CDN_S4

Scored a leather tonneau cover off an Infinity for $5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Watched that trailer earlier today! Looks awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great looking pathy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

35's still would only fit with trimming the front fenders and I'm quite sure the rear too as lifting it pushes the rear wheels forward. I'm currently on a 4" SFD with lift coils and on 33's and my rears are pretty close to the fenders towards the front. I'm quite sure 35's would rub. Besides, IMO 33's are the PERFECT size for the R50. If you want to see 35's, look up CNAM's ride.

I'm closer! lol I would definitely be interested in an adjustable set, or simply a set that's an inch longer and centres the wheels again. Are these hollow Steve?

Welcome. Nice colour! You will need significant trimming and other mods to fit 35's on this! Be advised that the 3.3 is not very strong to begin with, re gearing would be highly recommended for 35's. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah your reply sounds more like my clicking. But like I said it doesn't appear to come from the actual door as I can shake the door and it doesn't make a sound. It's only while driving. And only over rougher roads, not daily driving on "smooth" pavement. Also, I first heard this after my bumper was first installed. Here is a list of things I thought it was, but wasn't: 1- the grab strap of the winch hook flopping in the wind against the truck. 2- my fog light wires flopping in the wind, against the truck. 3-something hanging lose inside the wheel well or between the door. I haven't taken the door apart yet, I've tried last night without doing any research on how to take it apart and didn't get very far. I took the screw out of the door handle and lifted the window buttons assembly out. Behind it I saw some bolts behind a see through plastic layer, and no other obvious screws or bolts. I also tried to pry the upper plastic off, as it appears to be separate from the rest, but I think I popped out a screw so I stopped. So haven't gotten into the door yet. I'm just not convinced it's inside there. I'm going to check all heat shields and skids today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^ I like this idea, however it sounds a lot more complicated than the other option of simply welding on armour. XplorX used a triangle shaped design. You could also take a 1/2 square tube and weld the entire arm in it, leaving the top open for the welds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hate these "ID this weird sound" threads since it's super hard to describe a sound, but I'm about to lose my mind with this one. 1. What it sounds like: Imagine a small metal stick, maybe an inch or two, that's only attached at the one end, and sits between 2 pieces of sheet metal. 2. When I hear the sound: Every time I drive over some bumps it clicks. It sounds like it's a lose piece somewhere but it's nothing mechanical. It doesn't sound heavy or weight bearing. 3. When I don't hear the sound: Oddly enough, I've been able to temptation stop it by opening and closing my door as it sounds like it's coming from inside my door. But when I open the door and shake it, I can't reproduce the sound. 4. Where is it coming from? It appears to come from the area by my left knee, maybe a lower. It seems like it would be inside the door but I can't seem to recreate the sound by shaking it. I've inspected under the steering wheel, inside the fender, in the door jamb, and there is nothing lose anywhere. Has anybody else experienced this by any chance?! Thx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can't you just only cut half the bump stop instead of the full bump stop to make the gap on lifted applications smaller? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could even re-use the ends of the oem ones and just weld (or have welded) a stronger mid section in place. I'm fleurting with the idea too, as well as add an inch to it. I'm on WJ coils and they likely won't get compressed all the way very often and if they do, there would still be room for the wheel to tuck, just like there is room for it to move forwards. But at least for the majority of regular driving it would sit back in the centre. Let me know how you make out. I would think round is stronger than square, for the same reason submarines are round, not square. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sitting on the ferry now on the way back. Was a fun little trip down to the coast, island hopping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going exploring, see yas later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I seem to have a similar "thud" or "pop" coming from my steering when I turn the wheel. It feels like it's from the left strut, so I disassembled it yesterday, put in an new strut mount and bearing ($35CAD) reassembled everything, doing a much better job than the first time when I did it very poorly lol. However, while some sounds are gone, the "pop" in the steering is still there. A remanufactured rack and pinion from A1Cardone only costs $220 USD, and at least then you know the state of it, plus get a 3 year warranty. My concern with a JY one would be that you have no way of knowing if it's not damaged or even worse than yours. I'm sure you would hate to find out after spending hours under your truck. Plus the new racks usually come with inner tie rods. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can do inner and outers or just outers. Depends on what you need. Sounds like you need a lot. I did both of mine. I did not remove the sway bar. I didn't have to remove anything. Just make sure you have zap straps to tie the boots back on when you're done. There isn't a "kit" AFAIK, I bought the parts I needed form autoparts warehouse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the airlift 1000 but didn't install it yet due to the WJ springs I have in the rear now. I don't see how it would replace the sway bar characteristics. If anything it might make it worse as the spring will always be taller and thus allowing more sideways sway. Even at high PSI they are still flexible material. But your plan sounds good to maintain your height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Seen them installed on swing out bumper carriers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recently replaced mine. If you are able to rent a tie rod tool that would make your life easier to remove the inners. But a small pipe wrench will do the job too, that's what I used. The process is not too difficult as long as your parts cooperate. There is a washer that needs to have its tabs bent back so the head can spin. There are multiple DIY videos on YouTube, most tie rod applications are the same or similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks really good man! Glad this has finally been settled!! Kudos! Now I'll be itching to scavenge junkyards for one lol. Although I'll stick with modifying my hitch carrier for now. Will tilt the spare on an angle for better weight distribution and move the Jerries to each side of the tire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think once I get more things scratched off my to do list, I might look into a ladder. Likely one that will mount both on the bumper swing out on the bottom and the tailgate on top, but with a hinge. It would also be made of 2 parts so that it would retain the option to open the rear window. What comes to mind would be a simple Ying Yang type design, not sure how else to describe it. The top end of the lower half would be half round and half flat. The flat part would have a rubber pad to prevent vibration against the flat part of he top half which would mirror the connector the same way and be on a hinge on the top. Not sure if I'm describing it will enough but I think that would work and would be pretty unique too. But maybe a bit too complex lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have steel wheels also, and 33's. I only have a VG. Wish it was a VQ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man. My gas mileage did not change from the lift. I replaced my brake calipers and have new axles, this has helped my gas mileage as before my brakes were slightly touching the pads. I can get 400km out of a full tank on highway type driving, but only 350km in town traffic. Obviously it's not quite as "good" as stock, with the upsided tires and added weight. But overall I can't say there is a drastic difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nice find on those ladders Kyle! That "FJ" one seems pretty useless as it's too far away and kinda looks stupid. The first one seems pretty cool in how it's mounted and still leaves the rear window uncovered, but it does remind me of a fold away boat ladder.

^^ Sounds like you need a backup camera, Nova! Patrick, this is awesome that you finally decided to just guinea pig this! Glad to hear this appears to support the weight without any reinforcement. I had been thinking about this for a bit and thought that some sort of exterior reinforcement might work too. Basically a base plate on the outside to distribute the weight over a wider surface and not focus it so much to the bolts on the 2 mounts. Not as OEM as you typically like your stuff, but just an idea.

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