stabworthy

THANKS !!! cant wait to get everything back together freash and new.

ok , trans , clutch , flywheel out. i see the trans gasket thing , not see how it would come off. i see the four bolts to the plate on the block. how do i pull the rear seal ? do i remove that plate? do i need to drain the motor oil? HELP!!!

Crazy idea (wouldn't do it, just a what if thing) what's wrong with filling the rails with expanding foam? Floats, waterproof , adds a debatable strength, sound damping

Looks like I'm going to be picking up some cans, and blast the rails and everywhere under there.

Yea, since i posted this, i drilled holes in my brother’s mx5's rocker panel. You could hear the water. Enlarging holes and flushing it out, is on the list , but no rush cuz its sitting in the driveway with the trans hanging out and timing belt dying. What do "yous guys" suggest to apply a good coating to the inside? im glad you liked my joke. being in south(ish) Texas, road salt is a rare thing and the only other time it has encountered salt is the beach , twice in 7 years. i see more body rot then frame body. i had a friend come down from Minnesota in his 2003 f 250 super duty , frame rails DESTORYED , have no clue how he got it down here.

correct me if i am wrong but i think centerforce dual friction clutch was/is a nismo upgrade.

its off, just destroyed , the spline was rusted and twisted inside. the bar looks good, surgeon with a cut out wheel and air chisel pm'ed sir

torsion bar rear anchor arm is seized to my torsion bar, does anyone have a spare willing to past with or know where i can get one besides a JY (last thing i want to do fight that bear)

that was the show in question that is what i want to hear. its not like, im going back out of the drive way and do a fat burnout , it just that , after a year of being down, and the clutch slipping the whole time i have owned it, im going be excited. i dont know if i can keep my foot out of it

ok, i watch these shows , they build the fresh engine , fresh trans , they throw it in a car , then do a fat burnout. What break in cycle are they using ? I know about the magic of tv but I know that clutch is not seeing 500 miles of stop and go. I know there aren’t a stage 5 clutch. SO, what is the “proper heat cycle”? What do I do? What I looking for? How do you break in a clutch in the race car/ non street legal car?

yea it took a mile of extensions, swivel, 6 point 14mm socket and a pipe to break the last one free.

trust me , this is not a something i want to do for a looong while. new full clutch kit , flywheel , bolts, gaskets and seals are going in. 700 miles of break in time of stop and go driving before any hooniganing

you are referring to the seal on the rear engine sealing crankshaft like this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=122768&cc=1211960 the seal inside front trans, is it the "input shaft seal" on rock auto or "manual shaft seal" or don’t worry about unless it going to be a problem.

I wish I had a body lift, but that give me a idea , a temporarily body lift unbolt the body and lift the front , and drop the rear of the trans. I just cant get them with the engine and firewall spacing. It seem easier to just pull the motor and trans out.

im dropping my m/t to get to my clutch and flywheel for replacement, i count 9 bolts from the diagram on fsm including the two starter bolts. what is the best way to get to the four on top, is it a matter of laying on top of the engine to get to them?

fyi Google "frame rot",

JUST KIDDING !!!!!! under the driver alil before the upward of the rear axle it may be photo worthy.lol i just see it in the small holes of the frame, . it not a "problem". its one of those things, it just going to worst. those are the small holes on bottom, i put my pink in the bigger holes on the side and feel around, it feels like the coating on sides are good , maybe the bottom just damaged

i had the same thought , it may add some buoyancy, but i figured my luck it would somehow do some stupid and impossible like build pressure and pop a weaken weld. i wanted to find a way to get a chimney brush or better yet run a dent cleaner hose thru there. then macgyver spraying system for rust eater and undercoat .

Fortunately I live in a salt and winter free area. The only I have fix is some floorboard rot. Yet I have notice rust flake-chucks inside my frame rails. It bothers me. What can I do besides, open a window \in the frame rails? Once its out , best way to water forge proof it? Im ok with unbolting , bot so much cutting.

so a skid plate that never made it into the world. i wonder where the other end would be attached? hoping in the front on protect everything in a rock's reach, like the oil sump . it looks like i going finish what Nissan started. has anyone use this point to build their undercarriage protecttion? pic?

With recently being “laid off”, I have had time to lay under my truck to escape the Texas heat and daydream of ways mess up the garage. Today I was semi-mocking up a underneath rock slider thingy after last time out, a rouge rock played see-saw down there. rude awaking , chucked my t-case,and drive-shaft bells , Dented my last cross-member , muffler and fuel tank “guard”. While down there,I saw these four small holes >>> not the big "Lightening" holes, the small ones toward the t case. it is the member the t-bars are and they are tapped with one of those square “nuts” welded in the cavity, looking oe. What is it for ??? { side question, why nissan like lightening holes??????}

i just replaced everything in the steering and ball joints. everything bought thru amazon (prime and free shipping is a hard thing to pass up ) . I ordered “ASP” idler arm , center link , upper and lower ball joints ….$110.84 to my door. I was worry about the quality but whatever. I never put my lowers (didnt have a impact socket big enough for the big nut on bottom) and just threw them in my bag. A week later, I was at a pull a part , scavenging for some random goodies when I saw a wd21 that someone pull the cv axles out of,so the knuckles was on the ground . The joints looked brand new , the ball was still a lil tight. I started comparing the joints,with the one I had in my bag. They are not the best but I was impressed. The only thing was the idle arm shaft is tiny, but Im just using it while rebuild and mod my old unit. ( alil, where can I find brass bushings for that???) zerks are included.

got it! thanks guys , here a crutchfield link that also helped.http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Support/KnowledgeBase.aspx?ifs=1995%20Nissan%20Pathfinder

I’m replacing all the audio, i want to use the factory wiring. Have the fsm but it does not show once it goes the connector what happens to it , there is not in and out , I have no idea what turns into what. I basically what to bypass the amps .(mine are gone)could I get a pin out , a layout , a sketch ,” white wire to red w/ white stripe” or something . I have figured out what wires go from the amp to the four speakers. side note : am I the only one who think it is dumb, that the front speakers are ran to the rear to the amp then back ?

Before I replaced almost every piece in the steering system , I would hit 55 mph (I think, speedo no worky), everything waddled. I could feel/see it in the wheel. I knew it was time to replace ball joints and/or ends, and I didnt want to hunt down the problem. So , I replaced everything, now, the steering is great , no shakes , no death wobble, no marshmallow steering, but , my rear ….hulas at highway speeds. So that says to me, time for new panhard and trailing bushings. I want to go poly but cant find them. I found moog trailing bushings but not sure they are poly and cant find panhards at all. I want to get this baby rolling , it has a date in northwest texas in october..