FirstGenFreak

I prefer carbs, plus we don't get a say in it with Australian Z24s, we never got the Z24i. I've ran the Weber DGV for over a decade and only had fuel starvation going up one hill that was nearly vertical. Note you'll need to run a different (low pressure) fuel pump to facilitate the carb conversion.

That's exactly how I did mine.

Man they do look great. I'd love to find one and make a fibreglass copy.

I'd love to do that on mine, disc rear axles are rocking-horse poo here in Australia.

Everyone has a favorite tire, so this can be a can of worms! I've had a good run from Maxxis Buckshot/Bighorns but they do have thin sidewalls. Best of the cheaper brands. My last set I bought were the Toyo R/Ts and these are a ripper tire. Halfway between an All-Terrain and a Mud Tyre.

That's what I have done in the past and will be doing to my current truck. You'll need longer travel shocks too. My personal experience is that If you don't beat your rig to crap on the rough stuff it will last okay. Using OEM or good quality Japanese (like TRW or 555) suspension parts where possible helps with longevity. Also get yourself an idler arm brace.

Correct, you can get away with factory brake hoses on a suspension lift if you keep it to around 2". I'd go that way personally, although I prefer the superlift UCAs over the 4x4parts version (plenty of threads discussing that on here). Because you're not altering the relationship between the body and the frame this way, you don't have to mess with your bumper mounts. You're also adding the clearance at the lowest point. (bottom of frame/transfer case). Body lifts are really only adding value if you need more tyre clearance. Good luck with it!

Yes if it is a body lift. May need to drop your radiator too, depending on engine and fan combination on your car.

Very nice!

Very nice (for a 4 door :P)

4x4parts.com carry their own UCAs and the superlift parts. I'm a fan of the superlift.

Spray carb cleaner or starting fluid around every hose connection and gasket joint in the intake system. When you hit the offending spot you'll notice a change in engine RPM and maybe even a puff of smoke. Also look at your EGR valve.

Spray foam will just collect and store moisture. My proven method is to spray first with a rust convertor, which neutralizes rust (and it will form almost instantly on an exposed weld) and then irrigate the area with either Lanolin or Fish Oil. Also, use some seam sealer to fill the gap where the wheelarch meets the sill, do it before you spray the colour and it will look nice.

It will except the rear shocks and shackles. This kit is to suit a pickup - they run leaf springs in rear. Not sure on your sport mode. Probably cheaper to go and buy a set of UCAs, shocks and source some secondhand jeep springs for the rear. .

Repaired the guard today, cut the section out of the D21 2wd at the wreckers For those that didn't know, the 2wds have smaller wheelarches which means the bottom of the guard is about 1" wider - last time I did this repair I just cut straight across above the lower bodyline and welded the whole bottom on. In this case I had to section it down. Welded in, light skim of filler and a coat of generic rattlecan white... Now it's ready to go back on the car next time I'm up at the property, which will be after lockdown at this point. I'm pretty happy with it. Till next time stay safe out there -FGF

I use postimages.org.... Photobucket is no good unless you pay.

Removed the drivers guard to do a rust repair, a bit worse than I originally thought but this is the only rust in the entire car, so I can live with it! Found a 2wd D21 king cab at my local wreckers (interestingly I very nearly bought this car about 4 months ago, now I've got a few bits off it for the WD.) Snipped the bottom off the RH guard to help in my repairs, should get the repair done over the weekend. More small, slow updates soon Stay safe and healthy FGF

Replaced fuel sender/pickup unit, blew all the varnish out of the fuel lines. Fitted a new carb, new fuel hoses front-to-back. Fired straight up and with the timing adjusted idles like a swiss watch. Pulled the driver's front guard ready for rust repair. Will drop pics in later Stay safe all. -FGF

Most idling problems I have come across have either been a vacuum leak or a dodgy EGR valve.

Not specifically but I have had a good run out of their shocks in general (A-Body Mopar) if that is any help.

Agreed best results are with relays and good uprated halogen globes, that way you improve the low beams without blinding others and improve the hi beams. Can always augment with a light bar or foggies.

Mr_Reverse you're a lucky man.

Will have a look for you. There is a guy on our local FB group selling a complete axle, he might be happy to remove the backing plates? can put you in touch?

I think you're nuts if you don't. My WD21 is 300km away at another property and I can't go and work on it due to lockdown. I live in a small unit & have a single garage which currently has my half-restored dodge dart and my Harley electraglide parked perpendicular in front of the dodge.…. So full I can't even move in there. It's real sucky so If you have the room and means to do things, remember that I am jealous…. And enjoy!

I can check eBay Aus for you, just let me know the items