TowndawgR50

Ive looked into this as well. @hawairish and I had discussed options a while back but since Im converting my rear brakes to discs its getting deleted anyways. I cant say for sure but I feel like my lift has negatively effected my rear braking performance due to the LSV not being in the correct position. I mostly notice it durring long downhill descents off road, with the front brakes taking the brunt of the work and the rear not even locking up under moments heavy braking where the front does.

Glad I could help!

Just a bit

The turn only condition seems like the wheel bearings. The pulsing is a pretty standard symptom of warped rotors. To check the wheel bearings jack up the front to get the tires off the ground, place it on stands and alternate pulling/pushing on the 12 and 6 o'clock positions of the tires. If you feel any play or clunking its likely a wheel bearing If the rotors still have enough material to be turned that can be the cheapest option to cure pulses but I believe (not entirely sure) the pads need to be replaced at the same time becuase they will have worn to fit the irregular rotors

Nice work guys!

Thanks! @Cuong Nguyen

Finished up another set of lowers

I should clarify that the problem, in my particular case, did not start with any bulbs in the rear but after i installed LED switchback bulbs in the front corner/turn signal assemblies

I also have cruise control related issues that are connected to switching my entire rig over to LED bulbs. My cruise control works fine but cancels when I use my turn signals.

Glad you like the arms! @Jax99 Looking forward to hearing more about the weekend. And congrats on the college moves!

I wonder if the salesperson meant to say they dont offer the 90° fitting by itself or if they dont manufacture 5160's with a 90°. I hope he doesnt mean the latter becuase they definitely manufacture 5160's with a 90° fitting, just like my current set

Check and make sure the nut on the strut piston is torqued under the full weight of the truck on a level surface. If this step is missed and the strut piston nut is only tightened while there is no weight on the suspension it can cause clunking when the strut cycles to full extension. The nut and washer on the piston hit the strut tower after a brief moment of being lifted above the strut mount from the compression of the suspension. Open your hood, push down on the vehicle watch for movement on the nut and strut piston. There should be none.

I have the Powerstop HD towing kit. Its worth every penny for towing but has proven not so great for off road conditions here in WA becuase the slotted and drilled rotors allow grit and silt into the mix and wear the rotors and pads quickly. During my multiple trips back and forth betweeen WA and CA when we were moving I had a bunch of emergency stops with my fully loaded 18ft trailer (usually in Portland becuase they're terrible drivers) and the brakes paid for themselves. On long downhill off road descents they perform great and bite hard. As soon as I started crossing rivers and going through lots of mud they degraded quickly. If getting any performance oriented brakes for these trucks keep that in mind. My current set of rotors will be the last slotted/drilled type.

I dont have that issue but Id guess its similar to the digital clock on the dashboard going out due to soldering on the circuit board failing.

Thank you for the company and top notch beer! @RainGoat

Inspired by @onespiritbrain I looked into a straight forward solution to cold weather starts while using an external cooler and adding a temp gauge. Nothing fancy but I feel like I may end up using something like this. The valve would be manually actuated from inside the cab and the gauge could be mounted in a variety of places. Would require: -Temp gauge kit -simple 3 port manifold -3 way diversion valve -brass T fitting -hose and clamps

My 01 has it on both passenger and driver windows

I run my cooler independent of the radiator. I tow an 18ft toy hauler and when its loaded the weight hovers around the R50 max recommend capacity of 5k lbs so I wanted dedicated HD cooling. I don't currently have a temp gauge but I definitely want one. I monitor everything through my OBD2 real-time when towing but it doesn't have any trans readouts. The only downside of bypassing the radiator for me has been that when temps are low, less than 32°F, for first few miles of driving after a cold start the transmission wont shift into OD while it gets up to operating temps. This has barely been noticeable since I cant reach any significant speed (legally) on the country roads around my house before getting on a highway. Other than the cold start scenario there have been no adverse effects of this setup. As for the temperature controlled valve system- I personally would not ever trust a system like that because if it fails and I'm towing or miles away from any civilization and services on a 4X4 trail the transmission failing could potentially put my family and I in serious trouble. Now, on the other hand, a manually actuated valve @onespiritbrain mentioned is appealing and pretty easy to do. Same design and functionality of older vehicles with a manual choke.

Yup. Love my carrier. Given that it wasn't reinforced like the earlier R50's I'd say it held up extremely well. I came off a ledge and the entire weight of the truck, rear axle at full droop and tires off the ground, landed on the hitch and tire carrier which shock loaded it. Almost the whole rig was supported by the rear carrier. It damaged 1 rivnut and bent the surrounding sheet metal.

No worries. Its a common problem and with a solid ground on the head unit as well as the antenna you shouldn't have any issues. Another mistake is having too much cable. It should he a straight shot from the head unit to the antenna with no coils of excess wire. The coils or bound wire acts as a mag pickup for interference.

@joshrichard Thats a first gen R50 swing gate. Grab it if you can/want one. They are getting harder to find

They are tough to compress. Unless a shop has a dedicated spring compressor the task can be really challenging. I had a shop compress my HD coils ( I thought OME Front HD coils were PN# 2608?) and they claimed it took more effort than most coils.

Yes, that should help. Ideally your ground should be to the body or straight to the negative terminal on the battery. Im thinking your current power source grounds to the dash frame resulting in interference from the radio and wiper electrical systems on the steering wheel, both of which potentially share a dashboard frame ground.

Thats most likely becuase of the cigarette lighter power source. CB's are sensitive and require dedicated ground and (+) for clear signal and the best transmission performance.

Thank you @RedPath88!