TowndawgR50

I think @hawairish probably already brought this up with you but I'd reccomend keeping your rear sway bar intact. There is no noticeable gain in flex with it removed and the truck will flex tons with your setup.

You're in great hands. @hawairish is the man. I love the 5160's paired up with the LR springs. I run the wider, open forest routes up here (Scenic Mtn Loop Hwy) at a pretty good clip( 30-50mph) and the type of grading they do creates 2 1/2ft wide wash boarding thats about 4-6" deep from peak to shallow. With my old OME MD springs and 5100's I'd get rear end "float" and the truck never felt stable in those conditions, especially in cornering. Now the truck is tight, easy to control at speed and corners with no rear end "float". I think you're going to love them. Make sure to check for clearance at full droop and compression. Depending on your wheel/tire offet you may need yo make some adjustments to avoid contact with the shocks and reservoir. What reservoir clamp hardware are you going with?

Ah, i misread your post. This pertains to the 3.5 engine only, as far as I know.

Yes, i have done it.

Thanks again for the care package @hawairish!!! Definitely looking forward to this. I plan on using new OEM discs with HD pads then running the climb and, more importantly, the decent from Crystal Mountain lookout in Liberty to serve as my benchmark. The drums last about halfway through that decent as the 4.3 differentials in 4L dont have enough gearing to keep speeds down.

Garage day w @RainGoat &@ferrariowner123

Nissan Geniune MAF sensors for a Maxima are a direct replacement and costs less than the rock auto daily driver category parts. This topic is covered in detail in the pinned topics thread "Cheap 01+ MAF sensor problem fix!" Make sure to to get the correct unit for your year as they change https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-volume-air-flow~22680-2y001.html

Check for a code with a scanner or do the manual check with a CEL flash count before spending any money.

These are very light duty. The name says it all. "BRUSH guard". Thats just about all they're good for- slow speed pushing of grass and small bushes on a tight trail. Any impact of significance and they will fold up. @RainGoat is a good source of info on this topic. He has one and has front end damage.

OEM for R50's w HID's. @onespiritbrain @ferrariowner123 has a few sets for both his 96 and 03 and I think @XPLORx4 also has a set on his rig as well.

Excellent work. Love the aesthetic. Almost aircraft/cockpit like. And the vinyl wrap on the windows for stealth is genius. Love this.

Looks the same. I think mine is made by Curt. Same folks who make receivers and towing equipment. Downside with this rack is that its slightly narrower than the rola and has a taller profile but the conduit clamps work. They will give and conform. Just try to center it before tightening the clamps One thing i feel like may have been overlooked is the fasteners that come with conduit clamps. Theyre usually garbage and not designed for these kinds of applications. I replaced all of the fasteners with stainless hardware- hex head bolts with flat&lock washers, including the bolts that hold the conuits to the rails.

The logs up top here are from a fresh fell tree, each about 2ft long and about 15-20lbs a piece. This was the only image i could find but i added more to my rack that day before we were done. @AlabamaDan

yes @AlabamaDan

Wow, great looking rig! Id love to see more of the rear area. Looks very well done! @Woots

I tend carry 100-200lbs of fire wood while wheeling. Usually just cut and gather it as we go along the trails and get enough for 1-2 lengthy nights by the fire with no problem.

Love that XROX bumper. @KiwiTerrano

Ouch! Thats rough. Any photos of the damage? @KiwiTerrano

Yup. Conduit clamps have worked great. Enough give to handle the flex and stress of wheeling and strong enough to hold tons of weight at highway speeds. I left mine galvanized but the cerakoting would be nice. Great work! @02_Pathy

So this had me thinking about what was there as well. Couldn't remember for the life of me and it wasn't that long ago so I dug through some old photos and found these pics of my rear hooks before I got my tow bar. Now I just need to remember where I put them

Can you recover from those points? Yes, but gently and only in mild recovery situations due to loss of traction. Stuck in mud, snow, sand or anything like that while using an OEM tow point can cause failure of the flimsy layered sheet metal that the nuts are welded to. In my opinion, I wouldn't use ANYTHING OEM for recovery except a rear mounted hitch with a recovery ring. I was recovered via those points and the driver side mounts torqued forward. It was a snatch style grab by a Suzuki Samurai with about 8ft of lead on a bubba rope and soft shackels when I was buried up to my bumper in snow.

Hey...I know that guy. Truck looks great! Welcome to the forum!

Raingoat is correct . That is the swing gate not latched warning light. All R50's are equipped with swingate provisions but should require the rear mounted switch to illuminate that spot on the dash. Not sure why yours is on without that sensor but it could be a cross compatibility issue.

Very nice! Looks really clean. Big fan of that color.

You need camber bolts to correct the suspension. They replace 1 or both of bolts that connect the knuckle to the struts. 2" or more of lift from spacers can potentially cause over extension of CV axles in off road situations so be careful.