Bunchie

I only hope he was able to realize some of his dreams. Life can be so fleeting and too many "good" people are taken from us prematurely. Theres no explaining it. Condolences to all affected by his passing, V.

I use a product called "Beyond Black" by Surf City for the tires(&anything else rubber)and Simonize Ultra Protectant on everything else black plastic. That being said, most of these products are silicone containing so they will only last a few months at best. On a slightly different note, I absolutely advocate the use of RainX. That $#it is AWESOME! It's like having a brand new windshield when it rains and makes scraping the frost off, effortless. Bin usin it for years.

Well, oh, welcome btw, depending on the extent of the exhaust system damage, you could simply go to a muffler shop and get them to replace the pipe/resonator section w/a piece of pipe right to the bumper-simple & cheap and then you will know what it sounds like w/just the muffler. That way you should have a few extra $$ for list of other things you're going to want to do. My 2cw.

Great pix! And you remind me of my son, a tall, good looking ginger! Didja wear yer sunscreen? -lol. And I also like the last pic, you rebel, thumbing yer nose at the law and parking in the "NO PARKING" zone-haha.

CO_pf, do you know if the starter was ever changed by a PO? Mine was OE and I got 14 years of service out of mine (swallowed hard, took it like a man and opted for the shop to do it-lol) before it started to show the signs yours is now. Used it for my work truck for min 6 yrs and must have started it a trillion times-haha, so it really didn't owe me anything at this point in its life. Sad thing is, what actually fails/wears out is the brushes and the commutator ends up, over time, getting carbon transfer and severely degrades the electrical contact point between the 2 parts. In my youth (just after they invented rocks and fire) I remember my dad rebuilding many a starter by getting new brushes at the stealership and using a "deburnishing tool" on the commutator itself to get it all shiny and new looking. It was such a simple job to do. That part of the job always took the least amount of time. Not even sure if those parts are even available at the dealers any more...sigh. we now live in a hermetically sealed parts world, where things are simply thrown away and cant be repaired by Joe Aveage. What a sad legacy we have left for our children...Sorry, I'm just rambling now. If the weather would figue out what it's going to do today, I plan to reassemble the now scrubbed clean interior parts back into Goldy, replace a broken cat stud and button up the exhaust and maybe do a oil change/spark plug replacement too. Again weather permitting-tomorrow is supposed to be nice they're telling us, so we see...

Some would call that a test drive-lol.

Ride looks good, BTW.

Stupid technology...um, empty yer truck...no, wait, I guess that would be counter productive, wouldn't it? Light=fast. Heavy=slow...it's how trucks work. Laughing at you a little. :-)

Hey y'all y'all, I went to the local RV accy plc and bought a plugnplay kit for $46CAN taxes in...painless. Hey rc, the brake pressing action also disengages the shift lockout and probably a few otherthings we haven't figured yet. Remember, the relay itself is a DPDT so it can do more than 1 action. if you already have a Flat 4 connector setup(grn & yel-turns & stop, brn-running lights & wht-ground) you will need 2 x 14 gauge for trailer brake trigger (in & usually blue) and B/U light-the center pin(color yer choice)and if you wish, a single 12 gauge for a trailer Aux power(Red). I just Googled "4 flat to 7 pin trailer wiring nissan", image, and there are lots of good pix/diagrams of the Wiring Standards for this query.

As I didn't actually know what "limb risers" were, I asked Lord Goggle and he showed me pictures of them-lol. I also saw a pic of some Smittybuilt brackets that I would imagine attach to the forward end of the fenders. Maybe that would be something fairly simple to fab. MJO, your diy front bumper could be added onto to give you a more forward point to mount them to...just sayin

Brother Man, that DOES suck! A lot of factors contribute to the aaah, how shall put this?.?.?.the uncontrolled, obtuse angle, detrimental, parking action you and your passengers recently found yourselves in. The road conditions, tires, weight within the vehicle and how it was distributed, etc. Also consider you as the driver, your overall driving expertice and how and what you did/didn't do to mitigate your deposit into the afore pictured ditch. Or as to quote my ever tactful(NOT) wifey, "wtf, is he an idiot? Who drives into a ditch?!?!?"(you can take that for what it's worth-lol) Also I did NOT immediately respond with, "Me! twice, no wait, 3 times to be precise" cuz after being 30+ years w/the same woman, it behoves me NOT to give her any ammunition as I already provide her towards the undisputable evidence that she married an idiot-HAHA!! Just to be clear, 2 of those 3 times, road conditions were leading cause. The other time, well, that was definitely me, just being fakin retaaaaaded! Oh and the time I spun it 180º into the opposite curb and did $1800 worth of suspension damage. Conditions; cold, wet, slick wide white crosswalk lines, ****** tires and a good deal of weight in the truck...oh yeah maybe speed factored into it too. We all F up, the thing is to LEARN from it!!! BTW, I personally don't think that ur gonna be able to buff that out. Ur truck was looking good before that sadness. You may want to start hunting for a $1000 or less donor truck and put all ur goodies into that. Even with the limited view of ur damage I can see, it very well may be a cheaper way to go... Just sayin... Good luck

So I guess the real question is: How much does Jimmy John's pay you to drive ur baby into the ground?

I'll give you my opinion: you have to ask yourself, how invested am I in a 15 yo, 300K truck? Is it my DD/Toy or both? Don't get me wrong, ive had a 510, a 240Z, Celica & an 81 Mercury Monarch-302HO, ALL stick cars & ALL fun!! But if ur gonna use it for its intended purpose(4wheelin) then stick w/the automatic. Overall I believe it's the better choice. Either fix the reverse prblm or drive a half hour to the Wack and get one at Pickapart. At least their prices are advertised and somewhat warrantied-lol. My 2CW...oh I guess it's my 5CW now as we no longer have pennies, haha.

Gentlemen, granted the next generation of mechanical connections/crimping tools do an exceptional job, I, as a NONrecovering tool junkie, have a hard time justifying the cost of a lot of these types of tools/fittings because of the limited use Victor Average will use the damn thing. And I can honestly say I haven't seen a decent solder job fail. My perspective....

Ratchet wrenches are the S#it!! I got both SAE & Metric. They cost a pretty penny but worth every one of them. Maybe HF has their our brand like Princess does up here. I lucked out, both 12 pc sets at my local swap meet, new, for under a $100-WINNING! And Princess has their own brand-seen them on sale lately for under $100.

THAT sounds like no distributor vacuum advance. I may be talking out of my butt (correct me if I'm wrong) but the distributor needs to be mechanically advanced when you put ur foot into it, ie: vacuum to suck the diaphragm and move the dist base plate, in turn advancing the spark timing. If you have no vacuum advance, any acceleration relies on the weights on the base plate to do any advancing and THAT'S painfully slow. Does it behave that way in P or N? W/the 3.3, ur still dealing a w/vacuum controlled engine. 3.5(w/I got)is ALL electronic. Different beast entirely. Get/borrow a simple vacuum guage-most are even marked "Vacuum Leak"(mine is) & see what it says. The other test is: remove cap/rotor, plug a long enough piece of vac hose to the vacuum diaphragm, while looking at the dist base plate, suck on the hose and see if the base plate turns slightly. If it don't, either the diaphragm/rod/plate are the problem (maybe check ur old one 1st. Lemme know what you find. Cheers, V

I also have to consider the charge(s) at the border once I bring it across from my mailbox in Blaine. That and my ****** Can $. It kinda sux working on 2 PF's that need a lot of new parts at this point in their lives-lol.

Hey Brian, electricity, not unlike water, will find the shortest route to ground. A Sparky's 1st rule, hence your problems. If poss, double up on the heat shrink, solder ur connections when at all possible (a true mechanical connection) and use dielectric grease(moisture protection)on ALL ur spade & terminal connectors. I'm not sure what the speaker mfgr's are thinking when including that 24 Guage @!*%e wire they throw in the packaging but NEVER use it. Unless you are driving a stupid amount of amps, 18/2 STRANDED is more than addiquit for your purposes. Homie D/Lowes has it by the foot-and always get more than you THINK you need. I LOVE tools but I have yet to find a "wire stretcher-lol. 27+ years as a low voltage technician, I know of what I speak.

Remus, thx for the clarity on this as I've never purchased anything from RA or much of anything else online for that matter and rather just ask a Q if I'm not sure. Going to check w/my parts dood and see what sort of pricepoint he can get me and try to keep it local. Learned a long time ago, those who think they know everything are overcompensating for something and will be made to look the fool, sooner or later.

HEY those last few answers answered a Q I hadn't gotten around to asking yet, THANX!

BEST carpet cleaner I ever found is a product called FOLEX. Been around for 40 years. That @!*% is amazing! It took everything except some coffee(???) stains conveniently located under back edge of the center console. Gave up w/the Bissel Green Machine (exhausting) and just sprayed the Folex on, scrubbed w/a stiff brush (had to keep it damp w/a spray bottle in the 95ºF heat) then sucked it back out w/the W/D Shopvac.

Hey 01,thx for directional insight btw. it seems that the compatibility run is from '00 to '04. The part # 821365(Rockauto) for a "new" Cardone Select unit at $76.62CAN or I can get a A1 Select(#471365) reman for $69.93 plus $59.61 core charge???? I don't quite understand how that works or the difference in quality..can you send ur old one to them to save the $59. core charge? is the reman an OEM, just refurbished (new brushes, cleaning & grease)? And the "new" one, someone else's take the the OEM part. Do you know? Rockauto doesn't explain that "core" charge anywhere i can see. Vagueness abounds-lol. Checked out ebay and the prices are all over the map...for instance I can get a complete motor & track assy for slightly less than a motor/drive itself. TOO MANY CHOICES!!!!! All I want is the freakin window to go up & down...sigh.

Privous owner said drivers window stopped working. Fine. Pulled it all apart and have determined the motor is toast. Though a '99 one would work, NO. All Very different. Does anyone know what other years will work on the '02. Id rather locally source one if possible. Thx