TowndawgR50

I'm sure you have the correct bushing but the sleeve ID should be 14.3mm (clearance hole for the OEM 14mm bolt) with an overall length of 60mm.

Should be around 48mm, but curious. You have a set of calipers? Mine measured under just under 48mm but they probably distorted during removal so its hard to say.

Give the tool a shot. Might be better.

It would be much easier to burn out the rubber with a torch and then sawzall the sleeve. I spent more time setting up the mount to use the shop press than it would have been to torch it and cut the sleeve.

Such a pain in the ass. I had a shop press too. Its the shape of the mount that makes it hard. The outer edges have almost nothing to support the load of a press.

Pull back on the throttle. Steel requires slower rpms. Blades will last longer. Toss a little oil on there too. Or get a metal chop saw with a carbide tipped blade and never buy a blade again

I got the Nolathane bushings in. They wont work. The OD is too big and the casting quality is poor. One unit had a center bore that was considerably off center and would make install difficult. I was going to machine them down but after a lot of research inspired by some resources shared with me by Hawairish I decided to CNC machine a mold for bushings that I can use to cast custom units with zinc plated steel sleeves. Automotive specific formulas are readily available as well as general industrial grade polyurethane. The softest compounds come in around 60D on the hardness scale, which is still stiffer than OEM rubber but wont transfer vibrations like some of the stiffer performance oriented units in the 80D+ range. Should have a set cast within the week.

oh, nice. Forget drilling. Drop the diff with the brackets attached. then remove the brackets and grab the remaining threads and remove the broken stud.

Damm, enough left to extract the rest or will you have to.drill it out? I make it a point to put antiseize on every bolt I pull from under the truck. Dunno how many times ive had the front end apart but time spent has paid for itself many times over

Diff wasnt that bad. Floor jack was all I used. Pull the cvs, driveshaft and breather on top. plavce the the diff on the jack at the pumpkin, support passenger side long axle tube, drop it straight down.

I used a hydraulic press but it was still pretty difficult, like the rest of the OEM bushings. The geometry of the parts wont allow for an easy setup using a press. Had to make a small shim stack and base plate to bolt the diff mounts to.

So a slight development- Hawairish and I have been digging into alternative options and after pressing out my diff bushings today the true size is around 48mm ish. Thats off my used bushing (not concentric) while the housing comes in around 47.2mm, allowing for preload. We think that the spec is for 50mm, which is used on the rear trailing arms ( upper and lower) and is relatively close using the true size I measured today( about 0.080-0.090" ) but cant confirm that as all bushing info references back to compatibility with Nissan part# 54730-0W002 without specifying a size. The listing for the correct rubber bushing specs 1.9" (48.26mm). So, Hawairish found some 50mm Nolathane units that seem to be close enough. The overall length should be a little bigger but can easily be trimmed with a hack saw. It just needs the shoulder of the bushing to sit against the housing. If the true OD is too big, I can turn them down to size with a lathe but that makes this kit unusable for most people and we would be back at square one. The sleeve is spot on, 14.3 ID @ 60mm long. Exactly what the diff bushings run. We'll see how it all goes when the Nolathane units I ordered arrive.

So mine were shot. Drivers side was qprse off and almost seperated from the mount. Bushing size is odd ball. I plan on getting a set of the same poly universal units i used on my rear control arms and welding them in https://imgur.com/4mIYFRR

no, im around 6" so they extended length is longer. i dont remember the part number but its sold for the ford f150

I agree with you. Was just sharing the nissan OEM for reference. Im in the middle of replacing a just about all my suspension bushings with poly and would love to tackle this as well since I got everything apart. Should have it out tonight and be able to come back with nubers for a possible poly replacement.

Nissan sells them as a unit, with bushings installed for 75 a pop, and there is a driver/passenger side. I bet there is a poly alternative. I'll yank mine and pop the bushings out. If We can get the measurements im sure Energy Suspension or another vendor has something that will work.

Damn. Mine felt soft a while ago when I did my Lokka but didnt have a frame of reference for how they should feel. I have my front end apart now so Im going to hit these. Are you replacing with OEM spec or is there a polyurethane option for the diff mounts?

Thanks. Bilstein 5160

Got mine in. They fit great. Not sure how much lift I got over what I had before.

Finally getting around to a bunch of changes. Trying out 6" of lift before I look into alternatives. Front cross member has been a snag for lots of the trails this past year. Installed LR rears and spacers aiming for 6" of lift. Forgot to record my height prior to installing and dont have a reference number. Can anyone running 33's and 6" lift give me a fender height measurement?

I keep my compressor in the rear cubby. Too much salt on the winter roads for me to feel ok about an external mount. Already have to combat rust elsewhere on the truck regularly so I put it inside and havent had any issues. Also is in a great position for inflating camp gear like our air mattress and river rafts. I run a 5 way manifold with gauge that can simultaneously inflates all 4 tires. Its a bit of hose but all fits well in my recovery gear tote. Tire specific lengths with quick disconnects allows me to sit in the warm, dry truck and monitor PSI when its cold and wet out which is most of the time here.

Damn, that sucks. Sorry to hear that. No leaks on my 01 but the first thought that comes to mind, although the truck is relatively new, is that on older vehicles or those that sat under trees and collected organic material on top, they tend to get corrosion around the windshield. Happened to my 280Z. You cant see it but its easy to determine if thats the case. Do you have a pressure washer? Try sitting inside while someone sprays around the front of the truck and check for leaks. Might even work with a garden hose spray nozzle.

Looking good! (Raises virtual hand)

You dont owe me anything. Im glad I could help. The support and information that Ive received from this forum has helped me tremendously. Amazing community of people. Looking forward to some adventures w you and the rest of the local members!!

Never too many. I still have my 280 back in CA. Wish I still had my B210 and 720