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PathyGig12

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Everything posted by PathyGig12

  1. If you end up doing the swap, PLEASE document the process and share details about the differences. I’ve been contemplating swapping a manual tranny into mine for a couple years now but I need to know if it’s possible without a major overhaul. My transmission is bound to fail sooner or later and I’d love to have a manual in it when it goes from being my daily driver to my second vehicle. Just to confirm, you have a manual SE 2001? I’ve yet to see the transmission from these unicorns listed on eBay or anything. Is it the same one from the VG33? I always thought the 3.5 had too much torque for it?
  2. For now it’s just a 5 gallon wavian can on my spare tire carrier, but I’ve been planning a reserve tank for a while now. Something like a 7 gallon generator tank that sits in the spare tire well and has a pump that sends fuel into the return lines of the main tank. The problem is all the pressures and evap stuff that might get in the way. Also, even with a really high flow pump it would take like 10 minutes to transfer completely to the main tank.
  3. Looking forward to seeing your rig after the SFD!
  4. Shoot you’re totally right, it slipped my mind that he’d need the longer ones. The ones I mentioned are the ones I’d need with my 9449s
  5. I looked into it a bit and it looks like the one with the 27.5 length and same valving as the 5100s (255/70) will be the 25-187717. Hopefully R50JR can confirm Im also curious because you mentioned top out with the 5100s. Is the shock short enough that it tops out before the end links stop travel? And you said you’re running 9448s. Aren’t they meant for a 4 inch lift? Even with the 9449s I’m sitting around 3 inches in the rear while fully loaded with cargo
  6. Cool. Did you have to extend your brake lines? I’ve always been a bit confused about the rear flex variables. Whenever I swapped springs or shocks I’ve noticed that the main limiting factor besides the shocks are the End links, they always stopped downward travel way before the coils came out. So isn’t it impossible to loose a coil regardless of your shock length? And is the same true for brake lines?
  7. What’s the extended length on those guys? Any chance of them letting the coils fall out? Also whats the exact part number? I’m upgrading to bilsteins soon but can’t decide if I should go for the 5100s or just directly to the 5165s
  8. I was looking at the upstream O2s again and trying to get a good socket for them but I realized that I actually got the wrong ones.... Apparently the connectors are different for the 2001.5 model so I’m screwed because I bought these a year ago. Does anyone know the pin layout for the connectors? Maybe I can swap the wires on the wrong ones to the old connectors and reuse them
  9. Thanks man. Yeah the inspiration was just a desire to clean up the engine bay, plus maybe add a bit more power on the top end. The power increase is almost negligible so mainly the idea was to make it easier to get the intake off in the future without needing to wrestle with that huge airbox and be able to reach the headlight easier as well. Plus it’s much nicer looking now
  10. Mine has 288K on the clock and runs beautifully. Granted, I have changed a good deal of parts, but nothing I would consider to be a true “overhaul”. Just preventative items like injectors, a few sensors, intake stuff, alternator, PS pump, etc. The only thing I’ve ever had break and leave me “stranded” was a belt that snapped due to a bad idler pulley bearing. Everything else I’ve changed has been due to a minor evap code or preventative maintenance I will say that I tend to drive my truck more cautiously than some. I make a point to keep it under 3K rpm usually unless I’m on the highway climbing steep hills. I also baby the Auto transmission as much as possible. But for some other things I’ve gone a long time without any maintenance and haven’t had any issues. The cooling system has been rock solid and I never flushed it once in 5 years
  11. The plugs were NGK laser platinums, not sure of the part number of those. As for the break fluid, I think we flushed it a couple years ago but you’re right it’s probably due soon. I’d also like to do a radiator flush at some point.
  12. Update time! Yesterday I was finally able to do some engine work! I changed out all six injectors with brand new hitachi units, swapped out the aging spark plugs with some new NGK laser platinums, replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals, and put in a new PCV valve. Had some brittle hoses crack on me so I changed those out as well. Last but not least I put on a universal cone filter using a generic adapter plate I found online. The whole set up cost less than 30 bucks and it cleans up the engine bay SO much. What I really like about it is that I didn’t need to mess with relocating anything because it uses the standard intake for everything behind the filter so it’s basically still stock. I’m so glad I didn’t pay $300 for the full K&N kit What I wasn’t able to do was the front O2 sensors unfortunately. Those things are buried in the heat shielding and impossible to reach without the special socket that has a cutout in the side. I’ll have to source one first before attempting it. Im pretty pleased overall though. It’s incredible to look back at this past year and think about how much I’ve done to this truck! 1. New coils and shocks/struts 2. New tires 3. New rotors and pads 4. New brake booster 5. New chassis parts including control arms, trailing arms, ball joints, tie rods, CVs, end links, panhard, etc 6. new front wheel bearings 7. Fresh oil change in October 8. new fluids in front and rear diffs, as well as Tcase 9. New MAF sensor 10. New injectors 11. New plugs 12. New valve cover gaskets and tube seals 13. New pcv valve and vacuum hoses 14. New IAC valve 15. New factory style intake hose 16. Cold air intake filter 17. Steel bumpers front and rear 18. Tire carrier with gas can 19. Roof basket 20. forward facing, reverse, fogs, and interior map lighting, with central switch panel 21. underbody camera with dash monitor 22. Manual hubs 23. downstream O2 sensors 24. Fresh paint on fender flairs and bumper cover 25. New power steering pump 26. New alternator 27. New starter 28. Missing link Bar installed 29. Hi lift jack, shovel, fire extinguisher, and axe added 30. power valve screws tightened 31. New serpentine belts and idler pulley 32.new fuel filter 33. Acquired spare fuel pump (Not installed yet) Not sure if I missing anything, but that’s quite a list for a single year of work, especially on a low budget. I’m going to take a bit of a breather now with the holiday season, but next up are the upstream O2s, front diff bushings, new fan and fan clutch, and then I’d like to start working on my idea for a reserve gas tank in the spare tire well. After that I’ll be getting some bilsteins and then looking into some rust proofing underneath. Long term I plan to buy an ARB locker for the rear but that’s a long way off for now. Maybe get a SFD eventually and some 33s.
  13. hmmmm, that’s sounds like you’re talking about the 3 mounting nuts, because I know those are a significantly lower spec. I’ve always heard the main strut top nut was 100ft/lbs but I could be wrong? Edit: Wow I feel like a dumbass. I was confusing the top nut with the bolts that mount the strut to the spindle! The top nut is supposed to be around 50. Anybody know if too tight could be bad for it? Ha
  14. Best way to upload pics is through Imgur. Just make an account and upload straight from your phone, then you can copy the link and paste it into your NPORA post. As far as the strut mounts, I think the bearing would make noise while turning like you said, but the mount itself may not be so turning-dependent. The nut on top should have a torque spec of about 100 ft/lbs, so the best bet is to use a torque wrench on it. It’ll be roughly equivalent to the spec for the wheel lugs, so I’m not surprised you couldn’t get any movement with the ratchet. One thing you could do to test it is to try bouncing the corner of the truck while watching the top of the strut in the engine bay for looseness
  15. Earlier in this thread we were talking about those exact bushings. Mine are shot as well but now that I fixed the ball joint I can see that the clunk is not coming from those. That’s not to say that yours couldn’t be from it, but I have my doubts. They would have to be more shot than mine, and mine are pretty bad. Did you end up tightening the center nut on the struts yet? I still think your clunk could be strut mount related
  16. I think the best tire all around for the stock LE rims would be a 33” 10.5 wide with 1 inch spacers all around. You’d still be able to tuck the rears, have a decent stance, and good contact patch but not too wide that you’d need wider rims
  17. Yes sir, they fit perfectly fine without any spacers. The fact that they are only 9.5 wide means they can clear the struts easily, and I don’t have any rubbing because I removed the mud flaps and trimmed a little bit of the plastic in the fender wells. In the future I’ll probably upgrade to a set of 33”s that are full width. I love these tires on dirt and rock but they don’t float over snow as well as a wider set would. In deep powder I’ve noticed they can get kind of lost. I also prefer a “stanced” look, so wider would be nice
  18. Been driving in Colorado now for around 5 years with no corrosion issues so far. Before moving here I did some minor undercoating, but nothing too extensive. I have heard that the magnesium chloride is definitely worse than salt though. It won’t rust out your truck instantly but probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to spray down the undercarriage a few times while visiting
  19. For the sway brackets I think they came off pretty easy. They are 14mm I believe. But of course it’s always better to spray them down anyway just to be safe. Yours could be significantly more seized up than mine were
  20. The sway bushings don’t require taking off the end link. You just have to undo the brackets that support the middle of the bar and slip on the new bushings. 10 minute job You’re right about the bearings, I think you’re hear them while turning. Maybe the strut mounts are more likely
  21. Do the sway bushings first just because they are so cheap Maybe then go through the other areas recently replaced and retorque then to make sure everything is super tight? Did you check the top center nut on the strut? If it’s not tightened while the vehicle weight is on the wheels it may have some play in it edit to add: could also be a strut bearing going bad
  22. I found it!! I had my girlfriend back the truck up at full lock over a bump and saw that the clunk was noticeable in the strut but was coming from lower down, so I went behind the wheel and watched the control arm. Sure enough, the clunk was coming from the three studs that attach the ball joint to the control arm. You could visibly see it shifting as the clunk was happening. So I went and checked the torque on the nuts and of course they were super loose. Torqued them down properly and the clunk is 100% gone now. I’m just glad nothing failed catastrophically! Yikes The only question now is whether it did any damage to the ball joint itself or the control arm while going over pot holes and rough terrain? I think it’ll be fine but I’ll keep an eye on it. My current theory for how things got so loose is the anti-seize we used on the bolts during assembly. My dad was helping me and insisted it would help make them easier to change the next time. Well maybe it made them just a little too eager to come out lmao I also got excited because I thought maybe it tightening those nuts could have fixed my highway vibration issue as well, but no luck there. I’m still thinking that’s coming from the bad diff bushings. Oh well, I’m just happy that stupid clunk is now gone
  23. Pathy got me into some powder this week trying for a last minute solo elk hunt. Sea of orange meant I had to look for super remote forest roads to get lost and then hike in. No luck this time but had fun anyway. I’m still amazed how these trucks can just fire right up with no complaints after being parked for days at 11,000 feet in 5 degree weather. But she does need a good bath now.
  24. I tried to fit my 235/85/16 and there isn’t nearly enough clearance. My hitch has been replaced with a smittybilt Jeep bumper though so I can’t really say whether it may have worked originally I was bummed because it would have been nice to always have two full size spares. Planning to use that space for a reserve tank in the future though because it’s just too good to waste. Almost found a way to fit traction boards under there but it’s a little too tight
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