PathyGig12

Now that’s a fantastic pic!

Oh definitely. The top-outs happen a few times a week for me, but you can usually tell when it’s going to happen so you can go slow. It’s pretty widely accepted that topping out doesn’t damage anything anyway, and if it really bothered me I would just put some limiting straps on to stop the issue entirely. But I’m not super concerned with it, just an annoying clunk every once in a while.

Hey man sorry for the delay, I measured the heights for you. Right now my front is: 21” from the hub to the fender 36” from the fender to the ground And my rear is: 19.5” from hub to fender 34.5” from fender to ground Just like I thought, I’ve got a negative rake of about 1.5” because of all the weight in the rear. Once the 9449s go in, I should be back to about even, maybe a bit of positive rake

Took off the running boards, I’m loving the “visual lift” that it gives the truck. I never used them anyway, when I go for the roof rack I stand on the tire. I’ll take my chances with rocker damage, I don’t think I’ll be doing any intense rock crawling anyway It also shaved off 40 lbs or so, which helps take some load off the rear springs

Very interesting suggestion about unplugging the transfer case, never thought of that. But you’re right, it’s super complex and I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t like it The thing is, I know for a fact that the computer is doing stupid things because it’s confused about the lack of front shaft motion when the hubs are unlocked. But the way I see it, the vibration is significant enough to not be coming from the transfer case, so my theory is that it’s intermittently trying to engage the front and that’s why you get vibration as a pulse as opposed to the steady one which happens when the hubs are locked. The idea is if I can stop the vibration, the computers confusion will not be noticeable because it will still try to connect the front in error but that state won’t have any discernible difference. I’ve just accepted at this point that the hubs do not jive well with the transfer case Once I mount the camera I should know for sure whether my theory is true because you’ll see the front start moving even with the hubs unlocked

Thanks for the tip man, I haven’t checked the mounts yet, but I have a camera that I’ll try mounting close to the front diff to see if I can spot any movement while driving. But I’m wondering, if it’s coming from the front diff mounts, why would the vibration be pulsing when the hubs are unlocked? The front diff should be completely idle right? I changed both the transfer case and front diff fluids a couple weeks ago to rule out a lube issue

So I got tired of the “unfinished” look on the rear and ended up cutting the stock bumper cover to fit over the new bumper and tire carrier. Then I went and painted it charcoal metallic along with the fender flares. I think it came out pretty nice overall. The bumper could use a little more refinement to the cut outs, but it’s getting there. I haven’t managed to swap in the 9449s yet, which is a bummer. I gave it a go in my garage but wasn’t able to get the frame high enough to give myself clearance for dropping the axle, so I decided to wait until I have access to a two post lift again. In the mean time I’ll just lighten up the back to reduce sag lol. Next I’ll be trying to figure out this vibration issue. I’ve narrowed it down to the front drive shaft, so I plan to take off the shaft entirely to see what happens, and if the vibration disappears then I’ll bring it to a drivetrain specialist to balance it and check run out and Ujoints

The ones that fit the R50 are the model 29091, I believe Only thing to watch out for is the center bore on your wheels, some models i think the warns wouldn’t fit through the centers even though they fit properly on the axle shafts. Your wheels are different than mine so it’s definition something to check first. Don’t know much about those wheels so I’ll let someone else chime in if they do

I’ll measure it for you whenever I have a free second The wait time was about a week I think?

I would recommend swapping out the front coils for ACs. I have little to no rake with mine. I guarantee you can resell the ARB coils on eBay but it probably won’t be the fastest sell. Might be better off looking for someone on here who wants them, or maybe some of the other Nissan r50 communities?

This is the roof basket I went with, just a basic cheap eBay one. One thing worth mentioning is that I don’t know if this rack will fit on top of the OEM crossbars. I removed the rear crossbar so that the rack could be mounted flush to the roof. The front crossbar I was able to keep on there by pushing it all the way forward https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-Roof-Rack-Cargo-Top-Luggage-Holder-Carrier-Basket-with-Extension-Travel/192058630233?pageci=2f26b205-d21d-4c26-8daa-3e5ac4eb4189&epid=2113517269

Excellent advise above I would also add the front Lokka to your list of mods since you mention you have access to cheap mechanics to do the swap for you. I’ve heard great things from those that have them installed, and I’m looking to add one to mine soon.

Wow! Rig looks incredible. I love the meaty rubber, did you need wheel spacers to keep from rubbing?

Yeah I’d honestly prefer to switch in the opposite direction. Like swapping in a manual transfer case from the AUTO one that my LE came with. It’s an absolute nightmare when it comes to manual hubs and there’s sensors and electronics everywhere that could go wrong and leave you screwed

Ah gotcha. Makes sense. My office got shut down for the virus so I’ve had lots of free time fortunately.

Fantastic work man. I’m glad I’m not the only one pimping the pathfinder during the quarantine. I’ve been surprised by the lack on activity on the forum lately, considering the circumstances. Great work on the tire carrier, love the clean look but I was always too nervous to do any drilling. The wrap job also looks very clean, I’m looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Looks great. I’m upgrading to the 9449s this week as well because the 9447s are sagging a bit too much under the weight I have in the rear. Can’t wait to see how they look

Thanks man. Yes sir that’s red rock. Stopped there while visiting the folks in Vegas

Now for the bad news. So far I’ve still had no luck fixing the vibration issue I’ve narrowed it down to the 4 wheel drive system or front drivetrain because it changes depending on a bunch of things so I know it can’t be bearings or tires. Sometimes it will be completely smooth at all speeds, but I can’t find any particular method of achieving this on purpose, it just seems to happen sometimes when I’ve been on the freeway for a while. With the hubs unlocked, sometimes it becomes smooth after 5 minutes above 80mph, but sometimes it doesn’t. With the hubs LOCKED sometimes it’s smooth in auto, and sometimes it’s smooth in 2wd but never both. There is always vibration in 4wd though, so maybe it’s a U-joint in the front drivetrain? Or something in the transfer case or diff maybe? Another weird thing is that I got incredibly good gas mileage on my way through the mountains with the hubs LOCKED rather than UNLOCKED, which makes no sense. For anyone who knows I-70, I didn’t even use 1/16th of a tank from Georgetown to denver doing 60-70 the whole way, which normally takes closer to 1/4 tank. Left me baffled. So yeah, my best guess is that my trucks 4WD system is flipping out for some reason with the manual hubs. At one point i had been driving on the highway for a few hours with the hubs unlocked and it started snowing so I got out and locked the hubs. Then I tried to flip it into 4H and the “4WD” light was flashing on the dash and I had lots of vibration and it seemed to be down on power, but when I shut the truck off and then turned it back on, I was able to use 4H with no issues at all and the power was back. Almost like it had reset something If anyone knows more about the mechanics and logic of the 4WD system, please let me know what might be happening here because the vibration has me worried that something is being worn down and will eventually fail

Roof basket just went on. I also relocated the LED pods to the back so that they would work better, and I’m debating moving the main light bar so that it’s mounted to the rack itself rather than leaving it in front of the rack on the OEM crossbar. I’ll probably get to it eventually but it’s not a priority. First I need to finish hiding the LED pod wires properly and find a cleaner solution for mounting the tools. I also ordered some generic eBay traction boards and a set of the 9449 springs because the extra weight in the back has basically negated my lift at this point. Hopefully the extra stiffness will help. Once I have the cash, I’ll spring for some bilsteins to compete the rear

You have to do it through a photo hosting site. I use Imgur Once it’s uploaded to imgur, you find the option for “copy link”, then on the forum there’s an option at the bottom of your post to insert other media from URL, post the link there and it should work

Cool, hopefully they work out well for you

You could get new MOOG stock replacement springs which will be less saggy than the worn out factory springs. But for serious towing you’ll have to go with heavier springs or airbags. I’m wondering if you could maybe use Land Rover 9449 springs with one or two coils cut. They are heavy duty springs so they would be perfect for the weight, and once they are cut they theoretically wouldn’t make the rear ride too high. Maybe something to look into. The website to get them would be LRdirect, last time I checked a set of 9449s were about 90 bucks shipped to your door, which is pretty solid when you have international shipping involved

The rake you get all depends on weight. I have no rake with that exact set up since I keep a bunch of stuff in the back plus a tire carrier. But completely empty I think I had an inch or so of rake, maybe a bit more. It looked very natural though