enkrypt3d

right but how does the axle provide power while it rotates? any pics of these gears? I'm trying to visualize it ... thx and great build! now go get some knobby ass tires! lol < to the OP

dumb question but how does the front solid axle connect to the hubs to allow for steering w/o having to use CV axles?

Well the shop found that every seal is leaking and needs to be replaced...... upper oil pan gasket, lower oil pan gaskets, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, new timing belt & water pump... (engine compression tested and does not hold pressure)...... he sent me pics and it wasn't pretty even though the oil isn't dripping, the entire engine is soaked....

why does this save gas? is it bc the front axles are always spinning and is this only for the R50's?

hahaha

yea I'm replacing every rubber component in the front end and the front axles...... if this doesn't make the truck silent I'll be

Yea I went to talk to the dealer about it and the tech said that it'd be about an extra hour or so .... expecting to pay around $1k with all the bushings, axles toe links and center links...... if this doesn't fix all the noises and sh!t I'll be really surprised and not happy! ha at least the dealership is willing to give me a loaner car! waiting for the axles and steering components to come in.......

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=666051&p=rock I ordered these - has anyone had any experience with them? And are they ok? For $50 each u cant go wrong really......

If I'm replacing all the rubber bushings in the front end, would there be any combined labor savings by swapping out new front axles? I found that I might as well replace the axles instead of the CV boots as its the same amount of labor...... hopefully my question makes sense.... thanks guys! The dealer quoted me around $600 to replace UCA & LCA bushings, Strut Rod Bushings & all ball joints so I kind of figured it'd be pretty easy to just swap out the axles while they're in there right? Thx

post some pics!

I'm in los angeles.

Yea my strut rod bearing just gave out its clunking on every turn....waiting for the new bushing kits to arrive and hoping the labor costs to have all the bushings in the front end wont cost me an arm and a leg though.

Called the tire shop back and it still red flags it whisky tango foxtrot over??? I guess I'll have to go with OEM sizes....... *facepalm

har har - 90% of the images are missing on the first page but I guess you didn't notice......

I have the OEM chromies......

would 30X9.5R15LT be a good size for my OEM rims? Cant really afford changing rims as much as I'd like to.....

Whoops forgot to get new CV boots....might as well right?

Yea I gotta replace all my bushings first $$$$$$$$ labor....... ugh wish i had my own shop.....

I guess I'll have to go with 235/75/15's then... will it look silly with tires that skinny with such an agressive tread design? haha thx

Hmm interesting - so how does this happen exactly? Just wear & tear? or a design flaw.......?

nevermind I believe I need 2 uppers and 2 lowers....thx! Went ahead and ordered a new center link anyways since I'm replacing all the toe links as well...

Dont I need 2 of each ball joints? You have 2 for the K9022 but only one for the K9347?

Anyways I'm trying to understand exactly what parts are being swapped out b/c it all looks the same to me.

So do you guys think that fitting those 31's on the OEM Chrome rims wont' be an issue? 15x6 seem realllly narrow..

Center link looks fine and steering is great after replacing idler arm.