Frenchy

You can remove the manifolds with the studs in there. There is a chance some studs will come right out with the nuts.

That is correct. The VG30 uses 8x1.25 studs for the exhaust. Also you can remove the manifolds without pulling the Y Pipe.

I really want to do this to the VG33E I have for my 1993 Pathfinder but unfortunately the shim washers are going extinct. Anyone have some extra laying around?

Here is the answer strait from the Valvoline website. Make it much easier and more cost effective for us with the Nissan Manuals!! https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/synchromesh-mtf/

It's ok to question it. If you go strait to Valvoline's website and you can get the answer. That is how I found out.

You mean overpriced stuff? You can get Valvoline MTF for about $10 a quart at your local auto parts store. Should I mention it meets the specifications?!

As the others mentioned a VG30E will be the cheapest. That said a VG33E will swap in and will work without the crank adapter mentioned above. If you manage to get a Frontier or Xterra VG33E you only have to worry about swapping lines for the SC. The rest bolts right up.

I have found that either removing the shifter or shifter housing is more than adequate. Also make sure you have GL4 Transmission fluid or the transmission will have problems.

So from listening to the sound on the video I am wondering if this is actually rod knock or an exhaust leak at the manifolds due to manifold bolts breaking off(yes the VG30's had this happen quite often). Best way to check the manifold studs is to remove the heat shields and inspect. Spray a penatrating lube and let it soak before removing the bolts so they dont break.

If the headlights are LED's then there is a possibility. Aftermarket LED lights can cause some odd iddues. I had some LED brake amd tail lights and it somehow caused an issue with the turn signals and running lights.

If lucky you can find them at the scrap yards. For the rear its nothing too special. Only the front had heated seats.

The steering stabilizer is nice to have for OffRoad. It simply helps you control the steering on the trail. For the shocks I got them off Amazon. The shocks have one set of valving in them that can't be changed and no need for changing. As for the tires I did look at a few different brands, but being a Firestone guy i decided to stick with the Firestones and I have been happy.

Just wanted to add that the Old Man EMU 2608 will not fit the Pathfinder. The front uses Torsion bars, not coil springs. The Sway-A-Way Torsion Part number is 1458 and a few different places have it available. When i ordered mine it took avout 2 weeks to get them. The shocks and springs were within a week. The Old Man EMU shocks are 60031 and 60032. The steering stabilizer(if you can find it) is OMESD35.

I have a 1993 and I put the Old Man EMU shocks, steering stabilizer and rear coils on along with the Sway-A-Way torsions. On the 4 door it went up about 1 inch from stock and 2 inches from sagging. A 2 door may go up a little more thanks to being a little lighter ride I can speak for. In general it is nice and ballanced. Not to stiff and not to soft. For OffRoad it will still flex just fine for my needs. Thanks to the torsions I put on I have the ability to run a heavy bumper or brush gaurd and simply adjust. For the tire I went with Firestone Destination XT in 31x10.50x15. It is lighter than the KO2 and General Grabber and foes way better on traction both wet and dry(this is speaking from experience). I have ran it OffRoad and have been amazed by them. For a review from the Ranger Forums you can see a extensive review I made when i had my Ranger and a Work van. https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/firestone-destinaton-xts-anyone.16856/ Hipe that helps

The washers for the tension rod come with new bushings, so your statement wont apply there. Also hardware from the scrap yard will most likely ve worn out enough where it wont lock in place.

So i found out it is a M16x1.5. Found it on a different Forum for what its worth. If you are lucky you can get it at a local hardware store vs the dealer for the same style nut.

Even with the higher quality of lubricants today Nissan still recommends every 30K for the Diff and Transmission for vehicles today. That said not many folllow it because many have the mindset that "maintenance is a scam!".

Where is the yellow wire normally supposed to go? I would suspect it has a problem on its circuit that caused your issue

For Nissan Vehicles its good practice to go ahead and change the Diff Oil and Transmission oil(both auto and manual) every 30K. Simply helps keep things fresh and extends the life of all the parts

Actually it is. It is known as Matic D and you can get it from Nissan and online. Unfortunately it is pricy but it is the stuff. Genuine Nissan OEM Matic-D Transmission Fluid 999MP-AA100P (5 Quarts) https://a.co/d/g98TPqN

That would most likely be a leaking transmission cooler hose/line. I dont remember what parts were metal, but the rubber hose is usually first to go. It does go along the right side of the engine. If lucky you can fix it yourself

Where on the axle does it look like it is leaking? Something to be aware of is the axle shafts do have a little bit of a breather hole in the center. If the axle breather for the axle itself(hose near the center of the axle assembly) gets clogged then the brether hole at the end will seep a little. Clean out the breather hose and that will most likely solve your problem. If it's.more like a wheel seal then its a different story.

I did not think of that, I appreciate it

You may be right if the hardware store doesn't have it. At the same time I have had a hardware store surprise me. Also I have seen them carry things and much bigger thread pitch. That is why I'm trying to find out

So instead of going to the dealer and paying shipping I'd rather just go to the hardware and get a new nut for the engine rod. My question is does anyone here know right off what the red size is for that nut?