stabworthy

is there an advantage for one or other ? i have two brand new boots , so time to go poly all round . which leads me my next question , is there a poly boots for the center link?

exhaust leak at the manifold? that what mine is.

this should work http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-89-Nissan-Pathfinder-VG30E-3-0L-Engine-Kit-NEKVG30-/140630088295?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20be34da67 everything else i found is a full kit with new pistons and stuff

this sounds alot like my current project

opps they dont have 87, but it should be the same as like 94 .

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html here you go. this is part of the newbie care packet , welcome and enjoy.

just saying

anti seize and locker wont hold up to the heat, i know i thought the same thought.

i say replace alt belt and radi , and make sure you didnt pop something else by overheating her.

well...15x 8 offset-27 mm

i looked i cant find it via interwebs or this forum, what is the offset of the stock chrome 6 spoke rims? i know the lego wheel are 20mm offset . and... how much problem would go to -27mm ?

+3 crank them tbars on front , coil spacers on rear . and pray to whatever you believe in. she will be 3 inch taller but you will be running raw

i have some trails like 3 blocks from home , and live in a populated area but nothing that cool , its mostly small slabs from abandoned boy scout camp and transient camps.

+1 for gtx

"npora better than kia forum" that should be a tagline .

what nismo parts are still around?? me and rob talked about a few months back . i know the centerforce clutch still being made , in fact i read they are being produce this month. even secondhand?

sooo my wd21 is off the dd list , something lunched in the trans or bell housing. since i just replaced the flywheel and clutch the last thing iwant is speed repair that beast. so she is on the toy list , it time to rebuild things (diffs, maybe front lsd, trans, maybe engine , ?vg30dett? ?vg33ett? ) she going to be better faster stonger. THE LIST: CENTERFORCE NISMO CLUTCH DT HEADERS HIGHFLOW CAT 3" LIFT SPACERS ( LOOKING AT YOU MR FLEURYS) LIFTED UCA SWAY AwAY T BARS DIFF DROP BRUSHING RIMS MONSTALINER SHELL HIDDEN SNORKEL the list will grow to the horror of my significant other, and will be a long while before she sees the road but that give time for texas to get out of a drought,

I used only rustolem roll-on rubber chunk and plastic spray on , I would use roll-on on anything that is goes see wear and tear. It's nice and thick, but I let it sit a few day in the sun , baked on nicely. The spray on flaked a little on me , and it was soft a good two days.

oohhhh yea . i forget that type of fuel injection exist in the world. now this makes sense.

I have a tiny mirror epoxyed to the bottom on edge of the ecu , so I don't have to stick my head down in my floorboards.

You cut the wires to diagnose to injector? I pull the spark plugs one at a time

You when all new? Replaced a bad one? I went thru the same , I was replacing as they popped with spares, it was a weakest link thing for a bit .

Bombshells, I have done some research in recent time . But I know there are more knowagleable people on here so chime in and correct me .... in my opinion..... Stay away from "high mileage" oils until needed . They can contain additives to swell seals and used prematurely uses the ability down the road to stop leaks and sometime leading to premature wear. Synthetic isn't "best" in all engines , it has a longer life but it skips pass seal , making leaks worse. It a different "style" of lubrication, it's rolling , instead of a saturating. So I would think there more castoff and wouldn't have that pretty oily metal layer to help early startup and because it responds to impact forces different , things like lifter noise are more audible. So if conventional works , I said stay with it.

Bombshells, I have done some research in recent time . But I know there are more knowagleable people on here so chime in and correct me .... in my opinion..... Stay away from "high mileage" oils until needed . They can contain additives to swell seals and used prematurely uses the ability down the road to stop leaks and sometime leading to premature wear. Synthetic isn't "best" in all engines , it has a longer life but it skips pass seal , making leaks worse. It a different "style" of lubrication, it's rolling , instead of a saturating. So I would think there more castoff and wouldn't have that pretty oily metal layer to help early startup and because it responds to impact forces different , things like lifter noise are more audible. So if conventional works , I said stay with it.

my last two big things i have done is clutch and timing belt , clutch was a pain in a driveway , the biggest tools you need for that is friends and a cool head. the trans is heavy, awkward and everything is in the way of pulling it, but pulling the trans is the hard part by far. once i started working down there i found thing needed to go, replaced alot of bolts (at least $160) , tranny mount, trans oil , tension rod anchor, and my exhaust studs and bolts were all rust , i had to cut my y pipe out of the way (fun). once everything is down , butter. clutch replacement is a pain but with this board, it was doable the timing belt , was 5 day in front of my apartment (it would have been less but i order the wrong belt) its pretty easy job but pay attention cuz there is do under if you dont. the biggest part is the belt placement , makes you ocd real fast , oh and beware of cam bumping. long story short, clutch, let someone cuss at it ( i didnt have the option) timing belt, good learning experience