PathyGig12

Well the only thing is that the auto mode isn’t engaged when the hubs are unlocked. I have it 2WD mode because that’s the only accessible one. I can’t see how the system could send any power to the front if I’m not in Auto mode? The auto mode is the one where it is capable of detecting slippage, but in 2WD it doesn’t

Just did the bearings last night, and so far the issues has changed slightly but not gone away. Now it’s not quite the same sound as before, it’s shorter and faster repetitions of the vibration rather than longer buzzing pulses. I ended up not needing to do the races because they weren’t scored or damaged at all, but the old bearings did seem a bit loose so I’m glad I swapped them out. I’m thinking maybe I didn’t tighten things down enough? I followed the recommendations online to preload them with 60 ft lbs, and then loosen and hand tighten as far as possible, with a little bit more after that (1/4 turn). Any more than that and they seemed to be slowing the rotation too much, and the holes also wouldn’t line up with the screw holes in the outer plate. So I don’t know at this point. I also swapped out the rotors and that didn’t fix it either Im not 100% sure, but I think when I had the hubs locked and the truck in AUTO mode the vibration didn’t happen, or at least wasn’t as noticeable. I’ll check again today, could have just gotten drowned out by the sound of the water and slush on the road

Last night I finished swapping out the hinge pin on the tire carrier with the new one, and it worked out great. Much stronger, no wobble, and very smooth. Had to fabricate quite a few pieces to get it where I need it, but it clears the hatch and sits level and also corrected the backward lean of the tire that was present before. Very happy with it, just needs to be painted now. And I won’t post pics until it’s painted lol Ive also got the coastal off-road kit sitting in the garage, the old brush guard is off the truck now, just waiting to dig into the front end this week. I’m not sure how long it’ll take me, but I’m figuring at least a few days Then I’ll do the bearings on Saturday I think

Awesome video man. Im pretty jealous that you have access to trails that aren’t buried under snow. Hurry up summer!

I think it was about a week or a week and a half, not too long. Thats awesome you got the struts so cheap, rock auto doesn’t ship to Colorado anymore so I had to get mine for about $115 total for the set

Awesome man, glad to hear you pulled the trigger on the ACs I was about to say something about reusing the old struts but I actually think you’re probably right that they have lots of life left in them. My originals lasted over 200K before crapping out, so no reason yours should be needing replacement yet unless you’ve been jumping the damn thing lmao

Yup, warn manual hubs in the front. Any way they could be involved?

I just can’t shake the feeling that it’s something else. It’s weird that the vibration is only at higher speeds. Seems like a bearings issue would be noticeable at all speeds.

Oh man, the rears are going now too? I was considering doing my rears at the same time, but I can’t figure out what to buy? Are there two bearings per wheel like the front? Also a little bit scared of the drum brakes because I have no experience there. speaking of drums, I’ve been trying to figure out why my brakes seem to be less effective than they used to be. It’s either a problem with the brake booster or the drums I think. I just chalked it up to the larger tires and all the weight, but there is a distinct hissing when you press the pedal hard and quite a bit of travel before they really start biting

Just ordered the bearings, races and wheel seals. Hopefully I’ll get everything done along with the new rotors by the end of next week

Yeah man I’m definitely hoping it’s not something worse. This should be a fairly easy fix at least. So are we gonna race to see who’s done first? I’ve still gotta get the bearings but I’ve got some brand new bosch rotors sitting in the garage waiting to go lmao

Oh jeez, you’re right a warped rotor might be a possibility as well. We only replaced the pads when we did the last brake job a few weeks ago because the rotors were barely worn at all, so there’s definitely a chance that one of them is warped. But I don’t really notice any pulsating in the pedal while braking, which is usually the main symptom. I’ve also heard that a bad bearing could be connected to rotor warping, so maybe I should do both.

Well damn, now you’ve got me pretty much convinced. I’ll get the truck up on a jack and check for play tomorrow, and maybe open up the hub. I hope I don’t have to do all 4 in the front, but maybe its not such a bad idea to get them all replaced so I’m good for basically the rest of the trucks life its not too expensive, I’m just not very sure of the process even after reading some threads on the subject. Although I will say that this site tends to make everything sound more complicated than it ends up actually being lol

It’s in the steering wheel for sure, but also vibrates the whole front half of the truck from what I can tell. It’s not a U-joint issue because those have been recently replaced, it’s not anything else in the front end because everything’s been replaced except the wheel bearings. I can’t really imagine it’s a diff issue because the front is disengaged with the manual hubs unlocked, and the vibration is not coming from the rear I don’t think. Anything is possible though

Update time. So far the carrier and bumper have held up well, but I finally received the original hinge pin that I was planning to use. I recommend never buying from Comp 4x4 because they ignored 3 of my emails over the span of a month and only shipped it after I opened a PayPal dispute. Seriously. Even if it’s a good product, I just can’t recommend them to anyone after that kind of service. Anyway, I’m planning to put it on tomorrow if I have the time. This should make the carrier a little stronger and make sure it’s not wobbly anymore. The current pin has JUST enough play to allow a bit of a rocking motion while it’s closed and latched, which isn’t ideal. I also just placed my order for the coastal off-road bumper today, which makes me super happy. I’ve been wanting a proper bumper up front for a while now. Should be a fun project to weld up. I went with the “no tubing option” because I figure I can make my own tubing fairly easily One problem I’m trying to track down now is this weird pulsating vibration at around 50-65 mph. It sounds almost like when you drive over rumble strips, but it’s intermittent anywhere between once a second and 2 times a second depending on whether I’m accelerating or decelerating and what speed I’m going. You hear it clearly and can feel the vibration mostly though the steering wheel but a little in the seat as well. It started just after putting on the new tires so naturally I thought it was a balancing issue and had them rebalanced, but nothing changed. So now I’m thinking it’s probably a wheel bearing issue. Maybe it was there for a while but was covered up by how loud and rough the ride was with the mudders? Or Is it possible that driving on those crappy tires for as long as I did could have caused the bearings to be damage? Either way, I’ll look into it further before buying parts, but it seems like that’s pretty much the only thing that could cause it

Same situation here, I haven’t been going crazy with the lift height (SFD and whatnot) because it’s my daily driver as well. I figure the 10% of time I’ll be off-road will be somewhat mild stuff that a 2 inch lift can easily handle. The AC springs were chosen one because I wanted the beefiest things I could fit up there in order to offset the weight of any bumper I put on in the future, and two because they provide a true 2” of lift whereas the OME HDs and MDs are a mixed bag as far as I can tell. Some guys report close to two inches, some are closer to 1. I don’t like the look of a heavily raked truck , so I made sure to have as much lift as possible in the front without going for spacers (because of the potential for binding CVs) I’m sure you could get away with the HD OME coils and be pretty close to the same height as AC coils, but again who knows? The 9447s offer between 2-2.5 inches in the rear after settling, so I played it safe and went with the ACs to keep things level I also really like the ride quality of the ACs, even though some people warned me that they would be a bit harsh. I find them firm but not jarring at all, and so far they’ve handled every massive pothole around here without bottoming out once lol

Yes sir, I’ve got the AC coils up front. I used the KYB struts as well, I’ve heard mixed reviews on everything else, so that was the safest bet. Definitely go for the OEM nissan strut mounts and bearings, nothing else has been recommended on this forum, and for good reason. It sucks to have to shell out a good amount of money on tiny parts, but you save yourself a mountain of headache and eventual replacement costs later on I only needed one set (two) of camber bolts to align my front end, but some guys end up needing two sets for whatever reason, so it’s worth keeping in mind.

For sure, if the ride is super bad right now then go for it. Mine was awful before the lift as well, and it was a rough wait for all the parts to come in lol

If I were you, I’d probably hold off on putting the rear stuff on until you have the front stuff as well. If you don’t mind driving “downhill” at all times, then go for it, but the 9447s are a pretty big step up over stock height, and will result in a pretty crazy rake if you don’t lift the front along with it In terms of things to be aware of, I would just keep in mind that you might not get enough flex far to pop in the new coils without undoing the end links. I had to unbolt mine in order to get it low enough, but then it was super simple to get the 9447s in. Make sure to get the body of the truck up as high on jack stands as you can (safely) before doing anything because you’ll need the clearance

Hmm, never even thought of that. Very interesting

Cool cool, I guess you just gotta load that sucker down with gear then! honestly that might be the difference right there. I don’t think I’ve ever had mine completely empty since I put the coils on, so maybe they just sag a little and look more level.

Ok, fair enough. But I can’t see how that makes a difference? I was under the impression that the only difference between the HDs and MDs was spring rate.... Obviously the HDs might naturally sit a bit higher without much weight in the front, making the MDs the “shorter” of the two, but it would be pretty minimal difference. Mainly it has me wondering what’s being sold as a 9447 spring..... I know there were tons of options when I ordered mine, Is it possible the different manufacturers are selling slightly different lengths?

“Face down, booty up” In all seriousness though, how the hell did you get so much lift in the back with 9447s? Those are the same springs I’ve got on mine, and it’s pretty level with the front. Maybe the OME HDs dont lift much after all? I’ve got AC coils up front, which offer 2” inches, so the OMEs must be pretty close to stock height to cause that much rake with 9447s in the back

Jerry can mount is almost done, just needs a locking piece over the top

Thanks man. So far the handling hasn’t changed much, if anything it rides less harshly because the springs have more work to do. Cornering is still awesome for a lifted truck, and I don’t notice any significant sagging with the 9447 coils