enkrypt3d

Can you link us to the front LSD that you got from calmini? Its not on their site.... Also can you list all the bushings that you replaced? I'm working on replacing my torsion bars, ball joints and control arm bushings to make the ride smoother and quieter.... great rig! looks badass

well not to much... the chattering is still there......... sigh

Its the button to the right of the steering wheel... I should have snapped this pic after the truck got detailed ha

what about the button just to the right of the steering wheel thats covered in rubber with no label?

Can someone post a picture of their battery area? I know the blue things are the relays and they should be mounted to the inside of the engine bay on passenger side fender...... but that harness that is wired, anyone have something to compare it to? I tried googling but that didn't help much thx!

I don't think there's been a fire as there's no evidence of it - maybe the ground wires are shredded but when I got the truck, it had a very large amp (5K watts) and 2 15" subs in the back that did not come with the truck.... I had a stereo shop remove most of the cables which was connected to the + side of the battery but I dont get what is still connected to the + side of the battery? And for the tach resistor is that the thing on the bottom right of the distributor cap?? It would be nice to know what the engine is doing as var as revs go ......

So my tach doesn't work and I've read that the tach resistor is connected to the distributor cap - is that the small black thing that's connected just to the right of the distributor cap? I tried pulling on it to see if its easily removed but it doesn't appear to be and its hard wired into the wiring harness .... The nissan dealership couldn't identify the part but the part number is 24336-c9900 - http://www.courtesyparts.com/resistor-a-p-300014.html I can not seem to find a part that looks like this in the engine bay or is this the one behind the instrument cluster? Ok so now for a slightly different topic - what in the heck is going on with the positive side of my battery!? It was like this when I bought it .... there are a few of the blue relays laying near the battery and wires spliced everywhere... I have no idea what is going on here and any help would be greatly appreciated! I have a closeup shot of it if needed... Thx!

so if I got one out of a junk yard im sure it'd most likely be toast requiring rebuild right?

np - the trick is to #1 find one #2, find one thats not toast and #3 thats the right model... from what i get I dont want the VLSD we want the CLSD?

uh ............ ok? So what will fit?? Its obviously something that would be helpful no?

the good news is that the chattering has almost gone away - do the clutches get submerged in fluid or are they dry inside the LSD assembly? Maybe it took a while for the fluid to get in there?

What models of Xterras & Frontiers work for the rear end? And what does 3rd member mean?

I have a similar experience... even with upgrading the shocks and sway bar bushings it just seems as if the weak points have been shifted somewhere else. Its like chasing your tail at this point with an 18 year old truck. We should make a list of components that need to be replaced (let me take a crack at this): Upper and lower ball joints (front) Tie Rod Ends & Bushings Control arm bushings? (worth replacing?) Frame Bushings (not sure what these are called - right in front of the front wheels where the frame meets the body? Mine are toast.) What else?

*trying my best not to make any jokes about the "third member" lol*

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/h233b-limited-slip-differential-p-297.html should i just pull the trigger on this and have someone put it in? Is it just remove the old one and put in the new one right?

will the Z31 300ZX R200 limited slip rear end fit on my 95 front diff?

Yea - so at least i know whats up with the brakes........ how much $ are we talking about to rebuild the rear end?? Probably not cheap i can imagine.

What clutches? You mean in the brake booster? And I don't think putting DOT 4 with DOT 3 in it will cause any damage. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point that's all. Its all I had left over from doing the brakes on my NSX. Not sure why there's this aversion to DOT 4? The guys at the shop had never seen blue brake fluid apparently and were dumbfounded when they saw it in the reservoir.... derp! The brake performance really couldn't be any better really so I just think its a matter of replacing the MC (and JUST the MC) and finally being done with it.

Ok found the issue its the friggen master cylinder now! it wasn't leaking before.... now that there's new components and real pressure in the system its slowly leaking out where the master cylinder meets the brake booster............ this is so frustrating i've nearly spent the same amount of $ on service that I paid for the truck! Anyways finally back on topic for the rear diff - since I have the new fluid in, the problem has gotten worse for some strange reason... and it only seems to happen when the diff is cold... if it warms up first then it seems fairly smooth (and im sure ppl look at me like im nuts driving circles around backwards in the parking lot) hahah So do I need to have the gears inspected and or rebuilt? its one thing after another! this truck is becoming a lemon as much as i love it........

ugh now i see that there is a puddle under the right front ... I dont see any leaks from the master cylinder - I think its the new lines or one of the connection points on the new brake lines........ back to the shop.... grrrrrr! tired of going back and fourth on this. I'm going to hand them the FSM page: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/br.pdf And make them bleed the system properly including the R-ABS actuator...

Yes the ABS and BRAKE lights are on... brakes feel great and have just been overhauled - new brake fluid (Although it seems to like DOT 4 over DOT 3 for some reason) rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, drums, shoes, springs, clips, do dads, gizmoz and thingamagiggers for good measure... oh and the rear end feels great with new fluid we can move this discussion to the brake light thread if you guys want since this isn't related? When the caliper was leaking, the light would come on and I'd add some more DOT 4 fluid and it'd go away for a few days until I ran out of my blue DOT 4... I really don't think having a working ABS system is really that beneficial since its a truck and the new brakes work great. And I'm very familiar with how squishy the brakes feel when the fluid is low... I *nearly* crashed thru the gate in my parking garage the first time I discovered the leak... brake pedal went to the floor and thankfully stopped me at the last second. I'm glad to have it fixed but these lights are just an annoyance at this point. btw there are no leaks under the master cylinder from what I can see.

Well as I said before before I fixed the leak (which is fixed now) i'd just keep adding fluid to top it off and the lights would go off... but the fluid is full and lights are still on... All I see is a plastic screen and the fluid level is about 10-12mm above that.... Also the cap for the reservoir is loose and does not screw onto the MC even if I push down hard and twist nada.

Hmm interesting - well ABS on the front end doesn't even seem that useful to me even on the highway as I have greater stopping power with slotted rotors now and the brakes feel great. So I'm honestly thinking of just keeping an eye on the fluid levels and unplugging the sensor cable on the master cylinder ..... are there any draw backs to doing this other than not having ABS?

I have the same issue even with a full brake over haul and I'm thinking of just unplugging the wire under the brake fluid reservoir..... lol

It seems so - the brakes feel amazing compared to what they were before... very stiff brake pedal... maybe ill just unplug the sensor and forget about it? lol http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34522-abs-and-brake-light/ been reading this thread.... ABS doesn't seem all too useful.