stabworthy

you are referring to the seal on the rear engine sealing crankshaft like this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=122768&cc=1211960 the seal inside front trans, is it the "input shaft seal" on rock auto or "manual shaft seal" or don’t worry about unless it going to be a problem.

I wish I had a body lift, but that give me a idea , a temporarily body lift unbolt the body and lift the front , and drop the rear of the trans. I just cant get them with the engine and firewall spacing. It seem easier to just pull the motor and trans out.

im dropping my m/t to get to my clutch and flywheel for replacement, i count 9 bolts from the diagram on fsm including the two starter bolts. what is the best way to get to the four on top, is it a matter of laying on top of the engine to get to them?

fyi Google "frame rot",

JUST KIDDING !!!!!! under the driver alil before the upward of the rear axle it may be photo worthy.lol i just see it in the small holes of the frame, . it not a "problem". its one of those things, it just going to worst. those are the small holes on bottom, i put my pink in the bigger holes on the side and feel around, it feels like the coating on sides are good , maybe the bottom just damaged

i had the same thought , it may add some buoyancy, but i figured my luck it would somehow do some stupid and impossible like build pressure and pop a weaken weld. i wanted to find a way to get a chimney brush or better yet run a dent cleaner hose thru there. then macgyver spraying system for rust eater and undercoat .

Fortunately I live in a salt and winter free area. The only I have fix is some floorboard rot. Yet I have notice rust flake-chucks inside my frame rails. It bothers me. What can I do besides, open a window \in the frame rails? Once its out , best way to water forge proof it? Im ok with unbolting , bot so much cutting.

so a skid plate that never made it into the world. i wonder where the other end would be attached? hoping in the front on protect everything in a rock's reach, like the oil sump . it looks like i going finish what Nissan started. has anyone use this point to build their undercarriage protecttion? pic?

With recently being “laid off”, I have had time to lay under my truck to escape the Texas heat and daydream of ways mess up the garage. Today I was semi-mocking up a underneath rock slider thingy after last time out, a rouge rock played see-saw down there. rude awaking , chucked my t-case,and drive-shaft bells , Dented my last cross-member , muffler and fuel tank “guard”. While down there,I saw these four small holes >>> not the big "Lightening" holes, the small ones toward the t case. it is the member the t-bars are and they are tapped with one of those square “nuts” welded in the cavity, looking oe. What is it for ??? { side question, why nissan like lightening holes??????}

i just replaced everything in the steering and ball joints. everything bought thru amazon (prime and free shipping is a hard thing to pass up ) . I ordered “ASP” idler arm , center link , upper and lower ball joints ….$110.84 to my door. I was worry about the quality but whatever. I never put my lowers (didnt have a impact socket big enough for the big nut on bottom) and just threw them in my bag. A week later, I was at a pull a part , scavenging for some random goodies when I saw a wd21 that someone pull the cv axles out of,so the knuckles was on the ground . The joints looked brand new , the ball was still a lil tight. I started comparing the joints,with the one I had in my bag. They are not the best but I was impressed. The only thing was the idle arm shaft is tiny, but Im just using it while rebuild and mod my old unit. ( alil, where can I find brass bushings for that???) zerks are included.

got it! thanks guys , here a crutchfield link that also helped.http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Support/KnowledgeBase.aspx?ifs=1995%20Nissan%20Pathfinder

I’m replacing all the audio, i want to use the factory wiring. Have the fsm but it does not show once it goes the connector what happens to it , there is not in and out , I have no idea what turns into what. I basically what to bypass the amps .(mine are gone)could I get a pin out , a layout , a sketch ,” white wire to red w/ white stripe” or something . I have figured out what wires go from the amp to the four speakers. side note : am I the only one who think it is dumb, that the front speakers are ran to the rear to the amp then back ?

Before I replaced almost every piece in the steering system , I would hit 55 mph (I think, speedo no worky), everything waddled. I could feel/see it in the wheel. I knew it was time to replace ball joints and/or ends, and I didnt want to hunt down the problem. So , I replaced everything, now, the steering is great , no shakes , no death wobble, no marshmallow steering, but , my rear ….hulas at highway speeds. So that says to me, time for new panhard and trailing bushings. I want to go poly but cant find them. I found moog trailing bushings but not sure they are poly and cant find panhards at all. I want to get this baby rolling , it has a date in northwest texas in october..

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29793-lsd-mod-take-2-and-take-3/

why do you do the abs last??

... i knew this , i feel dumb i replaced the fluid a while back ,when i rebuilt the whole system. it weird it went to the floor, maybe it jealous . i will freshen it up since i have the big bottle open. and what is the official npora order, hear hundred things on interwebs.

bred my brakes with dot4, they feel better than they ever did. now, my abs light is on , which is weird cuz i didn't i had abs, until i saw the abs unit bolted to the frame rail. also my check engine came on (which isnt uncommon), and my clutch went to the floor(didn't touch my clutch system, just shine my light at it). did i just pour a poltergeist in my reservoir?

no , this is what i wanted , a discussion. i forgot to mention , my truck sees more +100 temps than - 30 temps .

bump i saw youtube video showing the difference in stock and modded lsd, im going to hunt down the vid and see what i can find.

one: What wires are between my center console and my gear stick, under the carpet and right under the sheet metal ?? i need to know because i'm about zip two screws to secure a cup-holder. two: Where is the return side(engine side) of the harness that to the speed sensor ? pin out would be nice three: best fluid(in your opinion) for engine, power steering,clutch, brakes, manual trans , tcase,and diffs (rear lsd) ? not what will work, the best brands and grades , the stuff that makes you stoked to replenish your fluids. i am weird, i know

I go out to lago vista a lot , there is an abandoned housing development, that is a web of rocky back roads I offroad in driftwood at times but i seen to get in trouble down there. i just thought there was a group of people or another lone wolf i could befriended and gain acceptation with beer.

are those gussets?????

Diy is the usually path i take, but something of this scope is a little out of my league. Now i take it this will be more intensive then like a obd2 system to reflash, could there even be a handheld to reflash , or am i jumping the gun?

bung

Not to dog on the diy spirit, but i remember seeing a place that does "ecu tuning". It was a "ship your ecu in and we will tune it for this price or we send you a tuned ecu for this price", thingy. You know, for the smaller brained people. And...related question. Wide bands; I searched it on the forum and nothing fed my appetite. I want to install a wide band but since i know less than what i what to know, i am unsure i want go through the trouble now or down the road. Does the 'puter see the wide band as a normal o2 senor? If not, do/could i run a a narrow and a wide o2? One for the ecu and one for tinkering? Will the wide band fit in my bung?