PathyGig12

Pronghorn trail was a good one. There was a nasty steep downhill somewhere along the way, can’t remember where exactly. All I remember was being 9 years old on a TTR90 scared @!*%less when my wheels locked up on dirt covered rock and I slid all the way down. Good times

Was considering doing all of mine red but I’m too lazy to take them out. Especially the fronts

When I lived out there Gorman was the go to spot for dirt biking and wheeling. Great place but it can get pretty crowded sometimes

She’s a beauty, I’ve always loved the red Pre-facelifts

Pretty sure Etsy has them. I might be wrong but the user making them should be “pathmaker productions”

Thanks for weighing in guys, I appreciate the responses. I guess this week I’ll try to throw on the new one and hope for the best. Being in Colorado and it’s almost winter, I don’t like the idea of bypassing the throttle body but I could always do it as a sort of seasonal thing maybe? That would at least double the life of the new IAC

Hey thanks man, that’s some good info there. It does leave me a bit confused though. Number one, is this issue isolated to the nissan VQs, or do other engines run coolant through their IAC valves as well? In either case, why would the part be made of something susceptible to corrosion by coolant if it was designed to run this way? I’m not talking about the motor by the way, I’m talking about whatever part of the valve is being corroded and allowing coolant to get to the motor. And on top of that, does this mean that regular cleaning of the IAC wont help to stop the issue with corrosion? Number 2, would a gasket change offer the same protection as swapping the entire part? Is the gasket keeping the coolant out or is it the metal structure of the unit that keeps the coolant from getting into the motor? If so, which gasket? Surely not the one around the edges that keeps air out?

Hey guys So I know there are some threads about this topic but I’d like to get the current consensus and most up to date info that the community has. My plan is to swap out my IACV before it goes bad because I have 285K in the original part and I know it’s famous for taking the ECU down with it when the resistance drops too low in the motor. My question for you guys is which manufacturer would you recommend and what the processes is for re-teaching idle afterwards (or if this is even necessary if the part is swapped while still in good working order). How many success stories are out there, any bad failures after a swap? Specifically when the part is being changed preventatively. Every post I saw when researching this part has involved replacement after failure and a need to repair the ECM at the same time Edit to add: I’ve heard mixed reports on the Hitachi part, but I always thought that it was OEM? How could it be worse than the OEM part which costs $200 if they’re both made by hitachi? I already have the hitachi sitting in the garage and don't want to resell it and look for a nissan OEM if they both have the same chance of failure Oh yeah and one more thing. I noticed that the Motor is a separate piece, is there a way to swap just the motor since that’s the part that will fail? Or maybe even rebuild it? I saw some ebay sellers of what looks like the motor but can’t find a part number on rock auto

My truck does have a clunk but usually only when there’s a weight transfer while turning, both forward and reverse. So if you are backing up out of a parking spot and tap the brakes to switch to drive again, it’ll do the clunk thing. But if I go very slowly and don’t use the brake much, no clunk. Is this what you’re describing? I don’t have any squealing while driving though So far I’ve pretty much ruled out CV joints and sway bar bushings or end links (all replaced), so I’m starting to consider tie rod joints and various mounts.

Take a look around the strut tower top hats in the engine bay, the drivers side is kinda buried under a few things so it’s possible I guess

Im struggling to see how the ECM could be affected by a lift install. As long as you didn’t have to weld anything, which you shouldn’t have had to do. I’m very interested in seeing what this turns out to be Pretty hard to believe that it could be a coincidence though

Oh yeah and small update. I picked up a second set of camber bolts to fix the wacky camber finally. With both bolts in, I was able to get the drivers side perfectly aligned but the passenger side doesn’t want to play as nice. I’ll try again today, it’s so hard to tell before putting the wheel on I also swapped out the drivers side CV with the busted boot while I was in there to see if that was the cause of the clunk, no luck. It seems to be coming from the passenger side anyway but I figured it was worth a shot anyway.

Whaaaaattttt???? Holy crap I never expected to see my truck in another members pic! That’s awesome man, my girlfriend works there and drives the rig to work sometimes. Says she gets tons of compliments lmao. Wonder why I don’t get as many when I’m driving it? Ha

Well the bushings didn’t help at all. Clunk is still the same.Damn. The inner boot on my passenger side tie rod is destroyed and it seems gritty in the joint so I’m leaning towards that now. Could still be a CV, right now I’m trying to source a second used OEM shaft so I can swap both together. I have one already that’s sitting in the back as my spare. I figure I’ll put on OEMs for the best strength and joint flexibility and take off the Cardones for spares

I think your truck looks great man. Not too much rake at all IMO, but it’s all up to what you prefer. If it were me I’d just add some cargo to the back lol I was actually having the opposite issue with the 9447s, they were a tiny bit too soft and my cargo heavy so I was getting a negative rake and had to bump up to the 9449s

Awesome. Bottom one looks like a professional commercial

Fair enough, if the bushings don’t fix it then I’ll look into the CVs more. But I’d also like to point out that I’ve notice these past two days that the clunk only happens when there’s a weight transfer, for example when I’m reversing and then tap the break or switched to drive and touch the gas. So to me that doesn’t sound like CVs. But then again a weight transfer to the rear can extend the front slightly more and make the CVs bind slightly, so it’s possible I guess.

As I mentioned, that was my first thought as well but the clunk would most likely be repetitive if it were coming from a bad CV. As of right now, I never get it more than once in either direction. It also seems to happen more when there’s a big weight transfer and faster movement. That said, my drivers side CV boot is definitely compromised so it’s conceivable that it could be getting gummed up in there. Might be worth replacing either way because I do have a spare OEM lying around. Bushings first though, then I’ll go from there

So I’ve been trying to figure out this weird new clunking sound coming from the front. It happens when I’m reversing close to full lock out of a parking spot in either direction, and sometimes it does it when I switch from reverse to drive while the wheels are still turned and start going forward. Sometimes it’ll do both in a row. Sometimes nothing. And the intensity of the clunk varies from soft and subtle to “oh my god what did I hit” Every once in a while I get a soft version of it while going over bumpy terrain, or while making a sharp turn or braking suddenly, but nowhere near as bad as reversing. When it happens while reversing It sounds like something binding under tension and then releasing. My first thought was end links or CVs, but it’s not repetitive each revolution, and I replaced the end links a while back and have tightened them quite a lot to make sure they aren’t even slightly loose. Does anyone think it could be bad sway bar bushings? Maybe even tie rods? I changed the tie rods recently as well but one of the boots is compromised now and it’s possible some crap got in. I ordered the bushings to try since it’s the cheapest option on the list but I’m not entirely convinced it’ll work. Seems more likely to be steering related to me

Gotcha thanks. This has been on my list for a long time now, just been nervous about how much modding would be necessary

So for absolute clarity, my 2001 LE will have a 12mm for the upper mount? And all that’s required for adding the bilsteins is drilling out the mount to be 16mm?

Looks great man. Bold move on the spacer, I know it would messing with my head constantly knowing they were on there but hopefully you get lucky and it works out with your set up. Have you tried turning the wheels by hand while the truck was in the air to see if there’s any binding? Or how about at full lock?

Nice, I’m looking forward to the finished result man. About the grill, mind sending me a message with a pic or two when you have a chance?

The solar and fridge sounds like an awesome project, any updates yet?

Awesome thanks, that’s what I was hoping This is the one I’ll most likely go for https://www.carparts.com/details/Nissan/Pathfinder/Replacement/Grille_Assembly/2001/N070101.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=9089238399&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-af6BRC5ARIsAALPIlUtShFHmvJ1XQFmCshPGTZKD3uc891BF419i9ec1fVGfsoSin_u9b4aAmzNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds