RIPB.88

I'd probably pull some from a junkyard. Or at least compare the two and look for differences.

You should plumb the system so you have quick disconnect fittings in/near each of the wheel wells so you just hook up 4 ~36" whips. That would eliminate some of the hose you must carry, then you just stuff the short lengths of hose under the sear or some where. That's how I've built mine.

My TBI VG30 gets 17 in town and 19-20 on the highway I'm careful with the gas pedal and not traveling against high winds. I run Ethanol free 89 Octane fuel. I would think yours should do better.

Take it to a reputable stereo shop. Best Buy is a bunch of Idiots that only know how to use their plug-n-play harnesses. Bypass the factory amps. You just replace door speakers and just run new speaker wires to the head unit. At $65/hr, with high quality new door speakers installed i'd charge roughly $275 out the door at my shop.

Check Timing and might as well replace the belt if it hasn't been done in a while. Could also be internally in the distributor. Could also pull spark plug wires off one by one and see if one cylinder is causing your problem.

Check the contact on the rotor. Could be not arcing right.

Looks like a valet switch from an aftermarket remote start/Keyless entry system. Directed Electronics uses that style switch on their systems such as the Python 4103.

Run 35 psi on mine until I need to air down to 15 on the trails.

Correct, all the UCAs do, is allow for proper alignment (Camber/Caster) and correct ball joint angle. The 4x4parts ones just look beefier then stock, but offer no real advantage. Nobody said the UCAs themselves do the lift.

Correct. Some members here are using ford shocks, but I'm not sure what part numbers they are using. Hopefully someone using them here will chime in.

Another option is to brace up the centerlink. But, when you strengthen the weakest point in the suspension, you're just moving the weak spot to another component. You only need to replace the steering box if there is play in the shaft. Same goes for the pitman.

If you don't do UCAs and lift it, you'll be doing ball joints every few months because your maxing out the ball joint all the time. Also watch for CV Bind when you lift or you'll tear those up all the time too. When you do lift it, longer shocks are not needed, because you are not lengthening full droop of the IFS. Also for a 2" lift, a panhard drop isn't needed, but it wouldn't hurt though.

Had a buddy complain of horrible steering for about 2 months in his old pickup, until I noticed one of his hubs was locked in. He was a little pissed.

Installed some Vision X 1156A LEDs in my turn signals. Got tired of a slight rattle from my catalytic converter barely touching a cross member so I welded a new exhaust hanger on. Also had a slight rattle from my Hi-Lift jack handle when hitting bumps, so I took off the Hi-Lift brand handle keeper and put on a Daystar Handle keeper. Much quieter now.

That thing is a beast. Awesome build man. Everything looks great.

You'll want both. When I did mine it only took me about 4 hours to do the whole thing, but that's with air tools and a shop to do it in.

I install BDS lift kits at work all the time and have not had any issues whatsoever. Quality parts every time and customer service has always been great, and you can't beat the warranty.

I use WIX filters for everything I can. Never had problems with them on any vehicle I've owned.

Yakima and Thule have fit guides. The feet for my rails is the Thule system for the 4 door pathfinders, because they don't make one for the 2 doors that use different rails. My factory rack buckled under the weight and slightly bent, so I had to go this route. The feet use the T-Slot in your factory rails to mount. Its the podium foot pack 460 I believe.

Like a TRUE 90 2 Door? MPFI 2 door or TBI?

Got my new Cooper ST MAXX 31x10.5r15 tires mounted and made a 2" spacer for the rear springs using a new Polyurethane jeep leveling kit I had kicking around the shop. Had to do a little bit of trimming because of my offset, but I'm really liking the wide stance. Sitting quite a bit taller than before now. Also mounted some Rigid Dually Spots by my fenders with the security kit. Well worth it. Diagnosed my compressor to be bad, so now I have to send it in and wait for a replacement. Contemplating adding another compressor to the system as well.

Best to pull them and check the rod. Make sure it hasn't warn the the metal sleeve. My bushings didn't look too bad until I pulled it apart to inspect further.

What company is it?

31x10.5r15 Cooper Discovery ST MAXX

If its the front defrost, pull the controls out and make sure the cable moves when you put it to defrost setting. If its your rear defrost, unplug the tabs and take a multimeter to the terminals and check for continuity. If you don't have continuity, then your defrost lines are broken. check the compression/strut rod bushings and make sure they are not worn, and have a tire shop check the alignment on your front end because mine was off barely and did the same thing. For the 4wd light, its possible you just have a burnt out bulb.