SpecialWarr

Good man! I found a whole different level of acceleration with all 6 cylinders firing... I thought i had at least 4 more cylinders!

Oh and don't forget to mill, grind, hack or chop off the front of the cat as there is a .250" inner tube part that sticks out and prevents the tubes from sealing.... at all. AND it's thick enough to need some serious elbow grease!

Two Questions: Are you alright? and is it still drive-able??

ooooOOOOOOoooohhh.... that supposed to be ATTTttaaaAAAAaaaacheddd.... i see... not good then.

Okay... I know what to lower thingy is but what is that upper thingy??

I don't know what movie it is but I'm going to join him with a shoulder-able 105, a MIDI for back-up and maybe a 6 shooter in .458 Rigby..... and a swiss army knife.... 'cause ya never know when you're going to need a corkscrew!

Not that I'm a mechanic but that sounds like either a fuel supply issue or an un-metered airflow problem. Look for cracks in the intake tubes, leaking intake seals and loose vacuum lines first.

I would guess that the 70-1198 is the 49 state kit? I believe mine reads 70-1197 on my 4x4 Auto ( though it is CARB / Canada emissions compliant), other than the annoying triangular motor hitch point on the back of the head of the drivers' side that needs to be removed, (AND dealing with broken studs) the kit went in relatively easy. Oil changes are a bit more challenging since there is very little room left to extract the filter. I just did mine and found that if you can hold the filter in the middle and use one or two fingers to spin the filter once you get it past the inner fender well / header tubes you can thread it on.... but you have to have smaller hands.

I found that mine was quite stuck when I replaced it this summer, but I don't think it's possible to get the injector out without removing the upper intake. The injector itself is held in with a steel cap, two #2 Phillips screws and sticky Viton o-rings plus dirt. I thought about not removing the intake but I needed a bit of space to be able to get to the injector cap screws. Don't forget to change the pad on the base of the old injector to the new one. I forgot to do that. But the correct procedure is in the download-able FSM!

wHAAaaat.... that's fine like it is no?!!!! Those were the only pictures I took on Saturday before the phone died. I did actually install some 24ga. sheet metal. I massaged it into place on the inside and sealed, sealed from the outside and I have another layer of 24 ga. for the outside that I'm going to put on at some time in the near future. but the carpet will at least be dry now.

A wee bit of welding. .. at my feet... where you can see the grass is the picture:

Pav to the rescue! Thanks dude!

I'm guessing that you don't live in California! There should have been another part number for the 49 state headers. The Cali and Canadian headers should come with the hole for the EGR. I would guess that you could pick up a bung at a car parts storre. The cutting invloved is with the joint at the front of the catalytic converter and not the headers themselves. There is a lip that is about .250" long that sticks out. You have to cut it off to get the headers' y-pipe to seal.

The paint that your car starts out with from the factory doesn't actually stay that color. Exposure to ultraviolet light, rain, dirt, acidic rain, diesel particulates, sea water, other volatile compounds in the air and humidity will all change the color of the paint..... Aaaaaannnnnddd it could be that there was a color change!

I think that it may be the AutoLocker hub engagement ring inside the hub. Mine was cracked and made a noise like that before I changed them for manual hubs.

I decided that it was a good day to change the rear brake rotors, cables, shoes and hardware.... not such a great day after all.... 2 hours to get the rotors off and back on, 2 broken bolts that hold the cable mount in place, a squicking noise and I pulled a muscle in my lower back while putting a wheel and tire on.... Eff it... it's going to the mechanic... I'll let him deal with it.... I'm done.

I would love to but my harness and wiring was mangled by the PO (he used home speaker wire for the right FD speaker!!)....... I don't think he owned a soldering iron either and was new to taping things together if I can judge from the state of the truck when I picked it up.

Nice looking DRO on the mill, btw!

It sounds to me like the bearing may be a teensy bit tight. I would take the hubs off and check that you can spin them hubs easily in both directions, re-set the bearing tension to 0.0 lbs torque with no noticeable slack and you should be good unless there is something else binding somewhere.

Those are chassis codes? I thought they were Maximum speed in Reverse (50...mph?) and the Width of the Driving circle ( 21 miles)!!

Alrighty then! Thank you gentlemen... I'll give that a whirl ( literally ?) when I have a few minutes and no rain later this week!

Yea...it takes seat time just like lacing a wheel. The more you do it the better you get if you work at it. Keep an eye on the weld pattern and listen to the sound of the welding while your at it. It should sound like bacon frying on the stove and your bead shouldn't have any sharp edges... a clean surface is of primary importance! After that just lay a bead wherever you see a gap! Except maybe at the door line..... maybe.

Ahh...interesting! I'll have to find a way to lift it more than the measly 20" that I can get out of my jacks. My pipe hits the ground before I can get a turn on it... time for a high lift jack!!

Ummm... that must be problem with my phone.... could a moderator be so kind as to delete the other identical posts. I apologize on behalf of Samsung and Android.