SpecialWarr

I'm out of ideas at this point! Maybe a bad ground (god knows that I did a lot of re-grounding of ground wires on my weekends)??

Torsion bars are a style of spring. The other types are : LEAF and COIL which most people are more familiar with. The Pathfinder uses torsion bars up front and coils out back. The Torsion bars are a long steel bar with a specific thickness and length that use the inherent "rebound" and "spring" of the steel itself to act as a supporting spring by preloading the bar with one end anchored to the frame and the other (adjustable) anchored to the suspension. The preload sets the ride height and spring force. Easy, simple system that can take a beating. To get to the wobble: I would think that would be a rear suspension bushing problem or possibly a broken frame. I never got mine to wobble but it was doing that on the way back after I broke the frame in the mud pit. I just never got up to 65... because I killed the alternator in the mud lake and borrowed a battery from a friend who charged my battery on the way home. There are a lot of bushings in the rear suspension so I think an hour or so with a pry-bar under there poking around and you might find the loose bushing. It could also be a panhard rod (keeps the rear axle centered under the frame of the Pathfinder) bushings that have rotted out or a rusted out DeDion tube (located over the axle). Really, you need to get a mechanic under there to take a look around!

Over on www.rockauto.com: PATHFINDER 3.0L V6 Electrical-Switch & Relay Door Lock Relay BECK/ARNLEY 2030109 {#25230C9961, 25230C9971 They're like $12 +tax and shipping.

I didn't have any relays on the drivers' side kick panel, but I do recall the power window relay. I was under the impression that the PW relay and the power door locks were both over there. I remember a round thing and that was for the power locks (two big wires?) and there was a square box (6 small multicolor wires with a split ground) which was for the power windows. Both should be hiding under the carpet, behind the kick panel and held on with a big 'ole Phillips screw through the inner steel body panel.

Being that it is a high power-demand circuit I suspect that there is a bad relay causing your issue. Not that I have a circuit diagram anymore, but I recall there being a crap-ton of relays in the engine bay on both the left and right sides. IF anyone has more specific directions for this fine gentlemen please chime in!

I'm thinking that the u-joints in the driveshaft might be shot. That's mostly because my Xterra is doing the something similar. Mine u-joints are so bad that it's like I'm driving down a rutted dirt road at speeds between 80-100 km/hr. I gave my driveshaft a wiggle while I was under there to replace the front wheel bearings and the thing shakes up and down almost 6mm and you can get it to make "kilcky-klincky" noises just like that.... clearly the u-joints are done on mine! The other thing that occurs to me is that there might be a loose mount or something, but I would think you would feel that in both loaded directions (accel. and decel) with a stab at the gas pedal. And last but not least: front suspension bushings?? But I'm throwing that out there as a wild one just trying to keep ideas coming!!

If you live anywhere near the northeastern end of the country, I have a whole Pathfinder with a mint and tight engine and drivetrain. IF you want to hop the border and pick it up!

Yea DD has a lot of good stuff! I'm going to plug my phone in and slide over to my laptop to do some more reading this afternoon. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

That's probably the linkage behind the transmission on the left side. There is a ball and spring arrangement that "indexes" inside the transfer case that never seems to get serviced. I would give a shot of some spray grease or other lube on the linkage joints, that should be a big help.

That lower control arm was a gnarly thing to get off on mine, but then no one had done it before. I should have just broken all of the bolts off to begin with, that would have saved me at least 2 hours of sweating and swearing! Water under the bridge at this point. But that's living in the rust belt for you.

From Diode Dynamics: Since automotive power is 12V, and LEDs generally run best on 2-4V, depending on color, you must use resistors or other components to drop the voltage to a level the LED can work with. This is why you cannot simply plug a basic LED directly into your socket, or connect it to a 12V battery. The manufacturer will determine what the nominal (normal) voltage is to run a specific LED, known as the "forward voltage." For example, a blue LED might be rated as 3.0-3.2V. Adjusting the _voltage_ lower or higher will change the brightness, but only because it also changes the _current_; higher voltage means the current will increase in an LED. After ensuring that you have the correct voltage available to the LED, the next step is determining current. This is measured in amperes, or amps, but since it's such a small amount of current, LEDs will be rated in milliamps (mA). The more current, the brighter the LED, but there is always a maximum "running" or "constant" current, which is the max you should run the LED at, and usually there is a max "peak" current, which is the highest current the LED can withstand before completely failing. That being said I would suggest that you have either 1) an increase in resistance within the circuit board (likely, considering the possible water intrusion , location and age of the brake light) or 2) a weak grounding point. We know that the voltage is good, so that leaves only either 1) increased resistance (from corrosion, vibration, bad wire, bad ground?) or 2) a reduction in supplied power (cracked wires, poor contact surfaces). Not that this is much help to you but without seeing the board in detail there is a lot that I can't rule out!

Yes.... mine was still attached to the truck when mine came off. I tweaked the rear hanger a bit to get some clearance but ended up bolting a new chopped up piece to the original one and drilling two holes in the arm to get it to stay in place. I don't recall welding the two arms together but I may have do so later.

I'm guessing that what you needs is #4 in the drawing? I'm not sure really... but this assembly, from https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-lock-8050311g03/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9bG9jay1hbmQtaGFyZHdhcmUmaT0zNjEzMTQ1NCZyPTQmYT1uaXNzYW4mbz1wYXRoZmluZGVyJnk9MTk5NSZ0PXNlJmU9My0wbC12Ni1nYXM%3D Might be what you need.... it's just that they sell this for $178 USD.... plus shipping. I would suggest an auto recycler but these are rare around here in eastern North America.

Since the build is a 4-bar linkage, there are a lot of bushings that need to be replaced out back. I suspect that the lower links need both sets of bushings replaced (since no one seems to do those) and maybe the upper links as well. Really the only way to know what is at fault is to either replace everything with a bushing in it or take it to a mechanic and have them do it. Do NOT overlook the possibility of the frame being rotten though... rust through is a real problem with the Pathfinders (areas of concern are from the wheel wells to the bumper on both sides). If you can feel the back moving I suspect that either the DeDion tube (under the frame just over the rear axle) is rotted out and letting the frame sway a bit on impact or the frame itself is rusted to death. NOT to scare you, but you'll want to take a look at that ASAP and get it fixed. I "reinforced" my frame with some 1/8" cold-rolled steel plate (2" wide) from the front of the wheel wells to the bumper, on all four sides of the frame, both left and right sides of the truck.... not that that was _legal_ here but it was that or go back to walking.

I would think that you'll get the top 12 gallons of fuel and then have the fuel light on.... clearly you have the 21 gallon tank though. I would think a tweak to the rod would be the easiest thing to do. Close is close enough! That rod is stainless steel (IIRC) and should take to bending once or twice without trouble.

I was just looking around and found something that looks familiar, the bulb may be a #7152... it seems to be about the right size, wattage and volts. http://www.bulbtown.com/7152_Miniature_Bulb_Wire_Terminal_Base_p/7152.htm The bulb _might_ be listed in the electrical section of the FSM but my memory is hazy and I can't find my paper copy anywhere!

Mine was doing that for a while then I snugged down the screws for the valve cover.... no more "RMS" leak... which was really a leaking valve cover gasket seal between the two banks at the back next to the firewall... WaaaAAAAaaaayyyyy cheap fix!!

adamzan is the lucky one... my lines had already been off twice before I bought the truck and put back on with sheetmetal screws in a different place every time. But that's what you get when you buy a running project for $750 CAD. I was just thinking that you could maybe bend the steel rod that holds the float to get it down closer to the original height of the float.. but since you've already got 'er in there... nevermind!

Just as a side note: the o/d light flash sequence is the way to get codes out of the transmission computer. There is an easy procedure in the FSM to follow, along with the descriptions of the codes and possible causes of them. But yep... probably a bulb ( I think it's a 194 that goes in there).

Geez that's sounds good!

Well alright then! My culinary curiosity is now piqued.... I imagine that it tastes like corn?! What's the texture like? Other than bread-like, is it crumbly like a dry cake, or soft and pliable like WonderBread?

Haha... yep.. I read that.... I still don't know what it means! Raise hell... gotcha.... eat cornbread.. say wha?? lol!

Dumb question from the Canadian: what the hell does that stand for?

That is true, my apologies for being all gung-ho to get you out and back in the Pathfinder... I had forgotten that Nissan went to the e-speedo in late 1992 ( early '93??). I ... I jjust wanted to feel the love of being in the cool kids group again .... I miss my Pathfinder.