RCWD21

I don't think it would be a relay but it is a possibility none the less. Does the compressor try to engage or does the fuse immediately blow when you push the switch? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I'm going with the old style ARB had, it follows the contour of the A pillar to the roof. I go through a lot of tight places and a snorkel with a forward facing top hat would either get lost or broken off. Plus it's $170 vs $300+. I found it on ebay, just search d21 snorkel and you'll see what I'm going with. To me it looks a lot better than a smrun of the mill snorkel that you usually see.

I'll take a pic of my dash in the morning incase it's of any help.

I've had mine unplugged for so long I thought something was wrong when I plugged it back in and forgot that I had done so lol Could be a fuse if you haven't checked those, also another spot I've come across that took me forever to find is the printed circuit for the back of the cluster where it bends into where the plugs for the harness clip in. They could be cracked or dirty.

Hopefully it's something simple, don't forget to check your dimmer switch. I had one that tested good with a meter but was too gunked up inside to work with voltage. I have spares of a lot of small parts now just incase.

Honestly I didn't even think about using string, I guess if I used a silicon coupler between the air box and whatever tubing I'm going to be using that would open my options up a bit more, I think k I've found what I need but size has been the final question. Thanks for the tip though, I've been juggling 4 different vehicles so my brain is on the fritz lately

Ill be 23 in a few weeks, I just bite off more than I can chew sometimes and my brain just goes on strike haha

Cuong I think the flap of plastic sticking forward is supposed to be just on the other side of the bottom dash cover, also try loosening your steering column bolts and pull back on the steering wheel a bit and retighten the bolts. I think in your case it's a little too far forward for some reason causing the tight spot. Is yours round or square dash? I can't remember.

Each timing belt I've done on my pathfinders and hardbody made a whirring noise after I closed everything up. I used the twist method too and even tried tightening and loosening the belt slightly on my old pathfinder and honestly I just summed it up to being a cheap (ie not a gates brand) belt. An 89 has a square tooth belt, are you sure you got the proper belt, if not it'll more than likely make noise too. As for driving it for 100 miles its a 50/50 chance. It could break today or next Wednesday. The sooner you check it the better. In my experiences though I put around 15k miles on the last belt and it always made noise, so your mileage may vary. Either way make sure you double check everything though because if the belt breaks you're going to be dealing with several bent valves. In my unfinished 87 I had to replace all of the valves due to the previous owners neglect and pure lack of care. Oh and for the drive belts I don't think them being on one way or another would make any difference, if they're old I'd replace them anyways.

I'm looking to put a snorkel on my 87 and I'm trying to figure out if anyone knows what size tubing fits over the end of the airbox for a TBI unit? I'm not too good with figuring out circumference from 2 or 3 measurements. What has everyone used with their snorkels at that joint in thè system?

Mine shattered like glass when I jacked up the body. My lines are all bent weirdly anyways so I don't see the point in replacing the clips. I'm just going to run plastic wire loom over them to help gaurd them from abrasion and to help hide them a little bit. Sent from inside my potato

Ok, it still doesn't show my first post but I hope it helps you out. I've been working for 5 hours trying to get the metal clutch lines mounted and stretched to fit the body lift. It's a pain mounts the rubber line without that clip to hold it tight to the bracket Sent from inside my potato

I'm not sure if this posted earlier or not but the pic is sideways on here so the top fuel line is the one coming from the filter, it goes to the fuel rail inlet which is the forward most metal line. The return is the bottom fuel line and is the rear most metal line. *If this is a double post then please delete it as I posted this morning but when I open this sub thread nothing but the original post shows up. Sent from inside my potato

Not sure if you're mpfi or not but for mpfi the hose on the right is the line coming from the fuel filter and the hose on the left is the return from the fpr. Input to the fuel rail is the forward most line when looking from the right side of the engine bay. Hope this helps! If you're tbi I can take pics in about 30 min if needed. ** This pic posts sideways so UP is forward.** Sent from inside my potato

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Any unmetered air after the maf can cause idle issues because the computer doesn't know what to do since there's extra air but the throttle body is still closed, so it tries adjusting the fuel mixture adding to the surging problem. When you drive like this the oxygen sensor is getting one reading while the ecu is telling the engine to do something different. Check and replace all of your vacuum lines if you haven't already and also check the tube between the air box and the throttle body for cracks and splits. Sent from inside my potato

I've had the bottom half with the metal weight in it fall on my face a few times working under the dash! It hurts! But it was my fault for not taking both half off before hand. Why take off both half when you can get to everything from the top right? Some days I think my brain stays in bed a few extra hours in the morning lol Sent from inside my potato

Bad gas, dirty injectors, bat cat causing an issue. It could be several things. Does it do it every single time you drive and take your foot off the gas? Sent from inside my potato

Definitely lol, it's been weird to say the least. The wheel tilt mechanism gave me that sort of problem on my old pathfinder too, if you move the lever one way it let's it move all the way up so you can get out (I don't know why that's a feature bit it is) but if you push the lever the other direction it will sort of lock it in place. If you push the lever that same direction you can sort of adjust where the wheel sits in relation to its angle and height. Sometimes taking the column cover off and spraying the parts with pb blaster will free it all up. I'm not sure if you've taken your column cover off lately but when you do you'll see what I mean, if you move the lever both directions you'll see a small arm move. I think it's also connected to the spring too? Anyways check on that, hopefully nothing is broken there. It's probably just grease that's stiffened up. Oh and I can't remember which direction it is but I think moving the lever up is for small adjustments and down is to let the wheel move all the way up or down. But be careful since that spring is pretty strong when everything is lubricated properly Sent from inside my potato

Sorry for the super late reply, I've been swamped with work and life but it's a possibility that the pin could be broken, it's not really all that big and just sitting in the driver seat if you yank on the wheel hard enough you can easily break the lock pin if you get it just right. Sent from inside my potato

Mine were stuck in there really tight from scale deposits and rust. I had to heat the block up for a pretty long time to get it hot enough to break free. This was with the engine on a stand though so I had better leverage. Have you tried heating it up to see if it helps? Obviously be incredibly careful since the fuel lines are on that side but it should come out in time. Sent from inside my potato

I didn't realize it's been an entire month since I posted but I haven't messed with rust much since I got my parts in recently. It's now 3 inches taller and there's a ton more rust than I though under the back seats. Like I can see the carpet sticking out. Oh well at least I have more room if I want to incorporate storage under the seats. As for welding the tubes in for the rockers I've had a good bit of practice with the new welder and if push comes to shove I can have our local welder (family friend) tig weld everything in place once I tack it in with the mig. My plan for rust proofing the new metal is to spray it down with a few layers of good rust proofing paint and then scuff it up once that's cured and roll on a thick layer of bedliner. I'll have a piston pin out of a jetski welded in through the tube so the sun roof still has its drain in the normal spot. And if I do it right I may be able to use the rockers as an air tank for air horns. I'll have a larger tank for on board air in the rear or possibly on top of the shock hoop mounts in the rear, I've found several odd shaped tanks that should work great for that area. Sent from inside my potato

Just checking in to see if you figured anything out with the steering lock, any luck? Sent from inside my potato

Well the 3 wires that go along side the starter wire went into a black junction box that in turn connected to the positive lead for the battery. The clips on the ends were just simple spade terminals inside the plastic clip part, i popped it open and it's one solid piece of metal joining all 3 terminals together. They now have ring terminals on them. And if it matters I clipped the wires directly behind the plastic connectors. As for the fusible link that melted it's wire leads across the front of the pathfinder and into the wires that come down and head towards the alt, ignition coil, and those things in that area. My problem is though, I can never find a connection that is exactly like the one I have/had. It's always too small. The wire that this connects into is white with I believe a black stripe. I even looked in an 88 hardbody and it was different. As for the mixture heater grid it isn't cracked or chipped and looks almost brand new and it's also not shorted out, I checked while I was rebuilding the throttle body just incase there was a problem. Also sorry for the late reply, I never got a notification for this thread and I've also been looking into buying a 1993 mazda rx7 and giving my 98 subaru impreza wagon to my dad. Sent from inside my potato

Sorry for the super late update but here's the fan controller: Here's the way I have the fan currently mounted to the radiator: Here's the 14/5 multi conductor wire I used to lead to the controller inside the cab: And here's the 10/3 wire I used to power the fan: Sent from inside my potato

Got my missing filler hose extension yesterday, it's a nice shiny black piece of steel tubing now I can finally finish the body lift up and start messing with the rust under the rear seats. Wasn't feeling too good today so the other pics I promised will have to wait until tomorrow, but on the bright side I'm going to get an early start on things [emoji14] Sent from inside my potato