enkrypt3d

So got the new diff gear in and after a few shudders it seems pretty smooth! And got the new brake calipers and new brake lines for the front on and the brakes feel solid and new but the ABS / BRAKE light is still on?? They tried resetting the ECU but the light wont go off...... before the calipers were replaced, I'd top off the master cylinder and the lights would go out - now that the leaks are fixed why wont the lights go out?

Yea it definitely feels a lot different when its in 4H and 4L works too like a granny gear... when in 4H and doing a U turn w/ the steering wheel at full lock, it does the crab walk but this isn't the same feeling I feel when its in 2H and you get the wobble which feels like the LSD is locked up. I'm hoping the new fluid will help! The shop did repack all the hubs and bearings with new grease when the new rotors & drums went on so I'm hoping those will be good... I think all issues point to the LSD and hoping once it gets new fluid in it, I'll be fine... I should probably change the fluid in the front diff and xfer case but not sure which fluid to use in the transfer case?

I called the dealer to find out how much new hubs are and they said $380 each!!

lol I wish I had my own shop I'd love to do this myself...

if it was stuck in 4H would the light be on? It seems to be fine sometimes and when I'm turning and gunning it i hear the front tires chirping as if they are getting power.... very odd. When I had my brakes done the shop guys said the hubs & bearings looked fine.. but not sure if i trust their opinion....

Yea the parts are cheap but the labor isn't! I need a good shop in SoCal....

Not sure how I missed this message - when making tight turns going forward and it feels like its crab walking as if the front is locked... I bought some of this for the LSD (And I did confirm that it is an LSD by having someone run my vin thru FAST) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007QGT34/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So its possible that the front diff and transfer case needs the fluid changed as well... And yes while reversing the shuddering has been happening but only when turning. As soon as I turn the wheel is turned... I'm hoping that the auto hubs aren't locked up even when its in 2H. I might buy a few more quarts for the front diff and xfer case - that should be ok with the LSD additives in it right? The ball joints aren't a huge issue more of an annoyance + I need to get the timing belt done so i'm tackling one item at a time....... ugh i've already put in more than what i paid for this truck! eeeeekkkk sigh

Can anyone decode my vin? I want to be 100% sure I have an LSD before I put this fluid in it... PM me for those that have FAST thanks!

Derp yea I meant quart not pint - it must be beer thirty! lol thx

Um so the 3 pints I bought of this wont be enough? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007QGT34/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear H190A - 3.1 pints (1.47 liters) C200 - 2.75 pints (1.3 liters) H223B - 5.85 pints (2.77 liters) Which diff do I have on my 95 XE? I'm pretty sure its LSD... so C200?

The motor with oil.... pepboys put in 6 quarts - I had them remove 2 quarts and it still reads on the "H" mark on the dip stick....

I called 2 different Nissan dealerships and one told me 5 quarts, one told me 4 1/8th quarts and the service manual says 3 1/8th quarts...... which is it for my 1995??

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ Service manuals for 95 pathfinder - go up a few directories to find your specific model!

So I'm guessing it would be bad if a shop put 6 quarts of oil in my 95 motor huh...........

How much do I need for my 95? 3 quarts?

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Synthetic-Automotive/dp/B0007QGT34/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Would I need 3 quarts of this for my LSD? Thx

It seems like the diff is locked - any idea on how to get it unlocked? And should I use the same oil in the front diff like the rear? Or no? Thx

I'm pretty sure I have an LSD - I did a burn out in a gravel parking lot at full lock and left 2 tire marks in the gravel so its LSD - even though there's no yellow sticker. I'll have the fluid changed out next time its in the shop which will be soon to replace the front calipers that are leaking, distributor cap & rotor. I'm hoping changing the fluid in the rear diff will get rid of the weird vibrations when reversing... but it only happens when turning which leads me to believe its the diff. To inspect the ball joints in the front, whats required? How much stuff do you have to remove? And to lube the sway bars, where did you apply the grease? on the drop links? That seems like where my clunking is coming from....

So I just replaced the rotors, pads, drums, shoes, springs, shocks & sway bar bushings and one thing that I thought was fixed with new brakes all around but its not - When I'm backing up and turning (without applying the brakes) there's this shuddering / dragging sound coming from the rear of the truck. I thought for sure that it was the old rear brakes but these are brand new..... Also when I go over bumps with the new shocks there's this squeaking noise in the front end - I'm guessing something needs to be lubed? Spring mounts or something? Thanks!

thanks - pls see my latest issues......

thanks guys - one thing that I thought was fixed with new brakes all around but its not - When I'm backing up and turning (without applying the brakes) there's this shuddering / dragging sound coming from the rear of the truck. I thought for sure that it was the old rear brakes but these are brand new..... Also when I go over bumps with the new shocks there's this squeaking noise in the front end - I'm guessing something needs to be lubed? Spring mounts or something? Thanks guys for answering all my questions!

I noticed there's a crap ton of leaves just behind hood - the little holes with the hood open just big enough to put your finger in, I can feel that there's at least 2" of crap in there... is there a way to get to that stuff? I guess I'd have to remove a body panel to get to it............ I haven't had to use the heater but once but I'm sure there's crap near the heater core too....

Now I'm hearing a clunking sound once the new sway bar bushings have been installed. I tried tightening the bolts but I think theres still some play in the sway bar end links... maybe the washers aren't in the right spot? Also if I'm going to replace the pitman arm, should I go ahead and replace the center link and toe links as well? And I noticed there's a bracket where you'd mount a shock absorber on the center link but I have no idea where else it would mount? I noticed too that there's no rock shield....

So I got all the parts installed and come to find out I need new calipers since the passengerside caliper is leaking....... uhg i was hoping to have this resolved in one visit! I also need a new pitman arm - should I go with Moog or any brand in particular? I pulled out the old spark plugs and they looked like they were coated in rust! haha so this leads me to believe that the timing belt has never been changed.... so new shocks, new rotors, pads, drums, shoes, idler arm, spark plugs and sway bar bushings...man what a difference! I just have to find the calipers, pitman arm... any suggestions? OEM? Thanks!