Soccerstudd5

I don't know if I've noticed these before, I'm gonna have to run out to my car later and check it out.

Well I'm going to check it out again this weekend. I'm going to be home this weekend where I have a garage and jack and tools and I'll do some checking.

Does the whole 4wd assembly have to be taken apart?

I got new wheels put on in October and got an alignment and now my front tires cupping. Took it back to check the alignment and they said it was fine but something needed to be repacked with grease. I forgot what he said needed to be greased, but he was quoting me $240 cause the whole 4wd system had to be taken apart, supposedly, and said if it didn't get done soon then it would start wearing on the spindle. I flipped through the Chilton's book a bit, but couldn't quite find what I was searching for. Anyone know what it sounds like needs to be greased and if the whole 4wd system does in fact have to be taken apart? I would love to avoid the $240 if it's something me and my dad can take care of on Saturday. TIA. It's a 94 by the way, sorry.

I thought chevy had a different lug pattern.... not that I researched it, just thought they did. If that's the case, I guess I'm going to have a D44 Waggy axle for sale soon.... or maybe for trade for the one I need. Thanks for the help.

I'm going to be dropping in a 327 SBC over the summer if all goes well and sometime in the future had planned a SAS as well. I have a Waggy D44 axle already, but if I'm switching to a chevy engine and transmission, am I going to have to find a passenger drop differential now instead of the drivers drop I already have? If so, can I just find one off a different year waggy (I think they changed sides around 80-ish?) so that I can keep the same lug pattern as the rear axle? TIA!

I'd say go for it, I think this summer I'm going to be throwing a sbc in mine as my engine seems to need a rebuild but I have a 327 so I thought if I was going to rebuild something, why not rebuild something bigger... looking forward to seeing some pics and a write up! BTW, check cardomain.com for some others that have done it, I've found some pathy's with sbc's, might have some with ford v8's too...

Not 100 percent sure yet, think it's the main seal. I've been having a slow oil leak for a little while. Right now it's about 25 degrees with a couple inches of ice covered with 3-4 inches of snow. Going to replace some seals next time I'm home from school.

Well, crawled under there to take a look, and it looks like I'm going to need to get some new seals. I have oil leaking and it was burning on the crossover pipe. Thanks for the help GG and MY1.

Hadn't even thought about road debris. Don't know what would've gotten up there, but I suppose it's possible. I don't think I have rust under the drivers floor panel, but I'll check that as well, along with the tranny fluid later today and post an update of what I find. Come to think of it, it also seemed a bit hesitant after than while driving, like something was cutting out very briefly....

Driving to school today I started to smell something burning but temp gauge was fine so I assumed it might be another car around me and kept going. A couple miles down the road, some started coming up through the boot around the shifter (5 speed, 94, 3.0). I stopped and checked oil and coolant, both fine, and looked around for something smoking but couldn't find anything. I was running late so I had to get to class, but now I'm wondering if it could be the transmission. I just put a rebuilt one in 1.5 years ago. What else could it be or should I check? I'm going to check the tranny fluid when I get done with classes and go from there. TIA

What kind of tires are on there? And is the noise only heard at 70+?

That's great, I am tired of using the search function and getting 8 million results! Thanks Red!!! Ok, sorry bout the

I think this is my favorite of the options listed so far. Sounds like the most protected and most airflow, only problem would be more fabrication for the cowl hood, but definitely doable.

I took it off and just left the open hole going into the airbox. Haven't had any problems at all, sounds a little deeper when accelerating now too. Here's the link to what I took off, I had a little problem right after, but it was because I had disturbed the MAF sensor, but after adjusting it, everything was fine. My link

x2, best of luck to you.

Got it, looked right over that diagram the first time... my bad

IN the t-case? Ok, thanks...

Did some searching and couldn't find anything, but I know I've seen it in the past. Where is the indicator switch for the 4wd? I remember it's somewhere around the transmission or t-case under the truck, but I can't remember more than that. I am going to be crawling under there and checking some stuff and would like to fix the problem of my 4wd light always being on. As always, TIA!

x2 on the height, cause it's going to be even higher than shown when mounted to line the holes up with the headlights. But other than that, can't complain much when it's $1, or free rather....

Agreed. My pathy has started leaking oil and when I changed my alternator it had grease and oil all over it, so I had thought of a rebuild also. But then I remembered I have a 327 just sitting around so why not, if going to all that trouble, swap in something with a lot more hp and torque. Of coarse, this is one of many great ideas I come up with that take a while to do since I'm in school and lack time and money. But that's an eventual (this summer hopefully) plan for me. Good luck on the decision, and let me know how it goes.

I've used an ice scraper before, it works well, but that was on my camaro, the hatch on my pathy seems to hold up just fine, never replaced em. But that's not a bad idea if I ever start getting hit on the head.

31's is probably the best bet, but I remember someone recently posting pics of a their ride with 33's and no lift IIRC, just a lot of cutting. Anyone else remember that? (starts searching for page...) Found it... it was 32x12.50's on Aerosync's page in the Member's Rides section. Did some cutting, but says it's stock. Just scanned it really, may have done the PML. Hope this helps.

That's what I thought, but I got my battery tested and it was fine so I just ignored it. Turned out to be a bad idea. Also, my alternator was covered in grease and oil... any ideas? I plan on taking a closer look at the engine in about a week when I can put it in the garage and I'm not in my apartment parking lot when it's below freezing, and possibly taking it into the shop.