Frenchy

What you have pictured is what I noticed. The one second from the right is the Engine Oil Temp Light. It is mentioned in the Owners manual for the VG30E (US manual doesn't mention engines besides the VG30E and KA24E). looking in the FSM I could.not find anything on it and I'm wondering if there might be some kind of program in the ECM that calculates Engine Oil Temp based on other parameters. Being that old it is possible but unknown.

Correct, the owners manual is what is in the glove box

I did look in the bezel and there is a spot for the AT Oil Temp as well, but no bulb and wiring. All depends on the factory setup I guess

It was specified for the VG30E in the operators manual. After looking in the FSM I couldn't find any info on it. Is is the last year of the square dash with the 1 year only cluster and the warning is in the bezel on the right side with the AT Temp, ABS light and 4WD light. Being a 5 speed the AT warning does not have wiring or a bulb.

While messing with the instrument cluster I noticed my 1993 SE Sport has an Engine Oil Temp Light and it does have a bulb with power available. Where is the sensor supposed to be hooked up? I plan to look in the FSM soon to see if I can find it, but I was curious if anyone here knew anything?

Heat and a press? If you can manage that you should be golden. Also check into a machine shop. Perhaps they can remove it without damaging the pitman arm. Just have to remove the pitman arm from the box. Just make sure you mark it.

From stock the lift height will be about 0.75 inches. With my Pathfinder it went up about 2 thanks to the worn out suspension

From personal experience I have found a few factors to take effect on how well the MPG is or isn't. First off thanks to how the old Automatics were it's much easier to get fair MPG with a Manual. Also tire weight is another factor. My current set of tires are the Firestone Destination XT's in 31x10.50x15. these are 5 LBS lighter a piece compared to the BFG KO2 in the same size. Doesn't sound like much but it makes a difference as it requires less power to move them and keep them moving. Also if you don't try to drive for MPG then it becomes a pain to get good MPG.

I cants say if the wire changes positions or not between the two but I can say that if the cluster from the 91 fits then I would recommend using that. Why you ask? Well it gives it an updated look and you know it works. As long as the needles aren't broken you should be good. Also for odometer correction you can go into the speedometer (it's able to be removed) and you can turn the numbers on the clock(you have to be careful doing this so you don't damage stuff).

That is why I specifically mentioned the IPF 820H Headlight housing. It changes the pattern to more of a Projector style and is meant for a Halogen bulb. With just that alone I makes a huge difference. The relay kit helps a bit too!! Tonight I installed the IPF 80/110 watt bulbs and testing them out with the housings. Much brighter to say the least and don't have the silly led light look. Here is a link to that housing ARB (820H IPF 7" Rectangular H4 Headlamp Insert https://a.co/d/4BLVyEL

I would suspect a bad connection somewhere or something up with the Idle Air Control. If you don't have one already get a service manual first. After that go to the symptoms diagnosis for troubleshooting. You don't want to throw parts at this. That gets expensive quick.

That is exactly it. It gives you the 5x7 type headlight and allows you to drop any 5x7 rectangular headlight housing in there. Best part is it's direct bolt on.

If you want to do an upgrade to the headlights in the future follow these little steps. #1 do the D21 headlight bucket swap. Either get a pair from the junk yard or Flea Bay. #2 get the IPF 820H headlight housings. They take H4 bulbs. #3 get yourself a set of H4 Halogen lights that you want(any will work) and the new connectors. Once it's all said and done you will be Happy. I'm running that right now with the relay recently added and it's bright and way better focused!!

If you don't already have one I suggest getting the wiring diagram for your Pathfinder and start troubleshooting with a volt meter. Don't know how to do this? Get a friend to help that knows how to do so or take it to a local shop you trust to diagnose it. Best advice since there are many possibilities

Should be. Thankfully the two bodies share quite a bit of things

If you are able to get pictures that would help as well. Might just send you a message

The ones underneath is what I'm going to need. To my understanding the ones through the bumper use the bumper mounts.

That still does not answer my question

I'm surprised you removed that much. I'm able to do it without removing the seats or the center console.

Its isn't mount as of now because I'm waiting for it to arrive

Almost sounds like a ignition switch. That said I would recommend getting a factory service manual and going to the symptoms troubleshooting before replacing more parts. Also there is a chance it's something very simple that you are missing

Why use a manual transmission fluid to a diff.that requires a diff fluid? I used Castrol 80w-90 with Limited slip additive built in and it does well

Ignition module

Question for those with the OEM Brush Gaurd. What bolts are used for mounting them? I just scored one off Flea Bay and i don't believe it has the hardware but the mounting tabs are in good shape. Really just need to know the bolt size and pitch.

It does sound like you have a bad Idle Air Control Valve. That said I would suggest going into the Factory Service Manual and looking at the Symptom Diagnosis charts. It will drastically help when diagnosing problems before just replacing parts.