colbywan

Everything in this thread describes my car to a T and I can't for the life of me figure it out either. I've replaced the plugs with OEM plugs from the dealer and checked over vacuum lines. I've adjusted my timing with a light from 10 to 15 and everything in between. It seems to ping much worse when it's hotter outside. If I run the premium fuel it doesn't seem to ping hardly at all?? I've run injector cleaner as well and put a new air filter in and did and oil change and put the engine restorer stuff in as per another members advice which by the way did help with the noisy lifter. Any ideas?? -Colby edit - I've also replaced my O2 sensor recently and put a new high flow cat in as well.

My shifters never hit my drinks, even if they're big drinks. The only time it's close is putting it into reverse. But I don't have a body lift either. -Colby

Aww true, forgot about that... Well if any manual peeps want one I can prolly make one for em. -Colby

Just get some gray foam and cut it like this then use a hole saw to cut out the cup holes... I made this in about 20 mins and it ROCKS!! Never tips, fits ALL size drinks cause it stretches, and seems to match pretty good too! I've had it for over a year and if it ever wears out I'll just take another 20 mins and make a new one. I even thought about mass producing them for members if enough people were interested. -Colby

Not yet, I just filled up my tank today the mileage I calculated was wrong because I've been working on my truck and was driving without having my gps off (speedo way off) I'll know in a couple days when this tank runs out prolly round the weekend. -Colby

I just swapped to a used set of warn hubs that I got from a member here yesterday. I'll let you guys know if there's any change in mileage... -Colby

I would recommend NOT doing that. The offroad lights will draw a significant amount more power. I think the best way would be to wire a relay directly to you battery then to the light. If you hook to the dome you could start blowing fuses for sure. That's a good idea for a master switch I haven't had any issues with accidental lighting but I guess there's always that possibility that it could ya know Thanks dude! -Colby

I got mine off ebay it's a magna flow and I got it for like 90 bucks with shipping. -Colby

Sounds effin good! I've got that same cat now I just need to do the rest, this is def what I want too. Thanks for effort in making the video and giving part numbers. Very cool. -Colby

You were totally right there is tons of info regarding this KMA company. Seems like the main complaint is that they take longer than they say they will and a few have had complaints on quality while many say they are descent bumpers... I dunno, maybe I'll get a welder and atempt to make my own. -Colby

Damn why have I never seen this site before? I would totally own the one for my pathy and at $460 maybe I'll just do that! Do you or anyone know anything about this company selling the bumpers?? -Colby

Here's where I've got mine mounted. It wasn't exactly easy to fit it in there but with a little trimming and patience you'll have no problem. I mounted my scanner below the CB so I've got all radios in the same area. -Colby

Did you check exhaust hanger brackets? I changed out my cat and noticed the hanger before and after the cat are sheared off and the cat was rubbing on the crossmember making a horrible clunk / squeak / rattle noise that I had been searching for MONTHS!! -Colby

Here's a few from this weekend in Lava Hot Springs, ID Thanks man!

I've got one of those too! Although it's not in my ashtray. I've got it mounted below my cb-radio. Coin / small bills for emergency days where I forget my wallet (has kept me from starving at lunch a few times). -Colby

When you hold this switch down you can start the truck without depressing the clutch pedal. I think it's purpose is for when you're not able to take your foot off the brake to push the clutch to restart if you're off road in a sticky spot or something like that. At least that's what I've always assumed. -Colby

It was running crappy, it was hard to drive smoothly unless it was floored. Not very much power at all. CEL was on and flashed 2 codes. 33 heated o2 and 34 knock sensor. It's running good now but one wierd thing is the CEL came on for like 20 seconds then went back off. But the trucks running great so far. -Colby

Yeah, but worth every bit of it now. I'm workin on getting some. I'll post them when I get em for sure. -Colby

Well after a couple days of driving I can tell you aboslutely this was the prob! It runs way better. But one thing weird is that I cleared the codes the CEL was gone but today while driving the light came on for like 20 seconds then went back off never to come back as of yet. The truck is running great so who knows... What does it mean? Hmm.. Now I just need to focus on getting some broken studs handled but that's another issue. -Colby

All done. I used cable ties in a few spots to keep the wires away from the exhaust. I reset the codes so we'll see if any come back or not. Seems to run a bit better but it's really to early to tell. I'll know more after driving it around for a few days. The old one was really white here it is just barely unscrewed so you can see the tip. Thanks again guys! -Colby

I've got my PB and the new sensor (bosch universal type). I just went out and sprayed it down so it'll be ready for tomorrow morn. I don't have a 22 mm but I've got some big cresent wrenches and good size vise grips. I'm thinking I can make it work but we'll see. I didn't see any spot welds although I wasn't looking specifically for them. I'll take pics during install and update here. Thanks again everyone for the quick reponses. I can't tell you how much of an asset this forum and the people on it are to me. -Colby

SWEET! Thanks for the quick responses guys! I'll replace tomorrow and then update. -Colby

Mine does this same thing but it's so intermittent that I haven't bothered to even look into it. Good to know it's most lilkely some dry linkages. -Colby

I'm not a professional by ANY means but from my experience is that it sounds like a lifter problem. My stud is broken on the motor I have now and it's much louder. It also doesn't go away then come back like you describe it's just plain there when you get on the throttle till the thing gets hot then it quiets down some but not all the way. So my guess is lifter or something other than the exhaust stud. But I could be wrong who knows.. Maybe someone else with more experience will chime in and agree with me hopefully -Colby

My CEL is on and sometimes it goes back off by itself. I've checked the codes (using the very detailed how to guide here) and they are a 33 heated oxygen sensor and a 34 knock sensor. I wanted to be sure so I reset the light then continued driving it around for about a week or so til they came back and it's telling me the same codes. The truck definitely isn't running the greatest and is getting anywhere from 14 to 15 1/2 mpg. My question is which o2 sensor it the heated one before the y pipe of after? I've searched but can't seem to get any clarity on this. Do you guys think that the bad o2 could be the cause of the knock sensor code? My plans were to replace the heated o2 then reset and check later. What do you think? Thanks for any help on this guys! -Colby