Alkorahil

You will need both the purge valve and the evap canister for the P1441 code: PART NUMBER: 14935-54U0D DESCRIPTION: VALVE ASSY, PURGE $111.88 (NISSAN LIST: $151.60) PART NUMBER: 14950-1W72B DESCRIPTION: CANISTER ASSY, EVAP $198.53 (NISSAN LIST: $269.02) The charcoal in the canisters breaks down and destroys the purge valve. Unfortuatnely a semi-common problem for the 10+ year old R50's. These are the common parts, there may be variants based on vehicle VIN. IF you PM it to me I can check it for you.

Here is the info for the leather one: PART NUMBER: 96935-75P00 DESCRIPTION: BOOT, CONSOLE TRANS $66.08 (NISSAN LIST: $ 110.13) part is for 1994-95 model

Very sad news!!!!

VERY GOOD POINT!

Heheheh...... Mine were done hard core though.... sandblasted and dipped... and before the EPA/state laws on chroming came along too.... Totaly stinks those wheels got messed up....they did look nie with the black center caps.......<sigh>

Back in the day there was available a precut hood from Nissan Motorsports for the D21 Hardbody....

Gates is usually good stuff, but like anything it is made by man.

Alternator is going out....as stated above....

Isnt there a very small adjustment screw?

Glad it got there, you jumped right in on that fast. I have always thought it amazing how much heat comes up through there when the rubber boot is torn, great in winter, not so good in the summer! When I did mine about 2 years ago, IIRC correctly I had the part that goes around the shifter level with the rest of the boot, before the lever notches down. From the picture above I think you need it to come up about 1 inch. PART NUMBER: 74965-80G00 INSULATOR, TRANS HOLE $26.21

Yeah I straight up told him it would cost more to ship them then he would save on the parts getting them from me and I totally understand. I always try to point something like that out. Unless you are getting a lot of small stuff at once or a big ticket item you wont save $ when shipping is always a consideration. I am here to help first and foremost.

$320.00 was MSRP..........

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33375-genuine-nissan-accessories-warehouse-clearance/

Yes that is correct, Nissan offered them as seperate parts back in the day. The Grill Guard is the center piece that mounts to the vehicle frame and has two tabs for mounting fog/driving lights. Last time I checked there were a few left at the main warehouse but they are discontinued by Nissan and when they are gone they are gone. The Brush Guard is the set of two 'hoops' on each end that mount to the Grille Guard. They are also discontinued and no longer available.

Your vehicle isnt OBD-II.......... But if it was, it would take about 15 minutes of continuous driving.....

Absolutely! Especially running large tires!

have you checked the position/adjustment of the switch for the shift lock and the bumper for the switch is intact?

I belive they are thinking of OBD-II or III that will do some 'relearning' by starting to log a new set of data history after being cleared............

Yes, a common part that the R50 needs replacing.

The front and rear washer pumps are the same on the R50 Pathfinder and the JR50 QX4 from production dates 10/95-07/02 The window motors are the same in each location on the R50 Pathfinder and the JR50 QX4 from production dates 10/95 - 01/00

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/

Inside there is a point where the harness is tied down with one of those black loops to the body. I think it just matters how much slack they gave the harness before they punched it close. Some I have pulled out 8 inches, some 1 inch!

you get a KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)

EXCELLENT IDEA.

1 Sit in the driver seat of the truck with the doors closed. Lock the doors using the "Lock" button on the driver's door. 2 Insert the ignition key into the ignition and immediately remove it. Repeat this process a total of six times. Insert the key one final time and turn it to the "ACC" position. 3 Push a button on the keyless entry remote. Watch for the emergency lights on your truck to flash, showing that the remote is programmed. 4 Unlock and lock the doors, then push a button on the next remote to add an additional remote. Repeat this for every remote you need to program. Turn the ignition key to "OFF" and remove it from the steering column to exit programming.