stabworthy

"npora better than kia forum" that should be a tagline .

what nismo parts are still around?? me and rob talked about a few months back . i know the centerforce clutch still being made , in fact i read they are being produce this month. even secondhand?

sooo my wd21 is off the dd list , something lunched in the trans or bell housing. since i just replaced the flywheel and clutch the last thing iwant is speed repair that beast. so she is on the toy list , it time to rebuild things (diffs, maybe front lsd, trans, maybe engine , ?vg30dett? ?vg33ett? ) she going to be better faster stonger. THE LIST: CENTERFORCE NISMO CLUTCH DT HEADERS HIGHFLOW CAT 3" LIFT SPACERS ( LOOKING AT YOU MR FLEURYS) LIFTED UCA SWAY AwAY T BARS DIFF DROP BRUSHING RIMS MONSTALINER SHELL HIDDEN SNORKEL the list will grow to the horror of my significant other, and will be a long while before she sees the road but that give time for texas to get out of a drought,

I used only rustolem roll-on rubber chunk and plastic spray on , I would use roll-on on anything that is goes see wear and tear. It's nice and thick, but I let it sit a few day in the sun , baked on nicely. The spray on flaked a little on me , and it was soft a good two days.

oohhhh yea . i forget that type of fuel injection exist in the world. now this makes sense.

I have a tiny mirror epoxyed to the bottom on edge of the ecu , so I don't have to stick my head down in my floorboards.

I wish I had a "power" light on my dash, I would make it light up at half throttle. In fact , my next dumb mod maybe a amber led that lights up under a lead foot.

You cut the wires to diagnose to injector? I pull the spark plugs one at a time

You when all new? Replaced a bad one? I went thru the same , I was replacing as they popped with spares, it was a weakest link thing for a bit .

Bombshells, I have done some research in recent time . But I know there are more knowagleable people on here so chime in and correct me .... in my opinion..... Stay away from "high mileage" oils until needed . They can contain additives to swell seals and used prematurely uses the ability down the road to stop leaks and sometime leading to premature wear. Synthetic isn't "best" in all engines , it has a longer life but it skips pass seal , making leaks worse. It a different "style" of lubrication, it's rolling , instead of a saturating. So I would think there more castoff and wouldn't have that pretty oily metal layer to help early startup and because it responds to impact forces different , things like lifter noise are more audible. So if conventional works , I said stay with it.

Bombshells, I have done some research in recent time . But I know there are more knowagleable people on here so chime in and correct me .... in my opinion..... Stay away from "high mileage" oils until needed . They can contain additives to swell seals and used prematurely uses the ability down the road to stop leaks and sometime leading to premature wear. Synthetic isn't "best" in all engines , it has a longer life but it skips pass seal , making leaks worse. It a different "style" of lubrication, it's rolling , instead of a saturating. So I would think there more castoff and wouldn't have that pretty oily metal layer to help early startup and because it responds to impact forces different , things like lifter noise are more audible. So if conventional works , I said stay with it.

my last two big things i have done is clutch and timing belt , clutch was a pain in a driveway , the biggest tools you need for that is friends and a cool head. the trans is heavy, awkward and everything is in the way of pulling it, but pulling the trans is the hard part by far. once i started working down there i found thing needed to go, replaced alot of bolts (at least $160) , tranny mount, trans oil , tension rod anchor, and my exhaust studs and bolts were all rust , i had to cut my y pipe out of the way (fun). once everything is down , butter. clutch replacement is a pain but with this board, it was doable the timing belt , was 5 day in front of my apartment (it would have been less but i order the wrong belt) its pretty easy job but pay attention cuz there is do under if you dont. the biggest part is the belt placement , makes you ocd real fast , oh and beware of cam bumping. long story short, clutch, let someone cuss at it ( i didnt have the option) timing belt, good learning experience

owning a 20 year old vehicle will improve your mechanic skills or keep a mechanic fed... well

Do you know if the engine is free ? I can bet there will be injector problems. If not now down the road.

yea that why i pull the rail and pushed them out with a drift and mallet

yea what precise said i replaced those Phillips junk with hex , if another injector goes make your life easier i have replaced three injectors , i pull my entire fuel rail off, purged and cleaned the whole thing

lol i did a burnout in friend's caddy to that song, the other night just felt right

just in time to recover financially from mexico

finally to the tee

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i ripped mine out years ago , replacing the oil filter . its on my to do list , anyone know the size the hex on the sender is??

i had the same problem . even with the pivot bolt super loose wouldn't move. i remove the pulley with the belt on it , pull bolt out , greased it , put it back by a few turns .... nothing . figured the car gods said no . I stretched the new belt with pulley to shaft, then had a beer. i left the pivot bolt and tensioner bolt loose to see if it loosens , one trail cruise , two burger runs and one spirited run to grocery store , no movement.

i seached and found little , so if there are threads poke me the right direction. i have heard of some of you using quest and maxima alternators , i have questions. what is required for the quest to swap? is the maxima , just a pulley swap? how to? pics? what are the year ranges on both? is there anything i need to know before i go to the junkyard?

i had a few similar things a few years back , case 1:highway speed , hit uneven pavement , truck lost power. pull to side , surged for a bit then stall , wouldnt start = distributor cap popped loose case 2: in BFE , pull in for gas , when to take off, make it 10 yards , rpm drop and jump to 2000 a few times,died, started but wanted to die have to give to run = bad wire at one of the two connector battery ( the bottom one below the headlight power) probably no help, but proof small things make big panic moments.