Frenchy

The factory thermostat on the VG30 is 170°F. Combine with the very efficient fax clutch these dont have issues with overheating. If it does overheat then you have a problem elsewhere.

So I'm glad I found this post. Just want to clarify some things for my 93. Already have a VG33E that will get swapped using the VG30E electronics. If I wanted to add the supercharger I shouldnt have to change much at all?

Been a while, but whats the chamce you still have this somewhere? The link is no good

So for m my 1993 I already have a VG33E that i plan on swapping. Something that I have been curious of is possibly doing the supercharger as well. I have done the search but havent had much luck(not going to lie, not a fan of the search function). My questions are followed, 1 can I run the VG30E throttle body? 2 without a body lift with the supercharger clear the hood? 3 with the exception of the tune and the pulleys what all is needed?(already plan to run the VG30 electrical)

That is something I was thinking of. You can monitor that and its easier to check codes without having to go upside down

I will doubt the more wear from a thinner fluid. Why you ask? There are older transmissions(look at the 4 and 5 speex from the early Z cars) that say 80-90 GL4 or ATF(usually DEXRON 3). That is why i am curious. As for potential damage? Well I already plan to replace the transmission with a rebuilt one anyway. Synchro 4 is having some issues.

Alrighty, so as we all know Nissan Manual Transmissions take GL-4 for certain reason. It is also known that some will ask for ATF(DEXRON 3). I didnt see it in the book but I am curious if anyone has attempted to use ATF in their 5 Speed? If so what was the outcome?

So i got it fixed. Yesterday I started to dive into it before making any rash decisions. I was also having a lack of flow as well. I took the blower resistor out and found a bunch of junk in there. Cleaned all that out(already have the updated grilles). After that I started to look at the temp and mode door actuators. I dis notice the temp going full cold before commanding full cold(didnt seem right but left it be). Went to the mode door since it likes to get stuck in defrost. I did lubricate all the cams and I took the actuator apart. I didnt take the gears out, just the cover. I lubricated it and put it back together. The mode door then started to move better but still gets stuck. Migh have a bad contact in the actuator. Just need to find another and go through it before I do anything there. From all that the flow was drastically improved, but the temp not so much. Today after getting home I dived back in going to the temp actuator. This time I did the adjustment(set full hot then adjust the door all the way hot). After that the heat was fixed and I am now comfortable. A pain but it is what it is.

Just saw this and will probably do this in the future. Will make things nice for preforming checks.

As the title states I have poor heat out of the vents when its cold out. When the temperature is in the 40's to 50's its not too bad and will get you sweating. Freezing temps and it will barely defrost the windshield. Im already suspecting the heater core being plugged. I also understand it isnt a fun job for what all has to be done. That said has anyone gotten lucky by doing just a flush with a garden hose on the Heater Core?

Thankfully I have plenary of tools available and possibly a shop available(if my work lets me). I suspect I can do it all in one day. It will most likely take me all day though

That is what I like to hear. Now to make the time to do the job

So i plan to replace all the trailing arm bushings soon along with the panhard bar bushings. What I'm curious about is do you have to jack the vehicle up or can you get away with leaving it on the the ground on all 4 and doing one link at a time?

Dont know how hard it is, but be aware that 93 has the last year of the square dash. It also has a 1 year only cluster

1991 with an LSD should be Disc in the rear with in hat drum parking break. You might be able to do it with tires on the ground, but I havent done many like this. If have to you can call a local drivetrain shop to help. You can also remoce the diff fairly easily. Just remove the wheels and breaks, then you can slide the axles out enough to pull the diff.

In 2WD it does just fine. Omly in 4WD it has the issue.

An alignment was done, but that doesnt mean it was done right. I plan to take it in again

So I have a 1993 SE Sport. Still running the IFS. Already replaced my steering linkage(it was worn out) along with new ball joints. I also replaced the left CV Axle(inner boot torn). Along with all this I did lift it a little with Sway-A-Way torsions and Old Man EMU shocks and rear coils. Before all this was dont the Pathfinder was doing just fine. After all this I get torque steer when in 4WD and im on the throttle. To explain the torque steer I cant keep the steering center when on the throttle. It will go either left or right and not want to stay center. Before this it had no problem staying center. Anyone have an idea as to why?

I did get an LED kit off EBay for the AC controls. They work well. For the dash it would be best to just the regular incandescent bulbs. Sometimes LED bulbs can get finicky and not always shine light correctly in something not designed for LED's.

Probably due to time i am undable to see the light difference from stock to new. Can you post them again? I have a set on the way for me as well. Hard to go wrong with IPF

Its not that the cylinder is frose up, just when you turn the key it does a 360. If it can be rebuilt then it's my best option in the near future. Nothi g wrong with getting a lock Smith or transfering the keys from one to another.

So i need to replace(or rebuild?) The drivers door lock cylinder. Since most replacements come with a key im curious if anyone might know of a kit to replace all the lock cylinders and the ignition cylinder so i have a matched set!! If not what about rebuilding the lock cylinder?

Can't say if they will fit one another but I can say the pressure should be fine

Best option would be to go to a local auto parts store and find the closest body clips they have

The Distributor is what sends signal to the ECM for Fuel and spark pulse. If you threw a code for that then its possible you had bad luck of that going. Also I recommend doing a general check of all grounds