01Pathmaker

I've been researching this on and off for a while myself, as I think the WJ would look far better. Several guys have successfully (sort of) mounted XJ bumpers by reworking the brackets (Exbrit & cdns4 are 2 that have done fairly extensive writeups, and I know there are several others). Try a search for "XJ bumper". Oh, and welcome once again.

RainGoat, first off, welcome! Sounds like you've got a pretty solid plan. In my 01, I've been running AC medium-duty springs all the way around, they initially gave me almost an inch over stock (replaced at 50k-ish so stock springs weren't too badly sagged), after a few thousand miles they settled to just over a half inch over stock. I've got 170k on the truck now (so roughly 120k on the springs) and they're still holding strong. The initial ride was a bit on the stiff side, but softened a little over time, still has a firm ride. I've been very happy with the load capacity as well. The entire time I've been running KYB GR-2's front & rear (replaced them once after about 70k), and they've been good as well. There's no physical difference between any of the aftermarket struts, so no need to run different backspace wheels. The need for additional backspace arises once you are lifted and want to run larger tires. Due to the position of the lower coil bucket on the strut, you will find a taller/wider tire will not clear that point with stock backspace. I run 265/70/16's on factory SE wheels and it's VERY close. I plan to add another inch or 2, using spacers from SFC, then move up to 265/75/16's on my stock wheels, but I'll be adding 1" wheel spacers to gain the needed strut clearance. At that time, I'll be changing the struts again (most likely with gr-2's again) and shocks (this time I'm going to try a set of OME). Hopefully this info gives you some food for thought.

Finally, after 16 years of ownership, tinted the front windows! Used high quality precut tint from Filmvantage (ebay seller) and it worked out great! It's been over 20 years since I applied tint, made a slight rookie mistake on the passenger side, it has a hardly noticeable, small crease, but oh well, still looks great. I have no clue why I waited so long, but glad I didn't pay the $100 plus tax to have the local shop do it.

Any binding of the cv's? I'm thinking of adding Steve's 2" kit to my existing MD springs which already gave me a little over 1/2", so I'd be about 2.5" over stock, but want to avoid binding the axles.

Nice find! Good luck with the resurrection!

Like the look of the new lights! Not a fan of chrome, or most badging in general. I've been thinking about doing the rim of my tails either black or body color, and debadging all but the burgers. Great to hear your results with the RSB delete, probably do that soon as well. Can't wait for pics of Hollister!

Look it up on rockauto.com, I'd check the p/n for 00-04 model years.

Filled the gas tank again, this time after only 250 miles. At least half of that was either heavy towing or on the beach though, so I guess it's justified. Lol

Since this is not your dd, which tire would better suit your typical wheeling terrain? The falken at3w is an aggressive at, which based upon the many reviews and magazine tests, they perform quite well in all conditions with the exception of deep, gooey mud. They're also made with a rubber compound that should balance traction with good longevity (mileage). So for a truck that's more or less, a dedicated trail rig, if you typically find yourself on dirt/gravel roads, sand, silt or even rocks, but rarely gooey mud, I'd go with them. The kenda's are a low budget "entry level" tire. They're made with a softer compound, so will probably offer decent traction in most situations, but will likely wear and chunk easier. I've also heard that they're sidewalls are fairly easy to puncture, so I'd stay away if you play in the rocks. Overall, if I had to choose between those 2 tires, unless mud was my main playground, I'd go with the falken. I'm actually going to be due for tires before winter and I've been giving the falken a good, hard look. I'll most likely either go with those or get another set of general grabber at 2's, as they've been great for me in all my typical conditions. That's my $0.02...

If it doesn't work out with Xplor, I've got one from a 96, just pay the shipping and it's yours! I really need to clean up the garage! Lol

Rockauto.com has a nice kit that includes drums, shoes, cylinders and spring kit, but if your wheel cylinders are good and drums aren't trashed, just get shoes and spring/hardware kit and have your drums cut for a few bucks each, at a local shop.

Have you checked the steering rack bushings?

Sounds like a solid plan! Enjoy the ride!

My contribution based upon the last 2 comments by Nova and saturn: I didn't go to college, I went to work, spent a majority of my free time wrenching on the rides that I had at the time, whatever time that was left I hung out with friends, and I don't have MANY regrets. I believe that you are the only one who can answer your question, take a little time and see where your priorities lie. Do you want more time to hang out? Do you have a passion for 'wheeling (typically that goes hand in hand with wrenching)? Can you keep your offroad adventures tame enough to not tear up a nicer and reliable dd, or do you like to take the tougher trails, or the trail less traveled? Finally, can your budget support both a dedicated wheeler and a nice dd? Those answers will point you in the right direction. Whatever you choose, enjoy the ride!

Yet another great idea you've come up with! Nice work!

Classic death wobble. The bushings on your rear track arms (also called control arms) are toast, usually it's easiest to replace all 4 with new as it can be a real bear to just change the bushings. These are 4 bars that run front-to-back, from the rear subfamily to the rear axle (2 short uppers, 2 long lowers). These can often be found as a fairly inexpensive set on ebay. Depending on the amount of rust/corrosion, they can be either a fairly simple swap, or a very time consuming, labor intensive chore. You'll also need all new hardware to go with them, as more often than not, the bolts like to become one with the sleeves, making removal impossible without cutting them. If you use the search function, search "R50 death wobble" you'll find plenty of info, and a good write-up or 2.

If you haven't already, clean all your grounds, especially the major ground points (battery to body, battery to "frame", alternator, engine, etc). I've seen some pretty wonky stuff go away after properly cleaning them up (disconnect, clean terminal ends, check terminal to wire connection for oxidation/corrosion and repair/replace anything looking questionable, clean grounding surface to bare metal, clean hardware, reconnect then seal after tightened), even if they "look good". This is something that is far too often, overlooked, but extremely vital to things working correctly.

BINGO! Lol

Those are your upper coil buckets (others have referred to them as top hats). IIRC, both have the same markings, just get positioned differently depending on which side they're mounted on. There is also a corresponding notch that denotes coil positioning. Unfortunately, without either laying eyes on mine, or looking it up in the FSM, I don't recall the exact position the marks should be in. If you have downloaded a copy of the FSM, take a look there, otherwise (if nobody else chimes in) I'll look into it for you. The FSM is a very resourceful tool to have.

Thanks rc, food for thought. I wouldn't be adding the additional 3 in the lower area and I don't climb any hills on the regular, just have to see if the temp climbs on the beach.

I would consider the road noise moderate. They're not what I consider loud, but they are quite a bit louder than typical AT's, but not obnoxious. I've had super swamped tsl's, up to 44" and thornbirds up to 35", those are loud. Lol. I had no issues with airing down, which since they are a full bead to bead remold, shouldn't be a problem. It's their older "retreads" that you'll have issues with from airing down, in fact it states in the warranty that airing down retreads voids the warranty.

Wow, don't everyone talk at once! Lol. Well, as it turns out, we're probably going to end up with a brand new 2017 Rogue SV for roughly the same payment (just a longer term) as the low mileage 2012 R51 we were looking at.

Good luck, hope that solves your issue. Yeah, start a build thread either in this section or the rides section. Look forward to seeing and hearing your progress.

I thoroughly agree, it's most likely a heat shield loose, they're notorious for that. Check the shields above the cats, they usually start first, you cure one and another starts soon after...

Or you could go the highly addictive route and lift via strut spacers (as mentioned above, from Steve "the man" @ sfcreations) or new coils, or both, or SFD, or all of it! Lol, yeah, it becomes an incurable disease...