Charlie_Brown

Check all your grounds. I forgot to put my main ground back on and had the same issue. Painted the Nissan emblem on the grill, blue circle chromed out to red Nissan. Flashy but looks pretty goid. Bent and cut a bracket for the snorkel to be mounted to the A pillar. Need to drill holes, grind smooth and paint it tomorrow. Mounted new rims with the 33 super swampers just to make sure they would fit on the truck. They "fit" but now I'm looking at minimum 4inch lift. Considering caliminis suspension lift kit with the new torsion bars (mine are sagged pretty hard) with a 2 inch BL. Anyone have experience with this lift? Opinions? Y'all think it would be comparable in price to SAS? I don't know how to weld so I'd have to take it to a shop unfortunately. Leaning on the lifts for cost factor but open to all opinions and experiences.

When cutting a radiator hose that is not a steel braided one you can get an easy clean cut with a razor blade with two easy steps First put your hose clamp and tighten it where you want to cut so you have a straight line to follow, next apply any type of lube you wish to around the area you want to cut and to your blade, the lube strips the friction so razor blades cut through like butter and you don't have a rough cut anymore.

Bolted everything back on the engine and got it running again. Reworked where I had my wiring so my shroud could fit in and put new radiator in. After 3 trips into town I finally got a hose that will work for the lower radiator hose, just took a little trimming to the hose but came out perfect and smooth. Mocked the fender back into place and bolted it all back down, cut and bent a new bracket for the snorkel support. It's not pretty right now bit I might end up straightening It a little more before painting Painted windshield wipers, drilled and rethreaded two bolts that snapped off for the radiator support bracket. Spent more time running into town than actually working bit it all got done somehow.

Installed new timing belt and tensioner, got timing on CORRECTLY this time. Main difference between having someone help you that knows what they are doing verses having people help you that doesn't know what they are doing. So much easier. Plumbed the snorkel and painted the fender. Got impatient with the paint since it was stopping me from mounting and working on the bracket for the top so I applied my second coat too soon and now I have dry lake bed. Going to sand it back down tomorrow and start fresh, though the paint is only temporary it bothers me to see it like that. Then again I don't know, maybe I'll jut wait on it till I paint the whole truck. It will make that project come sooner rather than later that way since it will annoy me looking at it. Oh yeah, fixed a ground I forgot to put back on.

Beat fender more so snorkel is pretty straight, been thinking of how I'm going to paint the truck and looking at ideas. I'll tear the engine back apart next weekend when I get the new belt. Considering running into town and picking up a rattle can of red paint for the fender and just spraying over the cuts and paint that chipped off. I don't care if it stays or not since I'm not going to keep it that color but I feel like I should just wait for when I actually paint it. Not sire, will probably just get a rattle can so I can finish the install since all that's left is easy.

Cut into my fender for the snorkel, beat the crap out if it to try to get it straight with some success. Still not happy entirely with how it sits but it's too late to work on it, took out the air filter box so I can begin the plumbing tomorrow if I feel like it. That or tear the engine back down, one of the two.

fskced up the timing. Now I have to tear the engine apart again. These water pumps are absolutely retarded, who makes something so ass backwards where you have to take timing belt off when changing the damn pump. I'm frustrated and done working on this truck for awhile

Put the grille back on, cleaned threads of paint and found the stud I need so I can complete the engine next weekend

I had just started to tighten it when It snaooed. Loosening it is what weakened it, it was stuck in place and would barely even move. It was just old and was over tightened before I guess. Not much I could have done about it but spend more time with liquid wrench before moving it. Oh well, I needed a break from the vulture wagon anyways hahaha. I'll have to double check that torque spec

I have no idea, I looked on rock auto but none of them mentioned coming with or without a replacement bolt, just the pulley and spring. Wasn't planning on swapping either the belt or the tensioner since they are in good shape and I'm burning money on this truck faster than I can handle so I didn't want to order it and still be stuck in the same spot.

Finished sanding the tire carrier, removed and sanded the side steps to bare metal, painted Bedliner on all of it 2 coats. Tried to find that &^%*ing stud again for the third day, no luck. Called dealership (it's an hour and a half drive one way so not my first pick) got the part number and ordered it for 3 dollars. Won't be able to drive my truck on the fourth but what can you do I guess. Next year. fskc this truck hahaha Anyways, timing belt tensioner stud part number for Nissan dealership; 13073V5001

To help anyone in the future, the part number for this stud is 13073V5001 at Nissan dealership and costs 3 dollars. Way better than pick and pull. I tried auto pars stores, hardware stores, nobody seemed to have it. Just go to the dealership.

I can get it at wreckers for sure I'm just trying to stay away from a used bolt. I just started to tighten mine when it snapped and I wasn't even trying it. My bolt off the old engine has 300k on her so I'm not trying to use that one. I'm gonna try fastenal tomorrow if they are open but it might come down to dealer

Timing tensioner Bolt (rod) broke when I was tightening it back up and now I'm stuck, my napa didn't have anything but header bolts, no lick with AutoZone, Lowe's or orchard. Can any of you please point me in the right direction on getting a replacement either online of a brick and mortar store. I refuse to use an old bolt and test the same thing happening again. Thank you

Sanded the entire spare tire swing to bare metal, replaced waterpump for so when I got the damn timing belt back on for the tensioner bolt to snap. &^%*ing figures. Painted pulleys and random engine parts something are shiney when they go back on, painted grille

Mounted the alternator and tensioner. Replaced AC intercooler and straightened out the bracket to the frame that the p.o bent in a small wreck. Ordered new radiator and belt since I didn't do anything else on Sunday but hang out with friends.

Replaced all six fuel injectors along with the fuel filter. Blew out the real tube and after testing her out found out my water pump is indeed bad. Can still hear a slight misfire so I'm gonna try cleaning the MAF however I know for a fact I have one or two exhaust leaks so I could easily just be hearing thst. I'll probably just wait till I get a new exhaust.

Pulled brand new alternator, brackets and used ac pump from pick and pull along with a new dipstick. Looked around to see if any of the wd21s had Manual locking hubs, unfortunately they did not. Shame the xterra engine was pulled completely. Could have used the brackets from that instead of the r50. Remainder of the weekend was spent pulling the engine out of my dad b4000 mazda. Not leaving a lot of time for my truck especially when it snows the next day lol.

I really love that interrupt on the doors. Not sure what package I God but it looks nowhere as good

Tightened the torsion bars, just guessed on where they should be at. I can't seem to figure out where the swivel bolt is on the 92. Anyone want to give me a hint? Lubed the locks and gave it a bath. Ordered new fuel injectors along with a new fuel filter. Come to think of it i should habe put the new oil filter in while I was down there. Hopefully next week I can make it to pick and pull

Put front diff in along with the front driveline. Diff was a bitch, seriously fskc that thing. Why is it so hard to line back up and get in when sliding the neck through it. After that found out my slave was bad and had to get a new one, still leaked air because the damn copper washers wouldn't compress enpugh. My dad finally got it tight after swapping them around and was able to finally drive the truck for a short bit. I'm tired of everything on this truck fighting me, everything has taken almost a full day and I've replaced or cleaned up everything on the truck at this point besides the rear axle.

Haha sounds like my exhaust only I don't have the holes. It us solid but rusted shut through and through so even thinking about working on it is pointless. I want a new exhaust anyways though so it's a good excuse to spend the $$$

You doing the 2.5 pipe out to glasspack, high flow cat, magna or something else? Put the rear driveshaft on, should have done the front while inward at it but I didn't think about it, rigged up a way to keep a vg30 belt from slipping so I could run the truck and let idle, burnt a lot of oil but after a half hour or so it ceased thankfully. Found out an injector us bad causing misfire, waterpump is bad causing MAJOR leak. Truck was put in time by my dad and mounted the headers to the old exhaust.

Installed thorley headers, "fixed" dipstick issue and was finally able to start the truck up. Damn she sounds mean! Began trying to figure out what to do with the alternator and p/s pump and future belts. Has anyone else swapped a vg33 in wd21, keeping oil filter in the same spot while also keeping alternator and p/s in vg30 positions? I've not been able to find much on it since everyone tends to keep all accessories from vg30 which I am not doing.