hawairish

Yeah, it just unbolts from the unibody. It probably needs some maintenance like Rebelord did. I've gotten dirt up there before on mind and my Frontier; jams it up a little. I've found it helpful to give some left-right turns to loosen it, with the occasional tire-kick and negative vocal encouragement.

Coffee/Friday. The imaginary wheel hub is on the left for all the images, so the perspective is up to you (looking at vehicle front = driver's side; looking at vehicle rear = passenger side). I'd suggest looking at the line that meets the right side of the blue Backspace/BS arrow...that's where the rim meets the wheel hub. Those 4.5" BS will move the wheel center 0.75" inward on each side over 3.75" BS.

I'm close to scrapping this particular approach. After talking with MCP, they can't ensure that I'll get replacement 180°s like the one I received, and I'm not willing to chance it. If the replacements are anything like what I received, they'll fail. The springs on the 90°s are just too tough to compress (and unnecessarily so), and MCP won't sell the springs that came on the 180°s separately. This was what two of my QILs were doing: If I gently tugged the ball joint stud out, it would seize in the housing and prevent motion without popping it back in. It didn't take much effort, and these came fully greased. If I were to install these, they would just constantly wedge and pop before eventual failure. You can see the spring differences below. The "perfect" joint is on the right; takes minimal effort pull the collar. The middle spring is better than the 90° and would also be acceptable. I'm sure I won't remove the links often, but I imagine that every time I do, it'll be a hassle assuming I don't end up cutting my hand trying. I've been looking for a suitable spring replacement in hopes of keeping the joints, but nothing has been close on size...and anything I've found costs 2x-4x what I paid for the joint itself. I'll still end up taking a small hit after returning these, unfortunately. Chalk up to R&D. I may try the McMaster-Carr joints, but they are more expensive and for all I know, they may just be MCW joints, too.

Finally home from my work travel and getting a good look at these. I'm seeing some of your concerns with these as well. The 90° joints are a bit tough to open as you noted. Too tough, actually. Otherwise, I think they're quality parts, and I'm not concerned about noise with these. The 180° joints...well, there's good and bad, I guess. The springs on these are better; big improvement over the 90° joints. Of the 4 I ordered, I can wiggle the ball joint out of one without even pulling the collar down. Not good, obviously. Two others appear fine, but with a small amount of pull, they bind and lose the ability to swivel. Also not good, especially since they all came greased. I can see these seizing and failing. Once the collar is pulled down, the joint needs to be at about a 30° angle to remove, which is a bit excessive, just makes it tougher to install/remove. The worst part is the nearly 1/8" of up/down play on the ball in the socket...that will be a major source of noise and failure. Now, the 4th one I got is quite different from the others...in fact, it's perfect. At first, I was concerned it may just be the wrong part, but it's definitely the same size and dimensions. The spring requires much less effort (almost effortless). The up/down play in the ball socket is minimal...I need a dial indicator to tell. It doesn't bind at all when pulled. It has a few more degrees of swivel (not that this is necessary), but it also needs less angle (~15°) to disconnect...and with a tiny amount of filing, it could be 0°, which makes removal and installation that much easier. So, I'll be giving these guys a call on Tuesday to get some things sorted out. I don't think they do returns, but I consider the other 3 defective...I can't/won't use them. If they can get me 3 more like that 4th one, and also provide/sell me springs like the one, that would make these a totally viable solution. However, the springs aren't easily replaced...I'll probably need to destroy the springs to remove them, but new springs I would be able to get them on relatively easily. I also picked up a plated steel rod and 1/2-20 die. I'm going to try making a finished rod or two this weekend.

He's a ninja.

I'm sure it's been done, but it's more challenging than a 3" or 4". With a 2" subframe spacer, you don't much room for hardware or tools inside the spacers, so you need longer bolts. For the front, you'd need 4x 9" long bolts, and they aren't cheap; not a problem for the rears. Space would be limited for the motor mount spacers. A workaround would be cutting the heads off bolts and welding them to the spacers. How I know: I tried to make a 1.5" SFD for another member, and I made a 2.5" SFD for myself. Planning to go up to 3" soon.

Looks good, man!

That's along the lines of what I'm thinking, too. My other thought is that a slight difference in end length might keep enough tension on the sway bar, but I wonder if it'll make it tough to install/remove. They also can't be too different in length.

These seem like the very last things I would do. Was there any way to loosen the motor mounts to get some play out of it? I mean, that was kinda your original question, but unless your unibody is shrinking, I can't think it's more than just a minor alignment issue as described above. I wish you the best of luck of course, but I'm a little worried the next post will involve a sawzall!

Not as much as I'd like, but some things progressing. I'm planning to up things to a 3" SFD and release that information instead of a 2.5". Nothing wrong with the 2.5" approach, but 3" steel is just easier to acquire and work with. I'll be testing things hopefully in the coming month or two, but my work/travel schedule is limiting my time.

As promised, eBay links: High strength steel Stainless Steel Note the pics are just generic pics, and I had him mention that the HSS isn't plated. He can do custom sizes, lengths, and quantities. But if anyone else is willing to give it this a shot, there you go! The heim joints seem to be favorable in general, but the reason I'm wanting to see how this goes is just because the perceived simplicity. All those other joints have spacers, collars, and pins...too many loose parts to fudge with. I really like the idea of one-handing it all, if it can really be that easy. But yes, securing the bar is the other half of the problem. (I have no doubt some guys are biting their tongue about the 'just remove it!' theory)

Finally found some posts about someone else's attempt at using these disconnects. Jeep: http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-show-tell-33/tried-making-swaybar-disco-129056/ Isuzu: http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=66914 I'm obviously not the first to go this route. It helped knowing what to call these things. Oh, per the Isuzu thread, McMaster-Carr sells the joints also, just not the inline (S/QIL) ones: http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-joint-linkages/=x4os1i. I'm guessing they're the same, but at least there's another supplier. The last guy on that thread said he had some problems disconnecting, but I gotta wonder if it's just about the angle or something. Obviously, they should go in without issue...so I'd think they'd come out without issue. (Guess we'll find out.) Both read like there will be some noise, but I'll chance it. I figure no matter how you look at it, most disconnects have metal-metal contact...noise is seemingly a given. However, those same posts have some other approaches using Heim joints...so at least you can try another route. Note that in the Jeep thread, MCP gave specs of 5389 lbs for ball stud breakage and 1500 lbs socket pull. Those seem sufficient, but we'll know eventually. Again, if SJ produces links with them (the QIs anyway), then who knows. Also, the eBay guy came back with $69 shipped for a set of 4 links in either flavor. Both include hardware (8 nuts), but the price on the high strength steel doesn't include plating; he'll get me that price separately. I'm waiting to post the listings because I want him to make some little corrections so there aren't any mixed signals if anyone else wants to go this route.

Meant to reply to this earlier, but ran short on time. Although I know you're already trying to source a set, I think the TJM brackets are actually a really good KISS solution. Far simpler than the others I've seen (see below). The way I see it, these are designed for a winch bumper similar to the ARB. The folded-over metal on the upper part of the bracket does a lot to add rigidity. It's also designed to succumb to significant impact so that in a collision, the bumper moves downward to deflect impact (the angled tie ins prevent the bumper from wrapping upward). But in direct collision, it's simple enough to distort inward, and even retains the stock crush cans. You want something to have a weak point here, otherwise, the rest of the vehicle and it's passengers absorb the impact. But as you can see, it's also designed to distribute pulling forces from winching. I personally think this is the perfect solution. Now, compare to these: The gray ones are ARB. I don't know about the black ones. These are ridiculous from a manufacturing standpoint; tons of cuts, welds, punches, bends, gussets...and they all do the same thing: hold a bumper, collapse on impact. I'm sure they're solid, but they reinvented the wheel to get there. I can't even imagine the amount of man hours on these...no wonder ARBs cost so much. I'm not even sure I like the tow points on the ARB. TJM = 3 pieces of steel + 1 bend + 1 hour of welding. That's the direction I'd go.

I got a response from the eBay guy...he actually put up two auction links and gave a single price for all the items I spec'd (1/2" and 3/8" sizes) instead of individual prices. He can do a high strength steel (needs plating to be anti-corrosion for a little extra $) or SS (but not as strong). It averaged out to about $16/shaft, shipped, for either option. That's good enough for me! These are also nice, finished shafts, not just a fully threaded rod. I'm going to ask him to modify the auctions to just be for the 1/2" shafts in the actual quantities any one person might need to make a front and rear set. He also ships to Canada, eh! The lengths I'm having him go with are 4.5" and 6", which allows for a front link up to 1" less in length over OE (6.5"-7.5") and a rear link of 8-5/8" to 9-5/8" (for lifts of 1.5" to 2.5"). At max length, though, you're only using 1/2" of thread length (the connector ends are only 1" deep). I'm also asking him to price one more option: same specs except with a 5/8" rod turned down to 1/2" at the ends and two parallel flats milled at the center of the shaft to accommodate a 1/2" wrench. This way the shaft is never less than 1/2" dia. and we can prevent the shaft from turning when the end nuts are tightened against the connectors. Not sure how necessary this might be, but doesn't hurt to get a price.

I actually have the pics of the other brackets on my iPad, but no way to upload them until tonight. I think I found them on an Aussie site.

Give this a look-see: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23286-tjm-t-15-install/ ARB's bracket design is a little more elaborate, and I've seen a 3rd bracket style somewhere that was overkill, but the TJM seemed about right...allows for crumpling, but solid enough for pulls.

Ah yes, that bottom pic. I thought I saw something more substantial than that, but you're right. I thought it tied in lower with the boltholes for the OE tow hook plates. I've pulled my bumper before and those plates are very weak (I had to bend one a little).

I was pretty sure he didn't re-use any part of the OE brackets. Doesn't look like you'd be able to re-drill or use the parts of the new bumper's bracket that you have to cut off?

Guess that's a good thing. I mean, we've spelled out the concept clearly so hopefully anyone who's looking for a solution finds it here. Also hope they chime in with their results to keep this as a resourceful thread for everyone.

I agree. You'll have to let me know how the parts are when you get them, since you'll see them before I will. No word from the eBay guy yet.

You could try a small L bracket on the perch and go with 8 SQI500 (the SS versions) instead. I actually have some concerns over the pulling force of the S/QIL500 anyway, but using them seems to be a more ideal setup to me. The problem with only 1 wire loop is that nothing "resets" the side without a loop. A droop on the looped side will tug the sway bar end upwards, but when the body roll returns to center (or a droop on opposite side), nothing tugs that sway bar end back up, which means the looped side's sway bar end may actually contact something when that side's tire tucks. Both loops just allow the chassis to tug the sway bar ends to articulate the sway bar, but by not being rigid, they defeat the sway bar's function. But with only 1 loop, you'd always end up with a sway bar pointing upwards. I think the logic applies to both front and rear axles, but it may actually be possible to pin the front bar up and skip the loops altogether. The problem is that the front sway bar's arms angle away from the wheel well, so an attachment point in the wheel well might not be close enough (or at an angle that the link can't handle). But, I like the original plan because it can be done one-handed, blindly, and you wouldn't have to go back and forth between tires to pin it up (i.e., unlink pass side, unlink driver side, pin up driver side, pin up pass side....though I guess you wouldn't need to pin up the other side?)

I've got a message out to a guy on eBay who sells threaded shafts and does special orders. I asked him about 1/2" sizes that I'll be going with, but also about two 3/8" options for you. The first option is just a 3/8" rod with RH threads on both sides, but the other is a 1/2" rod that's turned down to 3/8" at the ends. That way, you've got a slightly beefier option and can still have a no-drill solution (though in hindsight, I could've asked for something a little more substantial, like 5/8" or 3/4"). Regardless, we have options for beefier links at any size. I also asked him to give some options for materials that were close to a Grade 8 zinc-plated. For me, that's all I need (dry heat here), but perhaps he's got a suitable SS option for you. I'm going to buy a 1/2-20 die and explore making my own threaded shafts. The big box stores didn't have any UNF threaded rods, but they had steel/SS rods. An shipping is probably terrible for any sizable length of rods. I have a compound miter saw that I rigged up for chopsaw cuts (worked great for the SFD spacers). But if push came to shove, I'm sure you could hacksaw threaded rod found locally? Also, I was thinking about effective link lengths. For the front link, my logic might be incorrect...the "corrected" length might actually be a little less than the OE effective length. Any lift (strut spacer or lift coil) not netted out by SFD spacers cause the attachment point on the strut to actually get lower relative to the sway bar. So to keep the sway bar at it's stock (and presumably "ideal") angle, then a shorter link is needed...but there's definitely a limit to this logic. In the rear when lifted, it's moving higher relative to the sway bar, so a longer length is needed. In all likelihood, I'll leave the effective link about the same up front because I know it's working as is, but I will increase the rear link about 2". Let me know what threaded rod lengths you come up with. I've got: 5.5" of 1/2" rod to maintain 7.5" length up front using two QI500 4.5" of 1/2" rod to maintain 7-1/8" using one QI500 and one QIL500 5.5" of 3/8" rod to maintain 7-1/8" using one QI375 and one QIL375

Ah yes, they had limited stock on the SS stuff. But the non-SS is zinc galvanized and should hold up pretty well. Don't buy the rods...one side is LH thread. The disconnects are RH thread. I'm heading to Lowes in a few to check their supply if fine threaded rods...thinking they'll only have coarse thread though.

Well, I just ordered enough to make two sets of front and rear of disconnects. Went with the 1/2" all around. The discount volume is great...shipping was a bit pricey for UPS Ground...it was almost half the order. Total was just under $90 shipped...but enough to make 4 sets of links?! Totally worth it. If it doesn't work out, well, I have another project where these might come in handy (hint: a tailgate for the PF as part of a project rear cargo system). About the U-bolt plate...I plan to get a plates around 1.25"W x 4"L and use them at all attachment points, front and rear. Each will have two bends: a 45° that the wire rope will loop through to keep it away from the link, and a U-shaped bend that will "wrap" the attachment point (bigger U shape for the sway bar ends, smaller/flatter U for the rear upper and strut perches. The U part will have a hole on both sides for the ball joint threaded shafts to go through; the U shape will act like a washer on both sides of the attachment point and will prevent the tab from rotating when it pulls on the sway bar (when the links are off, that is).

Where are you seeing them not in stock? A small dab of multi-purpose should be sufficient I'd think. I doubt there's much play in the socket to need gobs of it. And judging by their drawing, there's a small pocket behind the socket where grease can reside.