enkrypt3d

uh ............ ok? So what will fit?? Its obviously something that would be helpful no?

the good news is that the chattering has almost gone away - do the clutches get submerged in fluid or are they dry inside the LSD assembly? Maybe it took a while for the fluid to get in there?

What models of Xterras & Frontiers work for the rear end? And what does 3rd member mean?

I have a similar experience... even with upgrading the shocks and sway bar bushings it just seems as if the weak points have been shifted somewhere else. Its like chasing your tail at this point with an 18 year old truck. We should make a list of components that need to be replaced (let me take a crack at this): Upper and lower ball joints (front) Tie Rod Ends & Bushings Control arm bushings? (worth replacing?) Frame Bushings (not sure what these are called - right in front of the front wheels where the frame meets the body? Mine are toast.) What else?

*trying my best not to make any jokes about the "third member" lol*

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/h233b-limited-slip-differential-p-297.html should i just pull the trigger on this and have someone put it in? Is it just remove the old one and put in the new one right?

will the Z31 300ZX R200 limited slip rear end fit on my 95 front diff?

Yea - so at least i know whats up with the brakes........ how much $ are we talking about to rebuild the rear end?? Probably not cheap i can imagine.

What clutches? You mean in the brake booster? And I don't think putting DOT 4 with DOT 3 in it will cause any damage. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point that's all. Its all I had left over from doing the brakes on my NSX. Not sure why there's this aversion to DOT 4? The guys at the shop had never seen blue brake fluid apparently and were dumbfounded when they saw it in the reservoir.... derp! The brake performance really couldn't be any better really so I just think its a matter of replacing the MC (and JUST the MC) and finally being done with it.

Ok found the issue its the friggen master cylinder now! it wasn't leaking before.... now that there's new components and real pressure in the system its slowly leaking out where the master cylinder meets the brake booster............ this is so frustrating i've nearly spent the same amount of $ on service that I paid for the truck! Anyways finally back on topic for the rear diff - since I have the new fluid in, the problem has gotten worse for some strange reason... and it only seems to happen when the diff is cold... if it warms up first then it seems fairly smooth (and im sure ppl look at me like im nuts driving circles around backwards in the parking lot) hahah So do I need to have the gears inspected and or rebuilt? its one thing after another! this truck is becoming a lemon as much as i love it........

ugh now i see that there is a puddle under the right front ... I dont see any leaks from the master cylinder - I think its the new lines or one of the connection points on the new brake lines........ back to the shop.... grrrrrr! tired of going back and fourth on this. I'm going to hand them the FSM page: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/br.pdf And make them bleed the system properly including the R-ABS actuator...

Yes the ABS and BRAKE lights are on... brakes feel great and have just been overhauled - new brake fluid (Although it seems to like DOT 4 over DOT 3 for some reason) rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, drums, shoes, springs, clips, do dads, gizmoz and thingamagiggers for good measure... oh and the rear end feels great with new fluid we can move this discussion to the brake light thread if you guys want since this isn't related? When the caliper was leaking, the light would come on and I'd add some more DOT 4 fluid and it'd go away for a few days until I ran out of my blue DOT 4... I really don't think having a working ABS system is really that beneficial since its a truck and the new brakes work great. And I'm very familiar with how squishy the brakes feel when the fluid is low... I *nearly* crashed thru the gate in my parking garage the first time I discovered the leak... brake pedal went to the floor and thankfully stopped me at the last second. I'm glad to have it fixed but these lights are just an annoyance at this point. btw there are no leaks under the master cylinder from what I can see.

Well as I said before before I fixed the leak (which is fixed now) i'd just keep adding fluid to top it off and the lights would go off... but the fluid is full and lights are still on... All I see is a plastic screen and the fluid level is about 10-12mm above that.... Also the cap for the reservoir is loose and does not screw onto the MC even if I push down hard and twist nada.

Hmm interesting - well ABS on the front end doesn't even seem that useful to me even on the highway as I have greater stopping power with slotted rotors now and the brakes feel great. So I'm honestly thinking of just keeping an eye on the fluid levels and unplugging the sensor cable on the master cylinder ..... are there any draw backs to doing this other than not having ABS?

I have the same issue even with a full brake over haul and I'm thinking of just unplugging the wire under the brake fluid reservoir..... lol

It seems so - the brakes feel amazing compared to what they were before... very stiff brake pedal... maybe ill just unplug the sensor and forget about it? lol http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34522-abs-and-brake-light/ been reading this thread.... ABS doesn't seem all too useful.

So got the new diff gear in and after a few shudders it seems pretty smooth! And got the new brake calipers and new brake lines for the front on and the brakes feel solid and new but the ABS / BRAKE light is still on?? They tried resetting the ECU but the light wont go off...... before the calipers were replaced, I'd top off the master cylinder and the lights would go out - now that the leaks are fixed why wont the lights go out?

Yea it definitely feels a lot different when its in 4H and 4L works too like a granny gear... when in 4H and doing a U turn w/ the steering wheel at full lock, it does the crab walk but this isn't the same feeling I feel when its in 2H and you get the wobble which feels like the LSD is locked up. I'm hoping the new fluid will help! The shop did repack all the hubs and bearings with new grease when the new rotors & drums went on so I'm hoping those will be good... I think all issues point to the LSD and hoping once it gets new fluid in it, I'll be fine... I should probably change the fluid in the front diff and xfer case but not sure which fluid to use in the transfer case?

I called the dealer to find out how much new hubs are and they said $380 each!!

lol I wish I had my own shop I'd love to do this myself...

if it was stuck in 4H would the light be on? It seems to be fine sometimes and when I'm turning and gunning it i hear the front tires chirping as if they are getting power.... very odd. When I had my brakes done the shop guys said the hubs & bearings looked fine.. but not sure if i trust their opinion....

Yea the parts are cheap but the labor isn't! I need a good shop in SoCal....

Not sure how I missed this message - when making tight turns going forward and it feels like its crab walking as if the front is locked... I bought some of this for the LSD (And I did confirm that it is an LSD by having someone run my vin thru FAST) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007QGT34/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So its possible that the front diff and transfer case needs the fluid changed as well... And yes while reversing the shuddering has been happening but only when turning. As soon as I turn the wheel is turned... I'm hoping that the auto hubs aren't locked up even when its in 2H. I might buy a few more quarts for the front diff and xfer case - that should be ok with the LSD additives in it right? The ball joints aren't a huge issue more of an annoyance + I need to get the timing belt done so i'm tackling one item at a time....... ugh i've already put in more than what i paid for this truck! eeeeekkkk sigh

Can anyone decode my vin? I want to be 100% sure I have an LSD before I put this fluid in it... PM me for those that have FAST thanks!

Derp yea I meant quart not pint - it must be beer thirty! lol thx