PathyAndTheJets

Check the starter cutoff relay. Follow the harness up from the starter, the main bit will go to the positive terminal, but a branch goes up toward the fender behind the battery. A blue relay, with two plugs in it, a larger one and a smaller one. It may be in the under hood fuse box under inhibit relay. Try tapping it lightly with a hammer while someone holds the key in start. Sometimes cycling the key quickly gets it to go. I think the contacts get carboned up from arcing, haven't cut my old one open to confirm that yet.

Grab a bag of managers special bread, pack it in the hole, either use the clutch alignment tool with the handle popped out and a mallet. Or a socket roughly the same diameter as the inner bushing diameter. Same concept as the grease, more viscous though.

You'll want the gasket set for the VG30i, so you get the proper manifold gaskets for the TBI intake. I believe everything else is the same besides that.

The blocks are identical. Any VG30 with the exception of one out of a Z31 can be swapped to TBI, or from TBI with the intake manifold and plenum/throttle body. The later engines might have a knock sensor that you won't have a spot for in your harness. Be sure to check all of your clutch components, and make sure you have the proper bearing/bushing for your transmission. Make sure the keyway for the harmonic balancer isn't damaged, when you get a timing belt you'll have to order one for the vg30e. They have round cogs and a 100k change interval. I'd replace all main seals. Exhaust manifold gasket and plane the manifolds flat, and replace those broken studs.

Yeah, any six lug Chevy rim fits. I want to say the bolt pattern is 6 on 5.5 You'll want a 7 or 8 inch wide rim.

I wish I could remember where I heard it. It is supposed to reduce wear on the bushing, catches less crap with the cups up.

I think that style of washer goes the other way. I could be wrong though. Probably doesn't matter enough to flip them around either.

Got her ready for winter. Washed, undercoated and rocker panels bedlined after 30 years of gravel and dust stripping the paint. Fixed the leaky washer reservoir, replaced the fan clutch and checked the antifreeze protection. Hopefully I can spoil her a bit more before the snow flies and get the ball joints and CV shafts replaced, along with a hub and bearing service.

I think for installation they recommend a chassis grease to prevent rust. I don't want to remove them unless absolutely necessary.

It's not the injectors but the idle air circuit that gets coked. I don't think you can really check it without removing the throttle body.

I've just assumed that all of them do it. Mine makes the same sounds. Make sure everything is greased well and moves without binding. Though I've got a strong suspicion that it's the inner tie rod on mine, there is no longer a boot there. I just keep her greased every couple months until I can get enough money together to redo the front end.

GL4 gear oil. You can get it off of amazon, it's very hard to get from parts stores. I'd go with the Amsoil synchromesh fluid if it gets below -15*F. It gets difficult to shift with standard gear oil around that temp. 5 quarts for the transmission. Add through the shifter. Transfer case is 2 or 3 quarts, add up to the fill plug.

The throttle body on mine was super coked up when I bought it. It wouldn't stay running and you'd have to feather the throttle to keep it running. I put a new one on because it was laying around for a project that rust killed. But the idle air control bits were filled with carbon buildup. The fuel injection on the 2 doors is very basic. It uses the injectors to atomize the fuel, rather than a venturi and a jet, if you are familiar with carburetion. The fuel mixture is measured with one o2 sensor in the exhaust which sends a voltage signal to the ECM. The ECM then cycles the injectors at a different rate, enriching or leaning out the mixture. You may want to check your ECM for codes. I believe there is a pinned post for it in the garage section. The oil pickup is bolted to the crank girdle, so it shouldn't be an issue. Pictures are worth 1000 words.

I see them occasionally on eBay for about 50 bucks. I've always wondered about how to improve the design of the rod to reduce wear. But I think most of the problem stems from neglect. Haven't figured out a better way to do it though.

Found my noise coming out of the engine bay. Fan clutch is shot. No resistance when hot, the heat transfer snot is all over the fan, and I've got 3/8 inch of lateral play on the fan. No bueno. Got a new one coming this afternoon.

It's a white lithium grease for splines and throwout.

55046-41G00 upper link bushing 55045-41G00 lower link bushing Ask them to interchange those part numbers.

Wait about 3 seconds with the clutch pressed before trying reverse. It takes a bit for the input shaft to stop, so it's not letting you into the non syncro gear.

Got Valvoline up there? Look for the one with the little red tag on the label, that's the LSD oil. Or find the additive tube.

I would run the Amsoil synchromesh transmission oil for your trans if you can find it. Ends up being about 13 USD a quart. I hear good things about it from the Datsun guys along with the muscle car crowd. I bought 5 quarts of royal Purple before I found the Amsoil, and I'm kicking my self now. 100 bucks of gear oil when I could have spent half that. I still need to put that in...

Try rear lateral arm bushings.

Dismounted and flipped the tires around, then mounted and balanced them. White letters out of course.

They are also brass, IIRC, so that doesn't help a lot. And I've noticed in the last few years that a surprising amount of people aren't capable of selecting the proper Phillips fit the job... POs tend to be terrible at that and wiring. I like to cut a slot in them and use a flat head. Or drill them out with a left handed drill bit.

Sounds like the countershaft bearing. The case could end up getting chewed up, so fixing it sooner rather than later will be much cheaper. A rebuild would be bearings, syncros, replace any damaged gears, seals,and bushings. Depending if you are paying for removal and installation into the vehicle it will be upwards of 2500 bucks. You could probably get away with just replacing the front case bearings. Then you'd be out about 150 bucks for bearings and seals and a weekend to get the transmission in and out, if you've got the tools.

I tend to stay away from k&n filters too. High flow=reduced filtration efficiency. Purolator has performed well for me as well. I doubt that Mobil is worth the 12 dollar filter price. I've used Bosch and Wix/Napa gold with no problem.