a solid metal one sounds, I feel the factory rubber or Polyurethane would be way more forgiving. What I have found is a replacement rubber one for the D21 and WD21, and I have found a polyurethane for the 240SX and the Old Datsun Z. Any help on this would be great

On the sending unit, good luck. These things are easily 30 years old of not more. If the next one doesn't work then buy a new one from the dealership. For the price it isn't that bad. And if you wonder why I say it's not that bad, I bought my 93 for $1000 and by the time I am finished with it I will have $20,000 invested into it

The fuel pump is secured to the sending unit, but you can replace the sending unit by itself with no problems. I did it last year on my 93

Because I'm not familiar with the electronics speedometer on the 94 and 95 I can't speak too much for the odometer and trip meters. As for the fuel gauge chances are you have a bad sender. You can still get a new sending unit from Nissan. It is pricey but it works

Before you try to take it off and replace it why don't you do some diagnosis? If you go to Nico club you can get the service manual if you don't have it already. Take your time to go through the diagnosis steps for whatever code you have and you will be able to figure out the exact problem. If you are not confident in your diagnostic abilities I would highly recommend taking it to someone you trust that has very good diagnostic capabilities.

Also don't get SE confused with SE Sport. The SE Sport comes with factory LSD Rear Disc Brakes adjustable shocks sun roof fog lights rear tire swing and roof rack. The shocks and brakes are the big notations to the package.

Wrong speed sensor. That one is for the speedometer only. Look at your rear axle and you will see it wrapped around the pinion on the axle. It's a pricy thing.

Something to remember about the ABS on these vehicles. With it only being rear wheel ABS you can still lock up your front tires. You won't get any clicking through the brake pedal when it does operate. Even mine doesn't do that. All it does when it is working correctly is lower brake pressure to the rear brakes by whatever amount is needed according to the logic in the controller so the rear tires do not lock up and you have less chance of going into a skid. Thanks to do to help ensure things work correctly is making sure your brake pads rotors and calipers are in great shape along with making sure you bled the entire system including the actuator. Also if you have rear drums instead of rear disc brakes because you don't have an SE sport then good luck on getting that rear wheel ABS to work. Drum breaks are a pain in the ass to work with and make it hard for the rear ABS to do its job.

You definitely need to diagnose it. It is a very simple system. You have the controller, the actuator and the speed sensor on the rear axle. Before ordering parts(since they are pricey) you are best to diagnose first

Good to know and appreciate the update. Just looked up that particular valve and we.lile to call it the "Cold Start Valve" since it allows air in when Cold and shuts off(closes) once warmed up enough.

Sounds like a first to me. I would highly suspect the seal around the windshield since there are times it does not always get sealed well when replaced(had that with a few Nissan Car's before). If the windshield was replaced that would be my first guess. If not it might be work having a local shop look at it

I won't argue that it will depend on both the body shop and the insurance company. 4 years ago I ended up rolling a 92 and it was already in such poor shape that it was a loss. I miss it though since I found out I was older than it by ONE Day!!!

Can't speak for the Automatic much as I did have one 4 years back for a month at best(until I rolled it). With the Manual it definitely becomes fun to say the least. As for the LSD it really comes down to having the right oil. If mixing an additive with synthetic I can promise it does.not work well at all as I have learned from experience

Yep, a OEM Nissan one. I found it right after posting this thread. As for temps that low I would guess that a Synthetic Gear Oil would help with that. I already plan to swap to all the Motul oils and the Transmission Oil is GL-4 and full synthetic. That is the Gear 300. They also have Gear 300 LS for the Factory LSD if that applies to you. I'm sure that might help to an extent

I won't argue the benefit of one as I have seen it make a huge difference on a Diesel Engine in the Colorado Rockies. I have also noticed how the VG30E wants to struggle in the below 0° temps which I am currently dealing with now. Funny thing is I found a NOS Block Heater off eBay and have it coming my way as we speak. Hopefully it won't be too bad. Also if I remember correctly the passenger side front of the block should have fair access from underneath(even though it is 4WD).

Hello all that might still be lingering around(though I can tell there isn't much). Due to this lovely weather we are having I have taken the time to decide that a Engine Block Heater would be a great idea for my 93 Pathfinder. Since I'm going through a VG33E I figure I might as well install it on that since the VG30E is holding up for now. Who here has installed a Block Heater and had success? What Block Heater did you use and where did you install it? And to clarify I am speaking of the coolant heater, not the oil heater.

For those that have a reground cam(Schneider, Isky, Colt, etc) in your VG30E/33E, what grind did you go with and do you have any extra valvetrain noise due to the extra slack from the base circles being cut down? My main concern is the cam being cut enough that the lifters end up having play even with oil pressure causing extra noise and wear. I would like to avoid if possible

So I am currently in the process of changing the starter cable along with the alternator charging cable and all the fusible Link connections to the more modern fusible Link block that Nissan has on the newer vehicles(I think the design chang happened in the early to mid 2000's). With that said I am trying to figure out all the different amp ratings of all the fusible links. I know there are 3 different colors for the 5 that come off the battery. You have the Green that is rated for 40 AMPS and the Black that is rated for 80 AMPS. There are also the 3 Brown Fusible Links that supply power to the ECM and Headlights, but I don't know the rating for them. Who might know the actual rating? BTW I have already seen the color code chart posted on other Forums and they only mentioned Pink, Green, Red, Yellow, Black and Blue. It did not mention Brown at all. And no I'm not going to take the wire off to match it up.